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Back to the chaotic reality of Kathmandu. A slight drizzle is keeping the nasty pollution at bay. Even the hills are visible!
Found the best MoMos in town (according to TripAdvisor and our taste buds). My favourite was the pork hot chilli dumpling.... Yumm!
Strange to be back where your senses are bing assaulted at every turn. Bhutan is so peaceful compared to this city. Walking down the street is an exercise in dexterity! In order to survive just one short block you must avoid the rickshaws, cars, motor bikes, bicycles (with huge loads on the back), pedestrians and puddles ... not to mention the gawking tourists who aren't paying attention. All this on a road 1 1/2 cars wide and lined with shops and shop keepers!
On our first full day we hired a driver to take us to the major sites. So glad we decided not to take the buses. Been there.. done that... in other crowded cities.
First stop was Swayambhu Temple otherwise known as the Monkey Temple. Masses of prayer flags, leaping monkeys and sleeping dogs. Here, in Nepal, you can walk inside the temples and take pictures. Seems the faithful have lost out to the pushiness of tourists who complain if they have to take off their shoes. Or perhaps the faithful just aren't that devout any more?!
From this temple there is a good view of the city below. We spun more prayer wheels while watching the monkeys gobble up the offerings left at various shrines.
Next stop was Patan Durbar Square. This large area is closed to vehicles which makes it a joy to wander around. Patan, Kathmandu and Bhaktapur (which we'll visit tomorrow) were once the capitals of three kingdoms. Patan and Kathmandu were divided by the (horribly polluted) Bagmati River. Patan is now a suburb of Kathmandu with the same municipal government. Judging from the intricate carving and restored gardens this was once a palace of great beauty. Now the 17th century Temples seem to be a hang out for teenagers who sit on the platforms giggling and playing with their phones. Still it is an amazing place to lose yourself for a couple of hours. Met a delightful Chinese woman at lunch. She had an infectious joy of living that can't help but rub off!
Then on to Pashupatinath Temple.... locally known as the burning ghats. This sacred Hindu temple is similar to Varanasi in India. People come here to be cremated with their ashes thrown in the river. It was uncomfortable for me to wander amid the worshipers who are attending a loved one's funeral and tourists taking pictures. To top this all off there was a carnival atmosphere among the few men dressed up in full " Hindu Holy Man' regalia in order to charge tourists for their picture. They are taking advantage of a holy place to line their pockets. Maybe if they moved their enterprise to the entrance area. Just didn't seem right to me.
Last stop of the day was Boudhanath Temple. Maintained by Tibetan refugees the people in this area have a distinctly different look about them. Many still cling to their traditional dress.... a displaced people embraced by their neighbours. This huge temple was the site where pilgrims and travellers of old would stop to ask a blessing for safe passage. Apparently it was built atop a hill with sacred energy. Whatever the truth, it was a place where we felt relaxed, taking our time to sit and watch, spin the wheels and pray as well as climb up and take in the view. Nice end to the day.
On our last full day we set out to Bhaktapur, the cultural capital of Nepal. This town was the capital of Nepal until the 15th century. The town is well preserved in spite of surviving an earthquake. Here life goes on at a gentler pace. Open spaces were occupied by locals separating wheat and tying bundles of hay to be used to feed livestock or fire kilns for the local pottery trade. Wandering the back streets we came upon women gathering water from wells, hanging corn and garlic from the rafters to dry, buying from the green grocer and basically paying little or no attention to us except for the odd smile and frequent "Nameste". This was nice. As time went on the tour buses started to arrive and the touts came out. Love the early morning. I really liked this village. It was what Kathmandu was probably like 30 years ago before trekking became such a big deal. Now Kathmandu is like Bangkok or New Deli complete with late night bars and rip off artists.
Do I sound like I'm done??
After lunch overlooking the cloud covered Himalayan peaks (we did see a couple pop out on the drive) at Nagarot, we did a two hour hike down a seldom used road to the temple at Changunarayan. The first part of the walk went through a forested area overlooking two valleys. Unfortunately a couple of snakes decided to surprise us at the start of the walk which made us a little hesitant! Especially when one of them fell out of a tree about two feet away from us! Eventually the road took us through a couple of villages before making it's way to the temple. This ancient Hindu temple dates back to the third century AD and is one of the most important monuments in the Kathmandu valley. Apparently Lord Vishnu lived on this spot hiding out from a Guru who had put a curse on him. The temple commemorates his life and is a site of pilgrimage for Hindus.
Hot and tired we began the drive back to the city in the middle of rush hour. I can't begin to describe to you how done I am with the noise and pollution. How do the residents of this city survive in such circumstances? Motorcyclists and pedestrians account for most of the fatalities which isn't a surprise. We were amazed that the number averages out to only 3 serious injuries or fatalities a day.
We did manage to make it back with a face mask and sunglasses securely fastened. Did I mention the hotel provides free water and face masks? Just saying...!!
Now the rain can begin in earnest here in Nepal. I hope it comes soon as the farmers are ready to plant their rice and the fields are bone dry.
I forget to mention the reason for the title of this blog. This was the first Government sign I read on our return and it spoke volumes. Corruption is very much alive and well in Nepal. There are riot police on every major intersection. I'm talking helmets, shields and batons. Now picture ten of these guys in blue grey uniforms standing around trying to look scary while blowing bubble with their gum. Then picture two or three of them asleep on the side of the road (or playing games on their phones) while a demonstration is taking place across the road. Then picture twenty of them piling in to the back of a truck (that should take only ten or twelve) and rushing off to an emergency. When asked about the emergency we were told that if the police try to arrest someone (for any infraction) the locals get mad and start throwing stones or hitting them. That's when reinforcements are called in to subdue the crowd. There seems to be little respect for any kind of authority. Even the government is not respected. The royalty is missed and the Maoist (communist) party has pretty much burned their bridges. Still, everyone is unhappy but sees no way out. Silent (and not so silent) protests continue with the latest ones to do with the Sherpas compensation. No one expects the government to make any changes but they still hold out a little hope that international pressure will prevail.
No wonder there is a problem with money laundering.... it's all about getting by any way you can.
Tonight we go to Japan.... ready for a good visit with our Japanese family!!
- comments
anne ashton I have loved your blogs. Thank you!! Enjoy Japan and will see you on your return. Everything here is great and it has been an exceptionally good growing season with all the rain and sun. Will fill you in on all the local news.Love anne