Post check-in at Princess Salme Inn, we headed to the main stretch of Stone Town to explore and, more importantly, to eat. Unfortunately, we hadn't realized that our trip would coincide with the beginning of Ramadan. Despite being a tourist hot spot, Zanzibar is first and foremost a dedicated Muslim community. This meant that, despite being willing to serve meals to mzungus during the day, most restaurants would honour their holy month by opening later than their posted time. Cue more crankiness from lack of food.

At 12 noon, on the dot, we made a mad dash to Silk Road, an Indian restaurant that smelled absolutely heavenly. The food was only mediocre, but we would've gladly eaten just about anything at that point. After stuffing ourselves silly, we headed off in search of the spice market. Not two hours later, we had successfully acquired spices AND walked all of Stone Town. It's really that small. Deciding to take the lull to do something truly (gasp) relaxing on vacation, we meandered into Tatu lounge, where beer in hand and gazing out at the shimmering blue waters of the Indian Ocean, I began to acquire a newfound appreciation for doing absolutely nothing. For several hours. That evening, we headed to Forodhani Park for fresh seafood by the waterfront. I actually had a culture shock upon first entering the square. No joke. I had so enjoyed all the wonderful Tanzanians we had met throughout our trip that I was actually a little out of my element to find myself suddenly amongst throngs of tourists. Not to mention that the calm peaceful tranquility of nature was suddenly replaced by noisy tourists and bright lights. The seafood skewers were kinda eh (Lamma island off the coast of Hong Kong still trumps all), but I got some more lamb and Lea got her sugarcane juice so we ended up pretty happy. Tired of dodging the world's largest collection of stray cats, we headed back to our hostel where we finally rediscovered the beauty of a hot shower (#4) and a soft, comfortable princess bed.