Arrived in Jaffna last night after a 12 hour journey up the East coast road from Trincomalee. The road has been shut for 30 years because of the political situation and the war. I'll give a fuller report later for anyone who may like to explore the region. I pretty sure I'm the only western tourist to have made the trip a part of which was done accidentally. Mile after mile of abandoned paddy fields and burned out building bear witness to the fighting. Most striking perhaps were the thousands of coconut palm with the tops apparently of heavy artillery fire. Vast minefield remain identified by yellow tape and signs issuing dire warnings in 3 languages.

The roads are lined with makeshift bunkers manned by bored young soldiers carrying large automatic weapons. They relieve their boredom by stopping the car every few miles to check documents. They are in effect an occupying force. When wandering the streets they had that slightly embarrassed air that I've noticed in our soldiers on patrol in Afghanistan. No swagger or aggression just a wish to go home?

The coastline is quite spectacular. Mile after mile of beautiful beaches, lagoons teaming with exotic birds and unspoilt jungle.