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Wednesday 4 June
One of our rainiest days but we persevered between showers to visit the lovely city of Brugges. Firstly, the Historium which presented the history of the city in dramatised form – actually very well done and we were very impressed to know that it was once the very epicentre of commerce in its heyday. Just walking about the streets past the canals and across the wonderful market square was entertaining enough – and there was actually a market as well. All the while we were both imagining the scenes from the movie “In Brugges”. We delayed taking a boat ride on the canal hoping it would fine up, knowing that with Murphy’s law it would rain as soon as we boarded a boat. And indeed it did!
After an early dinner back at the hotel, we drove back to the Menen Gate in time for the Last Post at 8 pm. There was a huge crowd and many tour groups, obviously heading for the D-day celebrations next weekend, so the ceremony was prolonged by many groups laying wreaths, plus there was some official person from Germany it seemed. It was extremely moving and the huge crowd was completely silent throughout.
Thursday 5 June
The rainiest day yet! Dreadful for Ray driving in the freeway traffic but he managed very well. As we drove north our height above sea level dropped steadily, remaining in single digits for a long time until it finally dropped into minus numbers! Not sure how they’re going to manage hereabouts when global warming sets in!
Our first stop in Holland was Dordrecht where we had lunch – quite a pretty town on the meeting place of 2 large rivers, the Maas and the Waal and once an important centre of commerce and politics. We were both too tired to really appreciate it however, but it was good to have a break for lunch and some shopping. In the afternoon, we visited Kinderdikt where there are 19 functioning wooden old style windmills keeping the water levels under control. We hired bikes to ride along the dikes to see them up close at the exorbitant price of 2.50 Euro. Bikes are the transport of choice in these countries and you see thousands of them at the railway stations and bus stations. One drawback is that people steal them and throw them in the canals when finished with them.
Ray let “Fifi” (the GPS) have her head and she took us right through the middle of Rotterdam to reach our B&B across its very modern suspension bridge right near the harbour. It is a city which was badly destroyed in WW2 and had been rebuilt in modern style. Hence it is quite a spectacular modern city but has little personality.
We are very impressed with our Hostess at tonight’s B&B – she welcomed us with a beer, has left wine in the room for us and bathrobes to use if we wish. She has also given us great info for our exploration around Rotterdam tomorrow and promised us a typical Dutch breakfast in the morning.
Friday 6 June
Today dawned sunny and hot and what a wonderful tour our hostess planned for us. Out to Gouda we drove via little roads past many houses and farms on the canals, all around minus 10m below sea level. Many farms have their own windmills controlling the water flow and everywhere it is mega picturesque with thatched cottages and barns beside the canals. The “polders” or rectangles of reclaimed land between the canals were occupied by happy cows and sheep grazing on the verdant grass. “Fifi” GPS took us via a scenic route and we happened to pass a sign with the words “info” and “dyke” – this being a topic of interest to us, we stopped only to be nabbed by a real estate agent! He wanted to sell us an estate on the new canal development.
The guide book says 20% of Holland was reclaimed from the sea (not on the ancient maps) and another 20% is water. What I want to know is the %age below sea level and what their plans are for global warming???
Finally we reached Gouda, which is a really lovely town, its Town Hall sitting in the middle of the market square and hugely long St John’s Church with its “longest comic book in the world” i.e. the wonderfully detailed stained glass windows. We enjoyed a cheese platter for lunch – what else?! We were not so happy later when discovered our parking ticket had gone missing and they charged us 36 Euro to get out of the parking! We searched everywhere and even retraced our steps over the whole town with no luck. I told them I thought it was outrageous – the 12 Euro 24 hr fee would be reasonable but they were unmoved. Unfortunately we did not find the silver museum on our itinery and the stork sanctuary was closed when we got there. So, it was a day of misadventure somewhat but nevertheless a very lovely excursion into the Dutch countryside.
Saturday 7 June
Another great day in the Netherlands! We were sorry to leave our hosts at the B&B, Ria and Wil, and hope they come to visit us in Oz sometime. Today our first stop was Delft which is mega picturesque with the usual water-lily filled canals and cute houses, the central square with Cathedral and Town Hall. Most streets around the city were filled with a “brocante” market – interesting collectibles abounded. We spent a couple of hours in the Vermeer museum becoming totally enthralled by his art work, his vision, his craft. After lunch in the square, we headed East to the Veluwe National Park, from 10m below to and amazing 34m ABOVE sea level! A free bike was included in the entrance fee so we took a picnic and spent the afternoon riding through the forest to the visitor centre where we spent more than an hour on the exhibition on the park’s history of use and natural features – absolutely fascinating. Nowhere in Holland is there land that has not been altered by the presence of man and the NP is no exception. Once overgrazed, there are areas of sandy desert and other areas of heath and also forests which have been planted.
We thoroughly enjoyed our bike ride but there were many, many Dutch people enjoying the exercise and the outdoors on their bikes so we two novice riders had to be careful.
Our B&B tonight is in the middle of the forest – cool and quiet.
Sunday 8 June
Another wonderful day in the Veluwe Nat Park! The park was established from reclaimed farmland by a wealthy industrialist who wanted to enjoy hunting; his wife was a passionate art enthusiast and wanted to establish an art museum. So... what we have is a wonderful forest full of walking paths and bike paths, a “modest” hunting lodge resembling a castle, and a magnificent art gallery containing an amazing collection of impressionist art, including 90 Van Gogh’s (and a selection from most of the other major impressionists). Surrounding the museum there is a 25 hectare modern sculpture garden which is a delight in itself. Needless to say, we spent the entire morning there – so glad we arrived right on opening as the people were streaming in all day!
After a picnic lunch, we took to the bikes again and rode another 8-10 km – no hills, so not too strenuous and it was mostly through the shady forest. Tonight, for once, we treated ourselves to a restaurant meal and then came home to find our lovely hostess has left liquers and ameretto biscuits for us as well as chocolates! Spoilt rotten we are.
Monday 9 June
Our destination today was Amsterdam but we took the scenic route again, northwards along the dykes, exploring the Dutch countryside and the smaller towns – Deventer and Giethoorn, enroute. The beauty of the first was somewhat spoilt by the presence of an enormous funfair in the old city square. It made for some interesting contrasts in our photos that’s for sure. Giethoorn is a collection of thatched cottages divided by canals and walking paths – no cars so you can only get around on foot, bike or boat. It was quite delightful. Our hostess at the B&B near Amsterdam is again hospitable to a fault, anticipating all our needs and more. I think she was quite surprised we were so “old”! Her house is the front part of an old farm –with the barn still attached and of course the accompanying ripe smells of the cow effluent that is sprayed early each morning it seems! We had to climb the steepest stairs to our bedroom under the roof – more like a ladder actually! But we have a lovely outlook on the lily covered canal.
Tuesday 10 June
It is official – we LOVE Amsterdam! No problem getting into the city with the Park & Ride – only 1 Euro to park all day after 10am if you combine this with a 2.50Eu tram ticket to the city. Brisbane could learn a thing or 2 about public transport! We spent the morning in the Van Gogh museum – completely hooked on his artworks now. Equally amazing but incredibly crass were the endless array of Van Gogh style paraphernalia for sale. So ironic for a man who was unable to achieve commercial success during his life time that they have now created en masse every conceivable commercial object on every perceivable theme in his art! The most grotesque was an ‘ear sharpener’ – a pencil sharpener in the shape of an ear.
For morning tea, we joined the many locals enjoying the sun in the park before taking a canal boat ride around the city. This was a great choice as we were able to rest our feet after the museum, see the sights of this wonderful old city and thoroughly orientate ourselves at the same time. Lunch was a priority by now (2.30pm) and we luckily found an ‘all you can eat spare ribs’ at a reasonable price and were served by a lovely young NZ girl. We explored the beautiful flower market and then walked to Dam square and finally through the “red light” district – some ladies were already on duty at 6pm. We were very careful to stick close to each other and watch for pickpockets as we had been advised.
Wednesday 11 June
Another great day – many more kms walked on the paving stones. First of all the Beguinehof – an enclave of old houses, once a shelter for widows and holy women, later a Catholic enclave within the Protestant state, then a VERY long detour to the Resistance museum which described what it was like living in Amsterdam during the occupation and round-up of Jews in the 40’s. It was very interesting but of course also very harrowing, especially the fate of many children.
We had to catch a tram to meet up with Tegan for lunch and an unexpected adventure. She suggested hiring bikes and buying picnic supplies to take to the famous Vondel Park. We would never have been game to do so ourselves because it doesn’t pay to be hesitant in Amsterdam traffic, but following her made it possible. We spent a couple of relaxing hours together, rode around the Park and safely returned the bikes. It was simply a wonderful way to experience this wonderful city. Tegan had to hurry away to a dance class and so we finished off our long day by joining the queue to the Anne Frank house. We had been advised it would be shorter after 5pm and indeed it was only a half hour wait. Not so when we came out at 7 – the queue was much longer. It was a very worthwhile visit to see the authentic hiding place and to learn more about this extraordinary young girl. She was certainly an author in the making and we are privileged that her diaries were found and preserved.
Thursday 12 June
We have had the most wonderful breakfasts every day on the farm and we were sorry to leave our friendly hostess, Miete. Today our goal was to visit the museum at Lelystad about the building of the dykes in the first half of the 20th century. Lelystad is so named after the visionary architect, Lely, who conceived of this monumental project, knowing he would not see it completed in his lifetime. The result is a whole new province called Flevoland. The video footage is incredible - workers literally digging out a channel in the bed of the sea, filling it with sand and clay and building it up with rocks and reeds, meanwhile contending with the sea, then covering it in giant granite blocks bedded down together seamlessly like cobblestones. Afterwards we drove across one of the 20km+ long dyke/bridges with the sea on each side being of different colours.
Our B&B tonight is also on a farm and the hostess offers dinners so we booked for one expecting some country home cooking. Turns out she is a professional caterer! We had a 3 course restaurant level meal for 22.50 each. Spicy pumpkin/coconut soup decorated with edible flowers with accompaniments of bread, cheeses and olives. Baked pork roll with a delicious assortment of vegies roasted with garlic, followed by home made chocolates, cake and and strawberries. Wow!
Friday 13 June
Our planned early start for the cheese market in Alkmar was not achieved so we had to stand during proceedings. It was very interesting to see the pairs of guys carrying 8 cheeses weighing nearly 100kg between them on a wooden stretcher to the old weigh station in the old town square. Meanwhile the testers went around cutting open a sample of each & taste testing them. They brought small pieces for the crowd to try as well. All the while young people in traditional dress tried to sell us cheese & other tourist material. The town itself is mega cute as well with the usual canals and bridges between the usual picturesque houses.
From there we meandered through the “polders” along the dykes to a couple of other little authentic villages that were once fishing villages on the seafront. On our way we visited an old wooden working mill which was extremely interesting. We are beginning to perceive the immensity of the undertaking to keep the water back. At as much as 10m below sea level, the water has to be pumped up several levels one after the other and checked daily so that the fields do not become water logged. Nowadays it is all done by a central computerised electric pumping station but it must have been very complex in the old days.
We are now in the Hague for the World Hockey Finals, so hereby ends our travel diary. Who wants to read about hockey????
- comments
Christine and Jim With the final hockey result you may have had more readers than you expected! Your holidays sounds as if it has been excellent ... thanks for sharing it.