Farewell to Malawi and Zambia "This is the worst road we've been on in Africa!" Given that my eyeballs, teeth and cojones were rattling in synch with the Landrover, I wasn't about to argue with Angela. We were on a 17 kilometre stretch of gravel interspersed with potholes and gullies that passed as the road to Cape Maclear, Lake Malawi National Park. Despite driving in diff lock and second gear, we fishtailed, bounced and rattled all the way to Chemb...

Rivers of Zambia "Don't worry, you'll each have a River Guide in your canoe" The words of Jenny, the manager of Mvuu Lodge and campsite were intended to re-assure Angela, who was having second thoughts about the previous night's bravado of deciding to do a sunset canoe trip on the Zambezi River. As we paddled downstream it struck me that the only value of the river guide who sat in the rear of my Canadian canoe was (a) he was doing most of the paddli...

Zambia? You must be Kwachas! "Why don't we just stand here and hand money out?" Angela's somewhat sarcastic comment to the Zambian Customs official fortunately didn't register! It was an understandable reaction to a two-hour frenzy of form filling and wallet emptying in a ramshackle collection of buildings that pass as the Shesheke border crossing from Namibia to Zambia. In two hours we parted with £138 to get ourselves and our car in to Zambia for ...