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My memory of the last few days is questionable, 8% lager and whiskey had a lot to do with it.
I wrenched myself out of bed for the 5:30am boat ride, quite an achievement for somebody who savours every last second in bed. We passed a school of Brahmin children out for early morning mediation, bald heads sat regimental across the ghat wearing bright orange robes, their master instigating the rituals. A wonderfully interesting spectacle, one difficult to photograph well. We had a quick chai with Baba, a holy man who resides on the banks of the Ganges then boarded the small wooden row-boat like a pair of zombies from the walking dead!
It's a completely different place at this time of day, the steps a gentle ripple of local people washing their clothes in the questionable Ganges water, then hanging them on lines in the awakening sun. The boat ride was uneventful, no bodies, no lunatics, not many other tourists so it was nice to float around at a steady pace. It was slightly overcast so no dynamic colourful skies but very pleasant regardless.
We relaxed after our early start and made the most of the weather by sitting out on the terrace and chatting with a few new arrivals. A group of four from the UK, I'v given up on names now!
On the evening myself, Callum and Francisco from Portugal got a rickshaw to a "nice restaurant with beer" It was a nice evening and we picked at vegetable pakoras and a flavoursome potato dish which was rather spicy! Washed down nicely with a couple of kingfisher beers, we didn't fancy a mad one, but there's always tomorrow!
The next day I arose late, missing breakfast, which was fine. My sleeping pattern is all over the shop and dictated mainly by how hot and uncomfortable I am. Myself and Callum went to our favoured Kerala Cafe for food and made a plan for the day. A trip to the train station to book his train so the days formalities were dealt with then off to have some fun!
On our return from the station we 'coincidently' approached the bar visited the previous night! "This will do, we will get out here" - we both smirked like naughty school children, both knowing full well our intentions!
"Kingfisher strong please, the 8% s***" the game was clearly on, both in the mood for a good skinful. We attempted to leave no less than three times, even paying for the bill at one point before ordering "just one more" - then finishing off with a whiskey!
Completely losing track of time we literally stumbled out of the place and hopped in a rickshaw! From then on I cannot really remember much, I know at one point I went solo with £500 to a remote location to change my funds to rupees and ended up in some random house full of shady looking characters. Probably not my wisest of ideas, but it was the whiskey.
We met the group of four from earlier who had taken a trip to Blue Lassi and had indulged bravely in a 'Bang Lassi' - Google it! They were high as a kite and without the ability to speak, very much like myself! I fumbled around for a while and then collapsed in my pit! It was a strange night, Callum had popped a couple of Valium to help get a better nights sleep, an acquisition from his travels in South East Asia. Not a good concoction with virtually pure vodka and lager. He proceeded to freak the whole of the 16 bed dorm out by shouting sporadically, sleep walking, and being generally mental, of course he remembered nothing in the morning! - Never mix your uppers with your downers kids!
The next day was a right off, spent in bed, recovering from a heavy night in this heat is incredibly difficult! We groaned and grunted throughout the day and drowned in self pity. Never again!
The last full day in the wonderful Varanasi started with a leisurely stroll to the famous Ganges Ghats. Joined by Callum, Tom from the Netherlands and JoJo from Hong Kong. The river level had raised considerably, suggesting heavy rains in the mountains. It looked very different and the currents were clearly running very fast! At one point during our walk we had to scale a slanted wall as the steps had been cut off, keeping up a momentum as to not slip or fall into the flowing sespitt! As wonderful as the Ganges is, I would not want to step foot in it!
We lounged for an hour or so exchanging banter with a local boy trying to sell us floating candles for good Karma. I explained my karma was f***ed anyway so he could kindly keep it and I would keep my 30 rupees. During our walk down the darkened alleyway near the burning ghat we took an interest in loud music blurting out from behind a pile of logs used in the cremations. We could see equally inquisitive faces peering back who eventually invited us in to a small courtyard area.
In India there is a historical system of cast. Like in England we have working class, middle class etc. In India the very bottom class are called 'The Untouchables' they have been in the past treated as slaves, made to do jobs no other would do. The lowest of the low. Whilst Ghandi tried to abolish the cast system, there is still strong evidence of times gone by, no less than in these cremation grounds. 'The untouchables' chop, organise and carry the wood for the ceremonies. They live right behind the burning ghat in squalid confined conditions, showered in dirt, a hotbed of filth and inevitably disease!
We entered their small world, much to their surprise and started shaking hands with everybody. Something that would have been extremely taboo just 30 years ago. We started dancing with the more confident children and a couple of older guys. Before we knew it many more peering eyes emerged from the darkness, 50 or 60 huddled round, all singing and smiling. It was hilarious, I looked a complete plonker. But this is India, this is real India! We said our goodbyes, I may revisit them tomorrow. Such characters, beaming smiles, living in conditions not fit for a dog but have all the time in the world for a stranger to enter their home unannounced, humbling and something to consider and reflect upon.
I said my goodbyes to Callum this evening, somebody I have a lot of time for. He shares very similar opinions to mine, appreciates similar things so maybe we will meet up back in the UK, the choice of Birmingham and Glasgow is bloody uninspiring though! Maybe Liverpool will be a happy medium.
Tomorrow I venture on towards the glorious Himalayas! I'm anxious to get there now, a daunting 24hour journey awaits me but it should be worth it! On to natural beauty and views, I can't wait! I will miss Varanasi, it's a whirlwind of madness, an emotional test and challenge to the conventional!
I suspect my blogging will slow from now on, the pace of my adventures will inevitably slow although I will try and document all experiences! I quite fancy white water rafting in the canyons and a few other activities so there should be enough to keep me entertained!
For now my hectic backpacking is nearly over, next challenge is to teach English to many deprived children, should be a challenge! Wish me luck
Disclaimer; I'm fecking shattered so excuse any punctual cock-ups until I have time to check through!
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