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Day 14,18 July 2012, Kande Beach to Chitimba Beach via the market of Msuzu (pictured) - A mere 250 kms and 4 odd hours on the road today. En route we stocked up on Malawi Kwachas to pay for our postcard and stamp vice. Also our local brandy vice. Seems to be evaporating! In Msuzu our camp chef Godfrey needed to top up supplies - we were only allowed to follow him to the local market at a discreet distance as a bunch of Muzongas would triple the food prices. Muzonga is (apparently) a non-derogatory term to cover all white folks. We met a group of ladies returning from the market who were planning on chicken for dinner. To preserve the freshness of lucky clucky, they poked a hole in the plastic bag so the fluffster could breathe. We think just a temporary reprieve however. On the scale of East African accommodations (abysmal is negative 5 stars to "just about sorted" 1 star), the camp/chalets at Chitimba Beach have scored the first resounding negative 5 stars score. They have one thing in their favour - the great handcraft market just outside the gate. Otherwise - shared ablutions, no hot water, no power in chalets, no towels, no nuffin'. So let's get back to the market - We are suddenly everyones' very special friends as we are the first of the group to venture out. We ordered up big time and James is now proudly sporting a custom designed bracelet featuring porcupine quills and a silver sun symbol of Malawi. (Made to order in a couple of hours by Ben). The highlight of the day was having some postcards hand-painted with our requested image of Africa's Big Five (the Lion, the Buffalo, the Elephant, the Rhino and the Leopard). Fantastic Steve took care of that order, his mate Mr Vegemite was entranced with my Kindle e-reader and Mike, the vendor of other trinkets took a shine to James and decided it wasn't safe for such an obviously wealthy Muzonga to walk to the village market further up the road by himself. Poverty is everywhere in Africa and it is never more obvious than when we're up close and personal with genuinely nice people. James received a guided tour of Mike's one room hut which he and his brother share, both sleeping on a floor mat. They were orphaned 14 odd years ago and Mike is now 19 and his brother 16. Going to the movies in their area involves paying 10 kwachas to the one person who owns a TV and runs DVDs one after the other all day. Our inherent suspicions of big charity and the glaring inequalities of Africa have been brought into sharp relief today. At the village market masses of western clothes and shoes are for sale. The vendors have had to buy them in bulk lots from someone further up the food chain who received a distribution from Unicef. Hmmm. After a good look around James was delivered safely back to the craft market gate where he is now worshiped as the Generous Australian Muzonga who distributed school pencils and sweets to the children. Negotiations and production of postcards and jewellery continued until after dark as other members of the group saw our newly purchased treasures. The gloriously carved wooden chairs, tables and even lampstands have had to stay right there unfortunately - Even the smallest of Noah's wooden animals can not be stabled in the backpacks. Tomorrow brings a new timezone and a new country as we cross from Malawi to Tanzania. See you then.
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