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Rainbow Beach is one of two places (the other being Hervey Bay) that you can get to Fraser Island from. We had made sure to get a Fraser trip into our itinerary on the recommendation of others.
We arrived at Dingos in Rainbow Beach and spent a day getting to know the area. There's a massive beach here but swimming looks deadly in the enormous waves. The weather situation had improved dramatically from the past week though so we weren't deterred from giving it a try. On our first evening we literally stumbled across an enormous sand dune (actually called a sandblow) which is the local landmark.
The following morning, we had to get up early to go on a dolphin cruise. The small boat took us round the corner to Tin Can Bay where we moored up and jumped off to find two dolphins eagerly awaiting their breakfast. I have to admit that when I heard we had a dolphin cruise included in our package, I was expecting it to be out at sea. The leaflet also said we could get in with the dolphins but this just meant stand in the water (which you sort of have to do) to feed the dolphins. In one way though, it was probably a good thing since we saw thousands of jellyfish in the water en route. The dolphins were pretty cool and we managed to get a video of Pip feeding one (check out the video).
That afternoon we set off on a walk up the sandblow, still feeling the effect of the quadbiking on our legs. It took about 30/40 mins to get to the top but the views were totally worth it. Rather than a dune, a sand blow is more like a miniture desert blown up from the beach by strong winds. This one is called Carlo Sandblow, named by Captain Cook after one of his crew when he first came across it.
On Friday night, we had a briefing about what to expect on Fraser Island and got a chance to get to know the team we would be driving and camping with over the next 3 days / 2 nights. We were so lucky to have been put with a fantastic group of people that we immediately got on with. There were eight of us in total, three Swedes, two German, a Colombian and us of course.
Fraser Island is the world's largest sand island so it may seem weird that someone who hates sand would want to go there, but we were told it is a staple ingredient in any backpacker's trip down the east coast. It also contains more than its fair share of impressive lakes, rainforests and other natural features (including wild dingos).
Saturday morning brought free pancakes and a nice storm to enjoy whilst packing the 4x4 convoy. Fortunately, it didn't persist for too long and by the time we were all in the car (typical!) the sun came out to cheer us up. I took first drive of the 4x4 from the hostel in Rainbow Beach to our campsite on Fraser. Driving a four wheel drive is pretty fun, especially along the sand.
We set up camp behind the dunes next to the beach and went driving onwards to Lake McKenzie, probably Fraser's most scenic and popular spot. The weather started off a bit iffy but the sun came out eventually, but in a stroke of luck this kept the crowds away to give us almost exclusive enjoyment of the lake.
The lake, like most on the island, is a perched lake, which means the only water supply to the lake is rain water. There are no streams or springs which feed the lake. As a result, the water is perfectly clear and drinkable and there are no currents or disturbances in the water. Add to this the fact that it is of course surrounded by soft sand and it makes a pretty amazing spot to relax. Think of a perfect beach with flat still sea which is perfectly clear and not salty!
Byron, our guide, then rounded us up and took us into the heart of the rainforest to see the world's second purest water source. This stream takes 80 years for the water to filter through from the top of the mountain and the ferns surrounding it were over 2000 years old.
That night we cooked our food within our groups on a little gas stove (steak - yum!) and washed up afterwards in the sea using some sand to scrub the dirt off.
Sleeping in the tent that night was less than comfortable due to the lack of roll mat and the hole in the tent which created a nice puddle for our feet. At least we didn't suffer the same fate as others we had spoken to. Against better advice, they had kept small items of food like sweets in their tents only to have them sniffed out by dingos and their tents and bags ripped apart.
The next morning, instead of finding the nearest shower, Pip drove us to Eli Creek, a beautiful freshwater stream which runs onto the beach. You can float down the creek in rubber rings but we managed to just lie down and let the current take us.
One of the other groups' guide played a nasty (but hilarious) trick on them by pulling a fake snake through the water on an invisible fishing line. We've never seen so many people move so fast! We would have found it even funnier had we not just seen a real one cross the creek in front of us.
Although we didn't really want to leave, we headed further north along the east coast of the island to the wreck of the SS Mohino, apparently second in size to the Titanic in its day. After its use as a hospital ship and cruise liner, it was sold to the Japanese for scrap, but whilst towing it back to Japan, they hit a cyclone and had to cut it loose. Fraser Island has been its home ever since.
After copious photos and chasing a dingo out of our car, we carried on further to Indian Head. Named by, you guessed it, Captain Cook, after he saw a group of curious aboriginals on the headland whilst sailing past. We climbed to the top and from here spotted manta rays, sea turtles and dolphins but unfortunately no tiger sharks.
A short but bouncy drive along, we came to Champagne Pools, this time a salt water swimming spot. These are two large rock pools which fill with frothy water every time the waves splash over their protective rocks, hence the name. Incidentally, this is the only bit of seawater we were allowed to swim in due to the large population of tiger sharks patrolling the island.
Of course, now being covered in salt meant we had to make another stop off at Eli Creek again to scrub down... what a shame. By this time a storm was brewing though so we didn't stay long.
We got back to the camp and hunkered down for the night without drinking any alcohol whatsoever... Some groups chickened out by heading to a nice dry hostel, but, spurred on by the stubbornness of our guide, we endured the rain and wind, ignoring the pond in our tent once more.
The sun was out the next morning and with the though of a shower and comfy bed awaiting us on the mainland at the back of our mind, we packed quickly and set off for our last destination on the island.
We walked for about 40 mins through the rainforest to reach the beautiful Lake Wabby, another perched lake. This one, however, is a nice green shade and home to some large catfish. Three quarters of it is surrounded by rainforest and the rest by an enormous sandblow, even larger than Carlo sandblow.
We left without suncream under overcast skies and definitely regretted this by the time we reached the lake. Though, as it happened, everyone else had done the same and most of us (human people - not Pip) ended up a nice pink shade by the time we had to trek back.
It was a relief not to eat, sleep and breathe sand that night and we both passed out before our heads touched the pillow.
It was a real shame to separate from the rest of our team the next morning but we made plans to meet up at various points further down the coast. The Swedish couple even booked into the same hostel as us in the next place, Noosa.
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