Mick again:

This visit has a very Vatican theme. Today's main objectives were to embrace - literally - the heights and the depths.

As is always good practice, we began at the bottom with a tour of the 'scavi' the excavations under the Vatican, including the putative remains of Peter.

To get a grasp of the complex and fascinating history of the Vatican Hill, originally outside the city, near a racecourse which became a site for Christian martyrs, which then became a burial ground for both Christians - including Peter - and pagans and ultimately had three churches built on it you might like to go to Wikipedia.

We had booked some months ago as groups are limited to 12 and only about a dozen groups go through on any given day. Our guide was adequate- lacked the commitment of Luigi in Venice. I'll admit she showed a deal of patience with one of our tour group, an American woman whose attempts to show how smart she was ended up demonstrating the opposite. Someone - maybe her? - asked what a pagan was (Really??). In clarifying her answer she tried both Protestant and non denominational! This didn't quieten her down one bit. (Anne here- she also asked the guide "Did you notice the word narcissus?" on the wall. Seriously! She was speaking to an archeologist! )

Anyway, back to the Scavi. We were progressively taken through what was once a series of pagan Mausoleums above the surface, subsequently buried by Constantine as he rebuilt the Church and only rediscovered during the Second World War. There are still frescoes and sarcophagi and mosaics which give a clear sense of what they were like. Families used the same mausoleum for generations.

We transitioned into the Christian section which had sprung up as Christians sought to be buried close to Peter. While we couldn't see it here, the earliest Christian graves radiated around Peter's. This then gave rise to the first church - and so on.

The highlight of the tour, before emerging into the more readily accessible area where many of the popes are buried is Peter's tomb- or as Rick Steves says - definitely maybe Peter's remains. Right era, right age, right location.

From the depths to the heights, next stop was to scale the 551 steps to the top of Michelangelo's cupola. Well, we did use the lift for the first 200 or so, but then corkscrewed our way to the sky. Worth every step. Clear blue sky and magnificent vistas across St Peter's Square and all of Rome.

We did walk down all the stairs and then used our trusty Rick Steves app for an audio tour of the Basilica itself. This is an experience that never gets old. I have to say that I find myself torn between sheer awe at the achievement and wondering what Jesus would make of it all- particularly given the various presepi in the Vatican which remind us of his humble beginnings.

A little rest, a passeggiata and apperitivi and no need for dinner. WiFi here not up to downloading another movie so a quiet/ early night.