The pollution has dropped to 393, since our arrival in Xi'an. That number still falls in the "severely polluted" realm, but doesn't have the nuclear fall-out look the city had the night we arrived. We are able to breathe (sort of) and have not let it stop us from seeing the sights. Our first day here we aggressively rode bikes along the historic city wall. While it was fun to go on tandem bikes with the kids, riding in the smog about put me over the edge. We can't even say we got a good view of the city, because nothing was visible! So we did what we do when we are feeling a little deflated and we headed to the nearest 5-star hotel for drinks and dinner. The kids were very excited because there was a chocolate fountain for dessert.

Also while in Xi'an we visited the Muslim District, a Buddhist pagoda, and a drum tower at the center of the city to see a performance. We may have used feminine hygiene products for face-masks because we can't figure out what was so hilarious that a group of girls on the corner had to whisper and laugh at us when we came out of the shop with our masks. Those went promptly in the trash and we bought new ones. We went to a dumpling banquet and watched a show with dancing and drumming and other performances representing the Tang Dynasty. We visited an archeological site from a village ruled by women that was 6,000 years old. The museum contained a relic that was worshipped and is said to represent the male anatomy. I think interpreting a 6,000-year old rock as a phallic symbol for worship by a female ruling society is a stretch. Anthony fully believed the tale and wanted to see if the gift shop had a replica to set up in the yard at home. Oh yeah - A&A also managed to fit in 7 episodes of Breaking Bad.

Yesterday we got to the big event, the terracotta warriors. The effect when you walk into the pits is overwhelming. The sheer numbers of soldiers are staggering, the detail and precision with which they were created is unreal and to think that it all was made over 2,000 years ago makes it all the more impressive. The army was created to protect Emperor Qin Shi Huang, the first Chinese Emperor, in the afterlife. An estimated 8,000 soldiers, 130 chariots and almost 700 horses were buried with him in 210 BC, but only a fraction have been unearthed. Each soldier is life-size and has individual facial features. The army is arranged in precise military formation. It is estimated that 700,000 workers constructed the army over a 38-year period. The location of the burial site had to be an absolute secret. Overthrowing a dynasty in China begins by first destroying the burial place of the family. Therefore when Emperor Qin died all of the workers who contributed to the construction of his burial site, needed to be killed. The Emperor's military at the time followed instructions and buried all of the workers alive in the entryways of the pits. A farmer digging a well in 1974 discovered the clay figures. Today he is a national hero. We met him at the museum entrance where he signs books. The tomb that holds the Emperor himself has yet to be opened because it is not currently possible to protect the full area.

I was especially excited and moved by being able to see the site because it was on my dad's bucket list and he never made it here before he passed away. My dad was a real history buff. His favorite US topics were The Civil War and the history of the brewery industry, about which he wrote a book (also on his bucket list). But the one item outside of the US that really captured his interest was the terracotta warriors. If he were still around I have no doubt that he would have met us in Xi'an this week. I have been able to imagine him everywhere with us, with the exception of biking the wall. No way would the Hankster have biked 6 ½ miles in the smog. In fact if we had suggested it I think his response would have been, "Are you shi**ing me?" But seeing the army would have given him so much joy. He would have showed up in Xi'an with so much knowledge already consumed on the topic that he probably could have led a tour group. I imagine him up before everyone, having coffee in the dining room of the hotel and chatting up anyone else who is here to fulfill the dream of seeing the army. I don't know how he would do with the food, the traffic, the smog, the onslaught of people, the photos of Slick Willy everywhere (as the only US President ever to visit) etc., etc., but he would have loved the archeological site. My week was extra special knowing that my dad had been very intrigued with the things I was seeing and doing. I thought about him a lot and he felt close.

Even though the idea of a bucket list is entirely your own, I suggest my sisters check off one of the other items that Dad had on his as a way to keep him close. So Sue and Kathy I had Mom look up some real gems for you guys. How about taking the family to visit the National Atomic Museum in Albuquerque, NM, which would be lovely in summer or attend the Blue & Gray beer can trade session in Pennsylvania in early February? Other great choices include writing an article on the German Tyrolean Alps or researching the Dr. Swekosky papers at the Missouri Historical Society. Kath - you wouldn't even have to leave town for that one. An absolute must!

Tomorrow we leave Xi'an behind and head to the equally smoggy, Beijing. We have decided to take the overnight train. We hope this is a great experience, as we have not yet done any overland travel in Asia. We promised the girls lots of card games and family fun, but I am dying to pop the headphones in and see what kind of trouble Walter White can stir up.

Amy