It was a lovely peaceful night and we wake to glorious sunrise. Around 10:30 we set out in Mary*Lou for the Plitvicke National Park only 4 miles down the road. N+G go separately on their motorbike.

We meet at the carpark, get coffee and sandwiches then buy our 100 kuna tickets to the park.

The whole park covers 295 sq.km and apparently represents karst hydrography, with lakes and cascades forming Tufa rock and Tavertime formations. As we walk the grit and rock paths the science presents itself in vivid turquoise lakes fed and drained by foaming white waterfalls. These lakes lie within a massive canyon with trees growing from fissures in the slate grey and purple rock. In places we can see shoals of large trout- or salmon-like fish. There is birdsong all around and the dappled shadows on the forest floor are peppered with campion, white foxglove and other small flowers. In all there are over 1200 identified plant species. There is also a rich diversity of fauna; we see butterflies and electric-blue damsels, birds and lizards. There are also wolves and bears; we saw none in front of us but you never know if you have a bear behind.

It's 28C but the trees are shady and a breeze comes up from the canyon, but in one place there is a warm, humid updraft with an organic aroma, something like the effect of lifting the lid on a tropical aquarium.

We get to Station 1 where park buses shuttle people to the higher lakes, but oh what a surprise, they all have 4-5 steep steps. N+G go on their way to the upper lakes and an inclusive boat ride, while we dawdle back thee way we came. Now we're realists, and a natural canyon cannot all be buggy friendly, but tthey charge us the full amount which is a bit naughty. Anyway, what we saw was fantastic and worth a tenner with or without a gripe.

We arrive back on site soon after 16:00 and Ali has a swim while some clothes are in the washing machine.

Everyone enjoyed the restaurant so much last night we decide to give it another go tonight. After all, you can't havde too many slice fried potato.