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May 18th
Overslept, the room was very dark and warm due to leaving the heating on high to try and dry the wet clothes from yesterday. Decided to take advantage of the excellent shower and wash my hair , turned out to be good choice as the guide was saying the next few days we are in home stay and smaller hotels with back to a random shower head over the toilet and sink the bathroom closet.
Again had a light breakfast as I don't want to overwhelm my stomach again.
Caught taxis to the bus station, driver were very frustrating as they were trying to go slow so we would miss the bus and then have to use them to get to the monastery. Lucky we made it just in time to get the local bus. Small bus and once we got on it was full. Travelled out of town on a very modern highway , again evidence of the progress of the country. The high ran out after about 30 mins and we were back to a smaller road. But you see that construction was continuing in the distance. Travelled through rural Bulgaria, which still appears to maintain much of it's traditional culture. The paddocks are much larger though than Romania.
You also notice as you drive that conquering Bulgaria would have been difficult. There are many hills and valleys which make for natural defensive structures.
After about 3 hours on the bus we arrived at the Rila Monastery.The bus was great it dropped you right the front door. The monastery is home to many monks and many people also make special pilgrimages up the mountain walking to give thanks and pray for various things. The monastery has a central courtyard in which there is the tower and main cathedral. Around the outside is a 3 to 4 story building in which the monks live and were closed to the public. The inside of the main cathedral was amazing the paintings and gold gilt and chandlers and carved wooden chairs and the domes of the ceiling. It was very moving to be inside... And I took some time inside to just admire the building.
After taking the time to try and look at all the detail of the buildings I heading just outside and found some very tasty donuts. They were small size and very light dough covered in chocolate sauce and most important hot! The weather has turned very cold over the last few days... Which has made it perfect tea drinking weather and Bulgarians do a great cup of herbal tea. I haven't quiet worked out what the blend but it always come hot and with honey and lemon ( no I haven't converted I leave the honey on the side and just enjoy it with lemon)
After the refreshments and quick look around the seven or so shops that are found both inside and outside the monastery was time to get on the bus to head towards our home stay for the night.
Was a slow drive through beautiful mountain ranges. Till we arrived at
Gorno draglishte. We were greeted by our hosts and her cute baby boy. Were also informed that due to pipe works no water was available till later in the evening.
We set out walking around this small village and came across the pipe works that were going on. They had dug up a large stretch of road and seem to be laying new pipes at a fairly slow rate. We continued on our walk towards the towns washing machine. Water from the creek was directed into a narrow pipe which caused it to enter with force into a large wooden barrel. The clothes would then be thorn around in the barrel with water exiting via slits on the lower side of one half.
Came across a local farmer that was very proud of his donkey and was excited to show us.
Made our way to the local supermarket were they still have an old large scale and a very friendly lady behind behind the counter.
Then it was onto the local pub. Joined some older locals that were there drinking and had been for some time I think. The guy sitting next to me was very affection trying to sneak a kiss but left before he had a chance. He had no teeth left from drinking the highly alcoholic drink served here I guess.
Headed back to the main guest house for dinner. It was a lovely meal of a pumpkin and filo pastry baked, potato in a herbed cream sauce, what I thought was mushroom but has chicken kidneys and livers in a gravy still ate it, vegetable in a tomato base and some of the most delicious fresh baked rolls. They were crispy oiled on the outside and soft and warm on the inside... So yummy.
After dinner two older ladies appeared in traditional clothing. They sang for us and then we all got to dress up in traditional clothing. There was dancing and lots of photos together... It was heaps of fun. The ladies were so nice and friendly but told me my hands and arms were too cold and that I needed to drink more of the schnapps (very high alcohol content) in order to keep warm. Some suggestions were also made that if I stayed in the village they would be able to find me a husband.
After all the singing and dancing they had to leave for bed and we called it a night soon afterwards.
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