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Friday 23 May
What an exhausting day! 7.30 am departure from B&B in Dublin, flight to Amsterdam, driving until 9.30pm to get to our gite through the traffic jams around Antwerp and Lille, through Holland, Belgium, into France and down to a farm east of Rouen. A working dairy farm and such a lovely place - old wood & red brick farm buildings including a dove cote renovated as a 3 storey gite. The countryside is mega picturesque as well - definitely on the list of places to stay next visit!
Saturday 24 May
Even though we got away as quickly as possible, it was already crowded at Monet’s garden at Giverny. We had to stand in line to get in and then we filed through in an unbroken line of people. We were not disappointed however as it is quite simply exquisite, not only because of the profusion of flowers but the scent of them and the reflections in the water. No excuse for someone to be artistically inclined in such surroundings.
From there we took the freeways to make a quick trip to our gite near St Malo - where we found Jacqueline and Francoise had just arrived. It was delightful to be back with our friends – we enjoyed an aperitif in the sunshine and talked until late planning our time in Brittany.
Sunday 25 May
Another wonderful day and the sun shone all day! We headed to Cancale to begin with where we filled ourselves with oysters – a dozen for 6 Euro and huge compared to ours back home. Not being full enough after that we went to a restaurant for some crepes – savoury followed by sweet! To make up for our sins we went for a walk around the Pointe de Grouin which juts out into the Baie de Mont St Michel. We could well see why they call it the Emerald Coast! It is magnifique!
We continued along the coast to St Malo and down to the Barrage de la Rance, which is a huge dam across the mouth of the river which has been making electricity for 48 years because the tide rises 13.5m hereabouts which provides a get deal of force in both directions! It is also a road bridge and a lock which passes 48000 boats a year.
The family rejoined us for 4 nights – happy to see the littlies again for the last time until we get home.
Monday 26 May
Carmen & family set off for Mont St Michel while we explored the Valley of the Rance, a very long and wide estuary. Firstly, on the west side, Dinard is the twin town to St Malo although less fortified. Further down the river, we found beautiful little inlets, water mills which worked on the tide in times gone by and many, many pleasure boats moored ready for summer use. Where the river narrows Dinon is situated – perfectly preserved medieval town, with its half timbered houses surrounding the square and protected by its fortified walls. Down below the little port on the river is just too picturesque for words.
Tuesday 27 May
Time for a day at the beach! First we visited the “sculptured rocks” – a larger area exposed at low tide where, more than 100 years ago, an elderly monk who had been handicapped by a stroke, spent the last 14 years of his life carving out the local legends. Unable to speak and in the end only able to drag himself down and up the rocky slope, he used the only means available to express his art. Very impressive but nerve wracking with 2 active children!
We found a sheltered spot for our beach picnic and the kids headed straight for the water despite the cold! They had a good time splashing each other and then we warmed them up in a change of clothes. Running on the sand and collecting shells did them a world of good after so many days cooped up in the car. On our way home we passed by Cancale to show them the oyster beds and this time the tide was even further out and we could see there were more than twice as many beds as we saw on Sunday – a huge area of probably 50 hectares. The oyster farmers were busy finishing off their harvest with their tractors out on the sand. We succumbed to temptation and bought another dozen each! Francoise taught us how to open them with the special knife and glove when we got home. She also spoilt Ray and Michael by preparing them a steak tartare each!
Wednesday 28 May
Today Carmen & family went to visit the beautiful medieval town of Dinon while we visited St Malo, “la ville des corsairs” – the pirate town. It too is wonderfully preserved and rebuilt in replica after the destruction of the second world war. Its great walls are intact – guarding the entrance to the river with a network of smaller forts on the several of the many nearby islands. It was a cold and windy walk but worth it! Along the esplanade, the 18th century stone mansions – their version of a “beach house” are quite a sight to see. It was especially interesting after seeing the special photographic report on this year’s winter storms during which these same mansions were whipped by giant waves.
In the afternoon, we met up with the family to visit Sr Marie-Xavier, the nun who took such tender care of Carmen during her time as a boarder at the Ursulines in Nantes. She was just delighted to see Carmen and the family and we spent a good hour and half with her.
Thursday 29 May
We were up early today to say goodbye to the family with the intention of getting away early ourselves. This did not happen due to the necessity of doing some washing – always an “ennui” for the traveller. Nevertheless we covered a lot of ground along the coast, visiting more lovely villages and bays – Le Briac sur Mer & St Jacut a la Mer. The most impressive place was the Fort la Latte on its rocky promontory, perfectly restored and presented, the chateau and gardens well protected behind its double walls and drawbridges. Our last stop was the wild and windy Cap Frehel with its great lighthouse and sheer drops to the sea below. The red rocks are formed in strata, layering back with the erosion of wind and wave. Flocks of sea-birds were sheltering on the windward side.
It was 7pm before we arrived home.
Friday 30 May
Given our long day yesterday, we enjoyed a leisurely outing today to finish the spots we missed down the Valley of the Rance, notably St Suliac which is listed as one of the most beautiful villages of France and deservedly so! We enjoyed a picnic on the banks of the Rance before returning via Cancale for more oysters for Francoise and a last Crepe Caramel.
Tomorrow we head off to the battlefields.
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