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We did it!!!
Yes we are proud to report that we have successfully hiked to Everest Base Camp and - importantly - we're now back safe and sound.
It was a glorious 18 day hike in the Himalayas along mountain passes, through villages, past yaks and load carrying Tibetan traders, higher and higher to our goal: Everest (well base camp at least).
We'd prepared for the trip well investing in matching 'North Fake' outfits in Kathmandu, and purchasing sleeping bags that claimed to work at minus 20 degrees (lies all lies). Each night we would sleep in teahouses: a basic room with a basic meal - if we see much more porridge, rice and potatoes it may be too soon.
We're not going to lie to you it was really tough. In fact we agreed that it was possibly the toughest thing either of us had ever done both physically and mentally - tougher even than the marathon. Physically hard because that long walking for 6-7 hours a day really does take it out of you - it was not uncommon to be in bed at 7.30pm. To make things even more difficult most of the journey was at altitude where - because of the lower concentration of oxygen in the air - everything is harder. To take in more air and pump the blood round your body the lungs and heart have to work twice as hard, breathing can be painful and walking slows to snail's pace. To make things worse it is difficult to sleep, just as you doze off your body snaps itself forward in a big gasp for air - so on top of the extensive exercise you are suffering from lack of sleep.
This is where the mental challenge comes in. In preparation for the trek you've read an awful lot about Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), you know what the symptoms are and it becomes a real argument with your brain to avoid convincing yourself that you are suffering and that the end is nigh. Paranoia was one of the biggest challenges, which isn't helped by the chat among your fellow hikers: "did you hear about the girl who died" "what medication are you on" "I hear the air is particularly thin this year" - it all adds to the paranoia.
The other challenge of altitude - and one that you hear surprisingly little about - is that for some reason you need to use the bathroom a lot. This wouldn't be a problem if the nearest toilet wasn't a hole in the ground, outside and 50 meters down the mountainside. We are both now experts at leaping up in the middle of the night grabbing a torch, throwing on thermals, jumpers, jacket, hats and gloves, tying walking boots and dashing off down the hill (dodging the local yak of course), before returning to our North Fake sleeping bags for another bout of non-sleep (torture!).
What made the trip possible though was our very own Sherpa. Trusty Madan Thapa was an absolute legend. He not only carried our bags and guided the way but would also defend us from yaks and yetis (well ok not the later but we did see a yeti skull in a monastery). He also monitored us for headaches and other AMS symptoms and bought us cups of tea in bed! At one stage he even offered to do our dirty washing but after days of hiking no one deserves that. Honestly every home should have a Sherpa and we seriously considered squishing him into our rucksack and bringing him back to Blighty!
With Madan leading us on we pushed on to base camp - Hillary and Tenzing would have been proud - and on the 12th day of our trek we reached our personal summit. The thing about Everest though is that for something really quite big, it's surprisingly elusive. Often hiding behind closer peaks then offering you a tantalizing glimpse when you least expect it. In fact from Base Camp you can't actually see the peak so … the next day … we upped the ante and climbed even higher. The small peak of Kala Pattar at 5,549 meters being our maximum height for maximum effort and maximum reward / man-points. At this height there is less than 50% of the oxygen that you get at sea level. Lungs hurt, heads throb and even a Twix bar or jelly baby provides little rest bite. Sherpa Edgar overcame this trauma by using the traditional method of 'Ipod' and dance music to drive herself forward. Sherpa Canning fought on with the voices in his tormented head!
The views of Everest and the surrounding peaks were immense and the sense of achievement palatable but as all adventures know getting there is only half the battle, it's not a success until everyone is home safely. So the long trek down began and it soon became apparent that the sleepless nights had taken their toll on Polly. Flu kicked in meaning a quick decent was called for (we couldn't take the risk it was AMS). A scary moment indeed especially when you realize that you're down to your last Ibopufen and the nearest retailer of drugs and medication is a three days walk away. Not to worry though we're all safe and well - it's amazing what decent sleep and rest can do.
The way down, like the way up, was a glorious walk buoyed by the sense of achievement. We met some great characters everyone greeting each other with a cheerful "Namaste" (except the French who are slightly surly hikers - and would therefore be tormented by a barrage of "Namaste, hello, strasviture, Gutentag, Bonjour, Kinichwah, 'Olla, sianbainou" from Canning and Edgar). Apart from teasing the French a highlight for both of us was meeting a Sherpa who had climbed Everest 11 times (7 from Nepal side 4 from Tibet) maybe we'll try that next year?
Both fully recovered we now feel able to bask in the glory. We did it: 18 days without alcohol what an achievement. Now back in Kathmandu we feel entitled to relax and celebrate.
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