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Thursday 24 April (This is a double entry - not much access to internet in Corsica!)
Yesterday was a long day’s drive again from Haute Loire to Toulon to catch the ferry to Corsica. Our one tourist stop enroute was the the Auberge Rouge (The Red Inn) which gains its reputation from the fact that its proprietors from long ago were in the habit of murdering any rich travellers who happened to spend the night there. The old inn is preserved and set up as a display – a bit spooky and amusing at the same time. The culprits were caught out finally and brought to justice on the very spot with the guillotine.
We arrived in good time for the ferry, installed ourselves in our cabin and adjourned to the top deck bar for an aperitif at sunset. After a picnic dinner on deck, we saw the boat out through the headlands until it hit the wind and waves of the Mediterranean, then went to bed. With the aid of earplugs and a polaramine, I slept like a top until the 6am call to ready ourselves for disembarkment at Bastia, Corsica.
Today started out badly but has ended superbly. Firstly, we realised just as we finished our breakfast on the front at Bastia, that we had left behind our cooler bag on the boat – not a problem in itself, but Ray’s good Swiss knife is in it. We made inquiries with the result that perhaps they will have it back at Toulon by tomorrow – we’ll see. Then Brigitte realised in our hurry to track down the bag that she had left her scarf at the cafe – no luck with that either – it was gone when she returned. So we explored the old port and town which are quite amazing then set out to do the circuit of Cap Corse, the long “finger” on the northern extremity of the island. Many, many picturesque bays and villages later and many miles of twisting winding roads with each view the Mediterranean coast more breath-taking than the last, lunch in the little fishing of Centuri, we made to St Florent on the west side of the Cap.
From there we drove across the ‘Desert des Agriates’, high stony heathland smothered now in Spring with wild flowers and for the most part, inaccessible except to 4WD. Nature has designed a wonderful garden of wild lavender, rosemary, ground orchids, fennel and many other flowers of all colours. Reaching the highest point, we were rewarded with the view of snowy mountains and a visiting fox who seems to hang around in the hope of being fed by the tourists. Finally, we climbed into the most remote and seemingly deserted heights under the snow capped mountains to suddenly come upon the village of Olmi Capella. Just on the outskirts we found our Chambre d’Hote which is in fact a series of old “Bergeries” or homes for the shepherds. Our hosts were waiting with the most wonderful “apero-dinatoire” –an aperitif which is as substantial as a dinner. We had baguette with “figatelli” (wild pig sausage) toasted on the fire, sanglier (wild pig) pate, Corsican cheese and quiche washed down with a local red wine and followed by a homemade dessert. Our host is a passionate hunter it seems and all his “trophies” can be seen on the wall – pig, deer, elk, ibex pear down at us and there is even a stuffed fox by the fire! We could not fault the hospitality however nor the authenticity of the buildings and their setting under the snow-capped mountains. Rustic is the word that springs to mind but that would imply a lack of comfort which is not the case. We can’t wait to wake up in the morning in the mountains.
Sunday 27 April,
Not sure when this will be posted but to continue Part 1 of our Corsican adventure on the northern half of the island. Our hostess, Marie-Ange has fed us like kings 3 mornings in a row, each day better than the last! A selection of 5 home-made jams, fresh bread, pain chocolat, and various pastries and savoury quiches made fresh each day and she sent us off today with the remainders to keep us going.
On Friday we covered a lot of ground, visiting Isle Rousse, then returning to Bastia to collect our well-travelled cooler bag & Swiss knife – they had been to Italy and back in the interval. When the fellow rang to say the bag was there, he asked us to hurry up and collect it as it smelt bad – the cheese we had was getting pretty ripe by then! Yesterday was an even longer day, starting with a visit to the hilltop village of St Antonino, its streets and passages winding in labyrinthine style up to the fort on top with a clear view of any approaching enemy. For once we found a good restaurant with a local authentic menu at a good price so we treated ourselves to lunch in lieu of our usual picnic. Our next stop was Calvi, then Porto where we hoped to take a boat ride around the spectacular cliffs that are a feature of the western shoreline. No luck as the sea was too rough but we got to drive around the “Calanches” as they are called – spectacular red rock cliffs carved in intricate patterns by the wind and a road to beat all roads as far as “drop-offs” go.
A word about the roads is in order at this point (so glad I’m not driving!). The roads literally serpentine their way through the mountains and in and out of the many bays and inlets on the coast. Often there is no guard-rail between us and a sheer drop and when there is, it is only a low stone wall or even just a few rocks set in the ground. The hair-pin corners are not marked with any kind of indication, not even an arrow, nor are there any advisory speed signs. It is not unusual to have to back up to allow the uphill car right of passage. Thank heavens we are not here in summer when the traffic is heavy and there are heaps of camping cars as well trying to negotiate the corners.
Today we left the mountains to head south to the coast via the inland city of Corte, the capital – another old town with citadelle in the centre and views up the valleys in all directions for defensive purposes. It is here that a university has been set up with all faculties studying in the Corsican language. The Corsicans are fiercely proud of their heritage and many would like to be independent of France. There is quite an Italian flavour to the place as it once belonged to Italy but you don’t say that to a Corsican either! Road signs with place names are written in Corsican and French (mostly only a few differences in the vowels) but the Corsicans love to obliterate the French version leaving only their own. It is very amusing and sometimes confusing.
Just south of Corte, we took a detour up the Gorges de la Restonica on yet another precipitous narrow winding road. Once you could camp in the gorge but since all the campers were washed away by a flash flood, it is now no longer allowed. Far below we could see canoeists risking their lives through the rocky swirls and eddies of the rushing mountain stream while above the snowy peaks towered. Unfortunately, a washout prevented us from reaching the bergeries at the end of the gorge but it was nevertheless a wonderful drive.
We are now installed for the next 5 days in a small beach house just north of Bonifacio near a village called Pianotolli-Calderello. Don’t you love the names! So Italian and the biscuits we are eating for supper are called Canistrelli – very yummy, flavoured with aniseed. Looking forward to exploring the south where Brigitte spent every summer for 16 years free camping on the beach with her friends and family.
- comments
Roslyn Marston Hello Mary & John, Thinking of you both lots and loving being here, at the same time envy your experience . All well here, had some rain, meant to rain in the next few days. All new plants still living, chooks happy, garden looks beautiful, lots of native plants outing bloom. We have had hot weather, then rain so that explains the flowers. Veggie garden growing extremely well. Warm regards and love Roslyn x
Christine Hackwood Hi there travellers ... you continue to amaze us with your exploits and we hope that you stay safe and well as you enjoy Corsica. Many happy returns of the day for the 2nd Ray! XX Christine and Jim