An early rise to catch the 10 hour train to Agra. Worst thing is, we were in sleeper class, with no ac! Plus we both had taken immodium the night before! Sleeper class has like triple bunks, with 8 beds per pod, and we were on the top bunks. Oh my gosh. So stuffy. And I felt sick for the whole 10 hours. Just over halfway through, a man came on selling dairy milk, woo, saviour! And finally some mango juice, rather than chai! We made it to Agra, and then had an hour and a half wait for our next train. I got chased by a child for my Miranda (Pepsi's version of fanta). Our one hour journey to Bharatpur was luxury compared to the previous train - ac, pillows, blankets, and curtains! We took an extortionate cycle rickshaw for 5km to our hotel. The owner was very friendly, and a keen wildlife photographer. We had some home-cooked food and listened to the group of men next to us talking about cameras. We later found out that they were famous photographers and had produced for the bbc about tigers! They were here to film the Sarus crane for another production. Their room was filled with equipment, tripods etc. We arranged a cycle rickshaw for the following morning to take us around the national park bird sanctuary, a world heritage site with over 370 varieties of native and migratory birds. Up at dawn, we headed to keoladeo national park, and after paying the entry fee (8x as much for a foreigner), we were handed a pair of binoculars and spotted our first bird, the peacock. We went round for 7 hours, through the wetlands, and saw birds, butterflies, lizards, sambar deer and antelope. Parakeets, marsh harriers, two types of kingfisher, storks, ibis, the rare sarus crane (only around 4 breeding pairs here), the tiger dentist/tree pie, shakri, scops owl, cranes, bee-eaters, drongo, partridge, water hen, soft-shelled turtles and catfish. The rickshaw driver doubles as a guide and has the most amazing vision/knowledge/ability to spot anything. Unfortunately he also had the ability to demand a huge tip, and we ended up paying double the rate. Feeling low, we went back to our hotel and scoffed a melted Freddo.