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What a beautiful sunny clear start to the day. The view from Gokyo Ri must be crystal clear and go for miles. Shame we climbed it yesterday. Today I was entirely ready to descend and get some more oxygen. That said, Dolhe isn't a massive drop in altitude, but it is as least down, and certainly well below 5000m.
The best news from yesterday is that I got my appetite back. I'm now fast approaching, if not completely back to, my old self. My headache is clearing and the walk back down to Dolhe has made me feel better.
Lots of downs and ups led us to Dolhe across deceptively deep valleys and surprisingly tough climbs. Nothing like the previous days though. We met Samek and Magdalena (I've definitely spelled that wrong), the polish couple who were originally doing exactly the same walk as us. It was here we learned how lucky we'd been.
They were going in the opposite direction! The slight difference in our plans meant we had pushed on from Kala Patthar straight to Dzonglha on the same day. This meant we could do Cho La Pass a day early. The rough weather the next day had made it too difficult for the polish to cross Cho La, so they had to turn back at Dzonglha and were now heading up to Gokyo in their remaining time. And let me tell you: that's no small detour. Ouch.
One tiny hitch today was my nose rediscovering its ability to bleed. Just when I'd forgotten about it. That put a downer on the otherwise glossy day I'd had.
We finished the day with a german family who were on their way to Gokyo. I spoke to them in broken, rusty german and taught them to play trumps. Seems like the game of choice for our trek!
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