Amritsar, India
Leaving Rishikesh didn't quite go to plan! We were supposed to share a vikram with Ghopal to Haridwar, so we could avoid an unsafe bus driver whizzing us down the mountain chichanes; Liz didn't enjoy the bus journey up that much and was dreading the journey back [the buses are bone rattling here and held together by sellotape which rotted in the 1980s!] So after our last early morning yoga session, Ghopal had flagged down a guy, bartered with him to take him &a...

