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After a little lie in and a leisurely morning we walk the half mile up to the ferry, which takes upto 10 cars, but no motorhomes which are prone to grounding due to the steepness of the landing ramps.
Within minutes we are aboard and moving out on a mini-cruise of the Seine. The abbey is less than 1km and when we arrive we are granted free admission.
With its origins dating back to the 7thC Jumieges Abbey is one of the oldest monasteries in Normandy. The current structure [remains of] was consecrated in 1067 in the presence of William the Conqueror, riding high after his victory over England. Later, during the 100 years war, the English occupied Normandy and took control and the church continued to flourish. In the 18th C revolutionary drove out the monks who took refuge in Rouen then the structure was mined for building materials, hence its state of ruin today.
Built of almost-white stone its twin-towered facade stands bright in the sunshine. There are the remains of some exquisite detailing on pillars and door frames. In a couple of places are the faint remains of painted surfaces, easily imagined for us after seeing similar work in pristine condition at St Savin in March. Grooves in the walls and corners of vaulting are visible and section of friezes and arches laid on the ground all help to convey its once glorious design.
We wander from section to section imagining the gaps filled in. But visitors not wanting to use their imagination can opt in to a mobile app which, at strategic points, offers a 3D turn-on-the-spot image on their devices of how the scene would have looked when complete.
After our visit we sit on a terrace opposite the towers and have a late lunch of salad with cidre then wander around town, then go a little way along the riverbank before going back to the ferry.
As we trundle down the slipway to board, the deckhand marshalls us onto the empty deck with elaborate hand signals and say ‘go anywhere you like’. A few cars board, we cross the river and after the cars leave we are saluted off with advice to drive on the right. What a comic.
We wander up to the village of Heurteauville, passing one house where a big black dock rushes up to the fence barking angrily. Worried that there are no gates we cross over but the daft mutt rushes past the open gap and bangs up against the other fence, obviously well trained not to leave the garden.
Back at the van we sit in the evening sunshine listening to blackbirds and watching more ships, including a 22400 GRT bulker called Celia, which looks enormous in the river.
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