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Neil Armstrong's Travels
We rose bright and early this morning to catch the train back to San Sebastian but someone had got the times mixed up - Antonio! Thankfully my 'suegro' was up with the lark as usual and quickly drove us the 15 minute drop across to San Sebastian.
It was a beautiful morning and we were in great spirits. We took some fantastic photos along the practically deserted 'Concha' beach and watched a group of early morning runners set off in the direction of the Old Town!
Unbelievably for the first time on our trip, we got lost. How on earth could you manage that...simple, we couldn't find a Waymark to get us off and running. Eva spoke to a local who pointed us in the right direction and off we went. A bit of a climb up through a residential and then forested area brought us up to a par with Igeldo and provided great views back over 'La Concha' and San Sebastian. With the sea to our right we knew today's walk would be straightforward and we plodded merrily along. Matthew had got into a habit of sticking his headphones in and leading the way, taking the odd look back to ensure we hadn't veered off track.
We were walking through a small residential area when we saw various pilgrims ahead of us. The day before we had met a Belgian couple who had said hello and asked where we were headed. They were only going as far as their legs dictated and actually ended up stopping in Pasajes for the night. The photographs below will show the stop where we met these new pilgrims. The first lady we met was Spanish and was walking alone. There was a colourful little table where you could stamp your credential and sign a log book to record your visit. Water was also provided free of charge with a very distinctine "Do Not Leave Money" as well as a range of sticks. The theory with the sticks is that you take it as far as you need it and then leave it for another pilgrim coming behind to use if they so wish. The Spanish lady explained that the owner of the house across the narrow street provided this stop and had actually baked them some biscuits which they had conveniently devoured just before our arrival. The owner had gone back inside to have his own breakfast so we took a few snaps and got ready to move on.
There was another couple just ahead of us who heard the boys' accents and she turned to us and asked where we were from. We explained that we were Northern Irish and she said she was too, but had left the North when she was quite young.
"Which town"? she enquired..."Bangor" we replied...well wouldn't you know it, she too was from Bangor, the Brunswick Road of all places (for those of you who know the town). We walked a while and chatted, they too explaining that they were on a two week schedule so they would see just how far it might take them. She said that she had experienced the much more popular Camino Frances but found that it turned into a daily race between Albergues (Al-Berg-Ays) and she liked the more relaxed atmosphere of the Norte. We wished them well and forged ahead, Juanita's home cooking and a big lunch beckoning to us from Zarautz.
We eventually arrived at the Church at San Martin which overlooks Orio. Eva and I had attended the wedding of Xabi and Maider a few years earlier in the beautiful little church and it was great to come back again. A little furher on towards Orio is an Albergue which again was a great set up. Although we were not staying we wanted to show the boys what an Albergue looked like with all the camp beds and dining areas. This one in particular was immaculately maintained and we were again able to stamp our credentials and refill our water containers. The weather was fantastic and somebody, we assume the lady who looks after this Albergue, wished us 'Buen Camino' as we left and headed down into Orio.
As we know the town so well we moved on around the river and up the hill to Talai Mendi where a well deserved beer was bought and Eva chatted to the owner who she actually knew. Antonio came and drove the boys back to the house and Eva and I walked the final couple of kilometres down to Araba Kalea and her parents house where a shower, another beer and the promise of a night out in town awaited us all.
The Sociedad ~ The Basque Country
This is my experience of visiting many 'Sociedads' in Zarautz. Sociedad means society or in this case 'Club' and they are basically restaurants in the community without any staff. Yes, you are the chef, the waiter and front of house. Our brother-in-law Kintxo and his wife, Eva's sister, Josune have recently joined a new and exclusive 'Sociedad' in Zarautz situated right on the beach. The video below will give you an idea. Basically the club provides the kitchen, all drinks in fridges and of course the dining area furniture and cutlery etc. All you have to do as a member is reserve your table and then bring along and cook your chosen recipe.
Just last Christmas Kintxo and I were preparing a meal. I was cleaning and preparing 'Ensalada' when a gentleman walked in who I thought I recognised...well in fact I had recognised him, it was the famous Karlos Arguiñano, a famous chef from Zarautz. His restaurant was some ten minutes away but I could understand that he too needed to have somewhere away from the limelight and his work, so he too is a member here. Kintxo was busy preparing mayonnaise when he let out a scream in frustration.
'Que pasa' Karlos shouted across the kitchen. The mayo was not mixing and to Kintxo's delight (and slight embarassment for he is an expert normally at making up the mayonnaise) Karlos glided across the kitchen, added another egg, give it a quick mix, winked at me like he was saying 'I'm an expert you know' and handed it back to Kintxo saying, no panic, easily fixed!
Anyway, the food is prepared and served and the drinks flow. Basque cider is delicious so would always be my personal preference though there are all types of wines, beers and spirits...and soft drinks of course and ice creams for the kids. You hold onto any of the drink bottles which you consume and then make up your own bill and pay for it at the end of the night. It's very clever and keeps costs for a night out to an absolute minimum. I know of some people that wouldn't think twice of eating out in the club three nights a week. It is all of course based on trust that everyone pays for what they consume and I fear in some parts of the world the concept might not work but here it is a priviledge to be a member so to cheat your fellow members and yourself does not appear to be an issue.
Basic Mayonnaise Recipe:
'Place one large egg in a bowl and mix with a pinch of salt and a drop of vinegar. Add 1/4 litre of Olive Oil. Using a mixer go straight to the bottom of the mix and hold it there until it starts to turn white. Don't rush it or the mayonnaise may "break," meaning the oil will separate from the egg. Add chopped garlic if you want a garlic mayo'.
Kintxo Garayar, October 2013.
It was a beautiful morning and we were in great spirits. We took some fantastic photos along the practically deserted 'Concha' beach and watched a group of early morning runners set off in the direction of the Old Town!
Unbelievably for the first time on our trip, we got lost. How on earth could you manage that...simple, we couldn't find a Waymark to get us off and running. Eva spoke to a local who pointed us in the right direction and off we went. A bit of a climb up through a residential and then forested area brought us up to a par with Igeldo and provided great views back over 'La Concha' and San Sebastian. With the sea to our right we knew today's walk would be straightforward and we plodded merrily along. Matthew had got into a habit of sticking his headphones in and leading the way, taking the odd look back to ensure we hadn't veered off track.
We were walking through a small residential area when we saw various pilgrims ahead of us. The day before we had met a Belgian couple who had said hello and asked where we were headed. They were only going as far as their legs dictated and actually ended up stopping in Pasajes for the night. The photographs below will show the stop where we met these new pilgrims. The first lady we met was Spanish and was walking alone. There was a colourful little table where you could stamp your credential and sign a log book to record your visit. Water was also provided free of charge with a very distinctine "Do Not Leave Money" as well as a range of sticks. The theory with the sticks is that you take it as far as you need it and then leave it for another pilgrim coming behind to use if they so wish. The Spanish lady explained that the owner of the house across the narrow street provided this stop and had actually baked them some biscuits which they had conveniently devoured just before our arrival. The owner had gone back inside to have his own breakfast so we took a few snaps and got ready to move on.
There was another couple just ahead of us who heard the boys' accents and she turned to us and asked where we were from. We explained that we were Northern Irish and she said she was too, but had left the North when she was quite young.
"Which town"? she enquired..."Bangor" we replied...well wouldn't you know it, she too was from Bangor, the Brunswick Road of all places (for those of you who know the town). We walked a while and chatted, they too explaining that they were on a two week schedule so they would see just how far it might take them. She said that she had experienced the much more popular Camino Frances but found that it turned into a daily race between Albergues (Al-Berg-Ays) and she liked the more relaxed atmosphere of the Norte. We wished them well and forged ahead, Juanita's home cooking and a big lunch beckoning to us from Zarautz.
We eventually arrived at the Church at San Martin which overlooks Orio. Eva and I had attended the wedding of Xabi and Maider a few years earlier in the beautiful little church and it was great to come back again. A little furher on towards Orio is an Albergue which again was a great set up. Although we were not staying we wanted to show the boys what an Albergue looked like with all the camp beds and dining areas. This one in particular was immaculately maintained and we were again able to stamp our credentials and refill our water containers. The weather was fantastic and somebody, we assume the lady who looks after this Albergue, wished us 'Buen Camino' as we left and headed down into Orio.
As we know the town so well we moved on around the river and up the hill to Talai Mendi where a well deserved beer was bought and Eva chatted to the owner who she actually knew. Antonio came and drove the boys back to the house and Eva and I walked the final couple of kilometres down to Araba Kalea and her parents house where a shower, another beer and the promise of a night out in town awaited us all.
The Sociedad ~ The Basque Country
This is my experience of visiting many 'Sociedads' in Zarautz. Sociedad means society or in this case 'Club' and they are basically restaurants in the community without any staff. Yes, you are the chef, the waiter and front of house. Our brother-in-law Kintxo and his wife, Eva's sister, Josune have recently joined a new and exclusive 'Sociedad' in Zarautz situated right on the beach. The video below will give you an idea. Basically the club provides the kitchen, all drinks in fridges and of course the dining area furniture and cutlery etc. All you have to do as a member is reserve your table and then bring along and cook your chosen recipe.
Just last Christmas Kintxo and I were preparing a meal. I was cleaning and preparing 'Ensalada' when a gentleman walked in who I thought I recognised...well in fact I had recognised him, it was the famous Karlos Arguiñano, a famous chef from Zarautz. His restaurant was some ten minutes away but I could understand that he too needed to have somewhere away from the limelight and his work, so he too is a member here. Kintxo was busy preparing mayonnaise when he let out a scream in frustration.
'Que pasa' Karlos shouted across the kitchen. The mayo was not mixing and to Kintxo's delight (and slight embarassment for he is an expert normally at making up the mayonnaise) Karlos glided across the kitchen, added another egg, give it a quick mix, winked at me like he was saying 'I'm an expert you know' and handed it back to Kintxo saying, no panic, easily fixed!
Anyway, the food is prepared and served and the drinks flow. Basque cider is delicious so would always be my personal preference though there are all types of wines, beers and spirits...and soft drinks of course and ice creams for the kids. You hold onto any of the drink bottles which you consume and then make up your own bill and pay for it at the end of the night. It's very clever and keeps costs for a night out to an absolute minimum. I know of some people that wouldn't think twice of eating out in the club three nights a week. It is all of course based on trust that everyone pays for what they consume and I fear in some parts of the world the concept might not work but here it is a priviledge to be a member so to cheat your fellow members and yourself does not appear to be an issue.
Basic Mayonnaise Recipe:
'Place one large egg in a bowl and mix with a pinch of salt and a drop of vinegar. Add 1/4 litre of Olive Oil. Using a mixer go straight to the bottom of the mix and hold it there until it starts to turn white. Don't rush it or the mayonnaise may "break," meaning the oil will separate from the egg. Add chopped garlic if you want a garlic mayo'.
Kintxo Garayar, October 2013.
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