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Day 47: Ihla Grande
We decided to cut our losses with Paraty and try to get the most out of our next destination: Ihla Grande. We needed to get a bus up the coast and from there a ferry to the island, all of which would take about three hours. But ferrys were limited so we needed to time it carefully. We were up and out by 8:10am, walking the short distance to the bus station (felt a lot longer with those heavy bags).
More of the same communication difficulties in trying to find information about our bus, when a couple of Dutch guys told us they were waiting for the same one. We waited together, the typical dry Dutch humour not exactly making for the warmest of company. We hopped on the busy bus to Angra dos Reis, and 2 hours later, we were running to the port - we had just made it on time! We met Fede and the gang there and joined them on the boat (Angra Flex). A relaxing 50 minutes admiring the calm, green sparkling waters, and drawing ever near the tree covered island, we'd arrived.
With our bags on our backs once more, we made our journey to our hostel, which was at the end of the beach. Walking along the sand, the sea gently lapping, and countless little fishing boats tethered and bobbing on the shore, it really felt like paradise.
We threw down our bags, too early to check in, changed into our beach gear and headed out for an early lunch.
There on the beach, shaded by tall palm trees we found a gorgeous beach cafe/bar/restaurant: Café do Mar. A beautiful fresh fish lunch (+ caipi), looking out to sea - heaven.
We wanted to explore this beautiful island, so after we'd checked into our room, we headed to see the beaches that we could reach before dark. We trekked through the jungle along a narrow path, until we reached the first small, but pretty beach. A few more paths and a few more beaches, until we came to an impasse. The jungle path ran into somebody's home. We had two options. Wade across the now submerged beach below or buy a drink in this mans home and use the path! We went with the latter. We passed through the rickety wooden gate and were greeted by a small group of old men chilling out on the terrace, a shoddy roof covering them and a dirty table and cool box beside. Filthy garden furniture was set out for us (I preferred to sit on the wall overlooking the sea) and Lynn was served a massive can of beer, and I a bottle of water. Not keen to hang around Lynn necked what she could and after a sufficiently polite amount of time had passed, we legged it. Another tiny beach or two later and we arrived on the last beach, greeted by soothing live music from a singer playing a guitar in the little bar there.
The oh-so-friendly Dutch guys were already on the beach (this was to be a recurring, awkward pattern) so I called out, "Howerya lads!" - it was a tiny beach. Wasn't as if we could pretend we hadn't seen each other!
Laid on the sand in the fading sunlight, we enjoyed our first taste of island life. A taxi-boat man offered to take us home, the done thing apparently, so when we'd had enough, we waded to the boat and he took us back around the Island to where we'd started. A Spanish/Portuguese conversation ensued and I discovered his name was Wellington and he was keen to get us to take an island tour with him the next day. Not wanting to give Wellington any reason not to bring us home safely I said we'd think about it, that we hadn't yet decided what we were doing yet, thinking that I'd done enough to fob him off. We got off the boat, paid our fare and parted ways. But living on an island, you never really part ways fully...
Back in our room, we found two big, swarthy men dozing in the bottom of our bunks. Would have been slightly less uncomfortable had I not been just wearing a bikini... anyway, we made some small talk and they turned out to be two very nice, Brazilians called Fabio and Raul.
We got ready for the evening and made our way across the beach, having to wade through an inlet that had been filled by the rising tide. In the town (I say town, I really mean the couple of streets with shops and restaurants), we investigated the option of doing the night hike: having to get up at 2am and climb through the jungle in the dark, up Papagayo in time to watch the sunrise. We decided to mull it over while we had dinner.
Back to Cafe do Mar which was having a barbecue. Sitting out front we're our Dutch friends. Hooray. Now we really looked like we were following them! A polite hello before finding our own table. A big drum barbecue was set up by the bar, and laid out in front, a table filled with amazing looking food, ready for grilling. Fresh fish, shrimp skewers, big steaks - so much choice! I chose a little from column A, a little from column B. As we waited for our food, Wellington, the boat taxi driver walked passed and waved at us. Thinking he'd keep walking, we waved back, but he must have taken it a step an invitation to sit with us. For the entire duration of our meal. It was so painful. Our drinks arrived, he stayed. Our food arrived, he stayed (now rolling a joint). We started speaking (terrible) Irish, now at a point of desperation, and he still didn't get the message. Watching us eat the whole time. It would've been a really enjoyable meal otherwise! In a last ditch attempt to get rid of him, I discretely pleaded with the waiter to do something when I went to the toilet. Thankfully, Fede had already come to our rescue! I don't know what he did but he was gone! We were now joined by the G-tour. Finally! In welcome company! The evening had been saved.
After an unsuccessful hunt for post dinner Tapicoa pancakes, we headed home. No sign of our roommates we climbed into bed. The air was hot and still, too warm for sleep, and I was still suffering from Paraty when sand flies, at least 15 feasted on my skin, leaving me covered in horrible, itchy, hot welts. Sleeping was hard. And then Fabio and Raul returned. Loudly talking and laughing, which was tolerable. But then the snoring started. And didn't stop. Needless to say, I barely slept a wink. I did think of chucking my pillow at them. Instead, i periodically coughed loudly. Fat lot of good it did. If I wasn't so sleepy, I would've gotten up to give them a kick. And this is why I don't stay in dorms.
Accommodation: Che Lagarto
Weather: overcast then sunny and burning hot; clammy evening
- comments
Lynn Rusk Love this post so much! Howerya lads!! So many awkward encounters on Ilha Grande!