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Ambrym - the black island. This refers to the black soil and sand that covers the island from twin active volcanos. When you see this we will be off the island and safe.
Not that it is irresponsibly dangerous, there are two types of volcanos and this is the safer type - if that applies to volcanos. I liken this to the risk of being hit by lightening.
Last night (in Luganville) we met a group of Aussies that were also affected by the plane problems (though they were going to the islands in the north). This company combined with the airline paying our bill meant that we had a merry night.
Next day despite Lizzies raging hangover we got ready to be picked up for the 9am flight. The airport supervisor was supposed to pick us up, but by 8.40am And no show I started to feel that it was cancelled again. However he did turn up and got us to the airport for 8.55am, only to be met with the flight closed sign. Little attention was payed to this, and bags checked in as normal. As we were to get onto the plane Liz noticed that the boarding passes had the wrong destination. Don't worry said the aircrew we cannot change the destination on the computer - you get off first stop.
Liz is a very nervous flyer, the sight of propellers and only 15 seats didn't make things better. With the screeching of the planes brakes ( I hoped) we taxied into position, took off and the co pilot settled into the mornings news paper.
Liz had her eyes shut the entire short flight, only opening them in panic as we hit the grass runway. At the side of a simple concrete shack was a 4x4 pickup truck and thus our transport to Port Vatu.
Before long the dirt track from the airport deteriated into one of the worse roads I have seen. As we travelled up some old lava flows (1945) we got a good view of Mt Benhow looming before us. Bamboo posts marked areas that needed to be avoided but after a few detours off road to get past fallen trees, land washouts etc we got to Port Vatu (nice and fresh apart from Liz).
John Tasso came out to greet us, and showed us to the charming guest bungalow (the blog picture). It was a typical local house made entirely from materials found in the forests, but more importantely Liz looked happy, even the bucket shower and toilet did not sway her. The bed also was made from branches and surprisingly comfortable.
John was as nice as you can get before having to slap him. Before long he came out with lunch, lots of fruit that I have never tried and laplap (the local dish). We had tried laplap before but were not that impressed, however John was trying so hard to please us that we had to eat as much as possible. Liz who didn't manage that much pilled hers onto my plate.
Liz crashed on the bed and I had a little explore. The village was deserted apart from the odd chicken, the singing at the local church gave a strong clue as to their whereabouts.
After church I ventured out again, John tried to explain what I interpreted as everyone is watching TV. It turned out as I approached the village green that the villagers were trying to fathom out how to set up a satellite dish, TV and receiver. About 20 men were randomly picking up pieces and then putting them down. Pretty much the rest of the village were watching in amusmement.
I offered to have a go. I am the type of person that normally does not read instructions so the lack of them didn't deter. Figuring out what most of the pieces were I sent off people to make a post to mount the disk on. Out came the always useful machette to make a post of the correct diameter. I was using this time to figure out where the other 'spare' pieces went. After a few urecka moments the dish was made with the always present few screws spare.
This village does not have electricity or anything. The satellite dish and generator was lent to the village by the goverment just for watching the world cup. The goverment is hoping that they might learn some football skills (TIV). The locals love football and were keen to show me an England flag on a pole in the village. Afterwards we all posed in front of the dish for a photo.
Liz by this time was sitting in the shade of a tree with the women and children getting lots of fuss. When she showed them some camera pictures they went mad with excitement, even bringing out sheets and umbrellas to cut out the sun and make the pictures clearer.
There are 150 people in the village and apart from a German (paid to study the language), the only white people.
I have never been to a more friendly place. I have been here a day but already feel that I belong. This is a special day that I will always remember.
Tomorrow we hope to start the two day volcano trek.
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