La Paz sprawling city located in 2 valleys slightly underlying the altiplano comprising about 750k mainly Aymara originated locals.  We found them to be quite different to the Argentinians and Peruvian in that they seemed to be very closed and not as friendly.  This I think is linked to their determination to keep their local traditions and as such there were many women walking around in bowler hats and very traditional long skirts.  The irony is that these would have been partly of Spanish influence.  Speaking to 2 peace corps chaps we found that with time they could be won over and were really friendly and we certainly came across some really nice Bolivians.  It is a city that has expanded haphazardly and there are some buildings pecariously perched on the edge of cliffs which makes the term one watch your step pretty relevant!  The markets are the main atraction with a huge mix of different artifacts old and new to be haggled for ....  from fossils millions of years old (really wanted to get one but Cath would have none of it!) to cheap chinese watches you could get most things under the sun including potency enhancing herbs and animal parts that could be used for all manner of good luck charms etc. etc.  The most delightful purchase was that of a llama foetus to be used as a good luck charm in the foundations of new homes.  This very interesting backdrop was the start of our death road biking experience.  This started a half hour trip out of the town at an altitude of 4600m (do not quote me) and ended at an altitude of 600ms or so.  Our guide was the owner of the company we went with (Gravity mountain biking).  He is kiwi and started the business in 2000 with a couple of bikes which have now grown to a couple of hundred bikes - we thought it was pretty cool he was out there doing what he loved best.  His name was Alistair who sported spectacular lamb chops and took no dare devil nonsense!  The ride was a dream as it was all downhill with the exception of some tiny uphills which at that altitude felt like Everests!  Cath decided to ignore Alistair on the daredevil no nos and proceeded to do a 360 flip over her handle bars where the tar section joined the dirt track.  Unfortunately the result was badly bruised hands and thighs.  She carried on very bravely onto the dirt section and next to the biggest drop offs (pic) but decided to stop with only about 1/3rd to go as she was pretty shaken up.  We ended the ride at a wildlife sanctuary that had macaws, spider and howler monkeys, ocelots, wild pigs, dogs (!) and the list goes on...  It was a great day and we were very happy to take the very recently finished new road back to La Paz.  The hilarity there is that it has been opened each time by the encumbent president who on average lasts under a year.  Evo Morales the first indigenous leader had lasted just over a year when we arrived and is still in power.  On the way back Alistair recounted death road experiences that did not have happy endings.  A french girl a few years back had dismounted when a truck came around the corner she thought she had no space (although there was loads!) and took a 200m + step.  A couple of mths back an Israeli guy had been messing about with his friend and also ended up with the short end.  The last one was the saddest - an Israeli girl had complained about her breaks not working fully and had been told to stop complaining.  She was on a downhill stretch and could not stop and ended going through a bunch of resting cyclists over the edge - it was a mystery to us why no one stopped her!  Following our cycle in the next couple of days we started our Peru tour and Cath takes it from there...