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22nd May 2013
We woke up relatively early and walked to Eddies hotel to use their wifi to contact family and friends. On route I found a little stray dog who definitely had pug in him. I literally chased him around the street but he didn't want to know like most stray dogs! Probably because he was so cute and used to the attention! We walked to the bus station and booked our bus to Potosi only costing only £3 each for around a 4 hour journey. Not bad! On route we picked up lots of random people with market stuff. We also stopped at a small cafe in the middle of nowhere for around half and hour. For the equivalent of 80p we ordered a bowl of soup each and crackers. It was yummy with pasta in it too to make it more filling. Bolivia is just so cheap!
We arrived in the old bus terminal in Potosi, almost as soon as we left the bus we were approached by a Bolivian guy in his 30's with a small book. He was trying to book is into the mining tour with him claiming to be the best tour of the mines in Potosi. Josh and I struggled to keep a straight face when he opened the book. First of all there was a page of the lonely planet book printed referring to a particular tour guide and then he produced a fake ID to claim it was in. Then he turned the page to show us some photographs of him down in the mine. He had literally taken photos and stuck his face on them. He really must think us tourist are stupid! After humouring him for a few minutes he fortunately left us alone. Not knowing where to go as we hadn't booked a hostel we asked some girls from our bus if they knew of any hostels, they got out their lonely planet book which recommended Koala hostel. We jumped in a taxi and headed straight there. We both weren't feeling brilliant and as it wasn't exactly expensive we decided to splash out on our own private room again. The room was fab, our own bathroom, massive bed and a TV.
After a quick freshen up we arranged to meet the rest of the gang including; Robbie, Serena, Cushler, Sam, Blair and Gemma. We walked to their hostel was across the road from us to chill for a bit before diner. They had been passed a leaflet for a place called Coyote which had been recommended. We arrived and were the only people in the restaurant. However they provided us with lots of table games such as Jenga and Four in a row. Such a good idea for a restaurant especially this one as the food although worth it was quite a wait.
Josh and I ordered 3 Mexican meals to share. Two spicy one mild, I don't think we were prepared for how spicy the food was going to be especially Josh. Unlucky for him he bit a chilli. I could see him start to sweat! To be fair Robbie was in the same situation! I felt ok, I think I was lucky to miss the chilli. Not feeling the best and still taking in the bad news Josh and I returned to our room after the meal for an early night.
23rd May 2013
We both woke up not feeling particularly well. However we made it downstairs to the breakfast. Definitely worth it, we had bread, jam, pancakes, eggs, fresh fruit and a hot drink. A luxury hostel breakfast! To be honest rather then complete the mine tour the day became a bit of a write off. We strolled around the town for a bit to get fresh air.
We spent a lot of time in our room watching American Tv such as Two and a Half Men and Friends. The highlight if the day being our amazing diner. josh popped out to get some street food that we had been recommended by the others the night before. They were amazing, and cheap! When feeling a bit rough all you want is some naughty food and the burger definitely fitted the requirement!
To be honest we welcomed a rest, I think after stressful news and a 3 day intense trip our body's just wanted to relax!
24th May 2013
We didn't wake up in time for the early mine trip, however we were both feeling considerably more fresh and a lot better so planned to go on the 1.30pm mine tour. After another good breakfast we packed our bags and explored the town further.
After a good explore around the town we stopped off at a local Bolivia cafe for a small lunch to keep us going. We ordered a ham, cheese and egg sandwich with chips to share. It cost like £2 or something and was more then enough to fill us up and all freshly made. The one thing I've noticed is that South America chips are so good! I've become a little addicted to chips which isn't helping the waste line!
We made out way back to our hostel to wait for our mine tour pick up. A shortish Bolivian guy who spoke perfect English called Hoolio was our tour guide. He was very enthusiastic and shook both Josh and my hands before leading us to the bus to be taken on the tour. We picked up two Dutch girls along the way and it turned out it was just going to be the four of us.
Firstly we were taken to a house to change into our clothes and protective gear. It really wasn't the most flattering! We had to wear baggy elastic trouser a couple of sizes too big, a red baggy shirt, big bulky boots, a belt and a helmet with a head torch. So off we went in our cool miner gear to our next stop, the miners market. The most embarrassing thing was we had to walk through the streets in all our gear. All the Bolivians were just staring and laughing at us, must of thought we looked ridiculous! We were taken into the store where different miners equipment or needs were sold. Hoolio showed us different items that the miners bought including dynamite which he informed us was fine for us to purchase. Only in Bolivia would it be ok for tourist to purchase dynamite strong enough to blow up mines. No health and safety restrictions in SA! He also explained how the miners drank 100% alcohol as medicine, it apparently helped them with their help. He poured us all a cap full, it was gross and so strong! Was really hard not to heave it was so disgusting! We all bought presents of fizzy pop or water for the miners and made our way to the bus to be taken to the Cerro Rico which means 'Rich Mountain' due to the amount of silver that can be mined there.
Firstly we were taken into where the silver is separated from the rock using chemicals such as cyanide which is extremely dangerous especially for women as of they inhale too much it can make you infertile. Hoolia showed us how the machine worked and the techniques of separating the silver from the rock. When he had made the silver into a liquid he wiped a small bit of silver on to each of our arms. The small factory like room really wasn't very health and safety like and I can't imagine European mines working in the same way. Hoolia explained how the miners often swap jobs and the heavy drill for 5 years. He also explained the average life span for a miner is 55 years old. I think it's mad how they shorten their life to work there however Hoolia explained that it enabled them to live much better and richer life's.
We were then taken into the mine. I am not exaggerating when I say it was the most terrifying experience of my life. As we walked into the mine we were told the tour would last a total of 2 hours. I nearly fainted, it was already very claustrophobic and starting to get hot. 15 minutes in I literally was about to pass out, it was boiling. I didn't know how I was going to survive! The worst part though was the deeper you came into the mine the narrower the hole came to get through. Most the time you literally have to crawl through. Hoolia was very good though, introducing us to miners who happily took photos with us, even at one point they pulled bunny ears behind mine and Josh's back. Although stuck down a mine all day they were reasonably happy, appreciating the water given to them.
We had to climb up a narrow passage with the odd rock to support us to a small cave like room. It was so hard to not only crawl and climb such a narrow passage but the two Dutch girls in front of us were literally creating so much dust in our face. Luckily we had scarfs to try and avoid swallowing too much dust! When we made it up the passage we met the mines oldest man, he had worked there for 35 years. He had definitely gone past the 55 year life expectancy, or he just looked beyond his years! He was really friendly and posed for a photo with Josh. The next narrow passage was just as narrow and we were invited to see 'The Drill'. This particular job is very dangerous and miners are restricted to a numbed of years of doing it. I really didn't want to go up but I also didn't want to be left alone in the mine so I gave in. It was so dusty, I could feel it on my chest. However to see the big drill was cool and the miners allowed us to have a good look before I quickly escaped back down to still narrow passage but not as narrow! Hoolia loved doing impressions of the miners having fits or pretending do be drunk, he said he considered himself quite the actor! He informed us the following day was an annual party in the mine, thousands of Llamas are sacrificed and cooked and their blood smeared across the mine for good luck. The miners also get very drunk and party all day. Sounded like fun, however although I've eaten Llama I didn't fancy watching the actual sacrifice especially with their cute face!
I don't know how we did it, the scariest experience ever with the mine shaking and dynamite going off around us. But the mines has to be one of the worst and best experiences of my life. I'm glad I did it as it was such an experience and definitely one I won't be able to experience close to home. However you won't be finding me down a mine ever again in my lifetime. Once and never again!
We got the bus back to our hostel and removed all the protective gear. I literally could not stop coughing! So much dust in my system! We also stunk of dust and kind if mouldy. We'd definitely missed our bus to Sucre, however I wasn't complaining! We booked a private room and I sat in the shower for a good half an hour or so. It felt sooooo good to be clean, a bus journey feeling that mouldy wouldn't of been great. Josh popped out to get us some street burgers, this time with red kebab meet inside aswell, then we spent the night watching our cheesey American TV in bed ready for our bus ride to Sucre the following morning.
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