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After an early night to bed we are up in good time and check out by 10:30 having paid a total of €6.94 including electric and wifi, bound for Evora.
It's beautiful scenery for all 50 miles of the journey; wide, open fields of green vegetable shoots, fields carpeted in yellow and white meadow flowers, dairy herds, the odd stork including the only one we've seen that has built a nest on a tree-top instead of a man made structure. Talking of manmade structures, we pass the huge hilltop castle of Portel.
We reach the car park in Evora in sight on the massive Roman viaduct. The guide books suggest entering the old city through any of the ancient gates [portas] and following that road to the centre like the spoke of a wheel. Our nearest is Porta d'Avis leading straight to a statue of the godess Diana
The streets are narrow with even narrower side streets, although cars still drive around all but the very centre. The main square is Praco de Giraldo, named after Gerald the Fearless who conqured Evora by climbing a ladder of spears to distract the guards while his men stormed the fort. It was also where Fernando was executed [cue Abba song]. Gerald Square is a pleasant space with a central plaza and peripheral road. In the centre are tables and chairs of restaurants and the waiters have to cross on the zebra crossings to fetch and carry the orders. We select the appropriately named Restaurante Giraldo and start with a carafe of rustic red wine with olives, cheese and bread. Our main course is Migas con carne de porco, roasted pork chunks with a sort of bread pudding containing asparagus, leeks and raisins. The waiter tells us it is typical peasant food, although whether peasants eat it off an upturned roofing pantile we don't know. Two delicous, filling courses and wine for two comes to €33.10.
We follow a narrow side street up to the remains of the 2nd C Roman temple of Diana, its 14 columns topped with Estremoz marble stand imposingly in the square.
Following no particular route we meander through the streets to the municipal gardens, but at this time of year the only thing blossoming is young love as teenage couples snog each other in secluded corners by the fortified town wall.
The church, Iglesia Real de S. Fransisco, is our next point if interest. It looks recently sandblasted outside, but inside it is a marvel of subtle stone and marble work. In contrast to all the bling we saw in the Spanish cathedrals, this is subtle but highly detailed marble carving and blue-and-white tiling. Chapel screens are intricate but not ostentatious.
We work our way back through the cobbled streets to Porta d'Avis having spent a very enjoyable afternoon in this gem of a medieval city.
It's 17:15 and although this car park is listed as a camperstop, we are the only mtorhome here. Plus it's sloping and noisy so we discuss whether to head to Estremoz or stay. After a few minutes we find a campsite on the way to Estremoz and opt for that.
The forty minute drive north east, with the setting sun bathing farmland and woodland with red light was a delight. We arrive at Parque de Campismo Alentejo just before dark. The Dutch owner says he was expecting us as his wife overtook our van a few miles before.
We are soon settled and get stuck into a bottle of local red while we use the wifi to Skype Julie and Mike.
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