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Shaking The Tree 2005
Dear All
I wrote to you last from the shores of Lake Wanaka still breathless from the flight over the Glaciers, well I pitched my van in Wanaka for a few days and enjoyed beautiful blue skies and amazing sunsets. I did the 6km round trip into town on foot a few times to earn bonus points to allow me to enjoy a strawberries and cream ice cream whilst watching the world go by.
From Wanaka I drove over the Crown Pass, Australasia highest tarmac road, and again concentrated hard on the hairpin bends that double backed on themselves at what felt like a 45 degree descent! This pass takes you from Wanaka to Queenstown. Queenstown is where I wanted to live last time I came here. Not now, everyone else had the same idea and the sleepy little ski town is now huge. It is still the extreme sports capital and you can jump off everything, jet boat around anything and drink just about anything - including vodka in an ice bar. But it was not for me this time and I just kept on driving.
I had stopped at Arrowtown, a really quaint little village, where the original weatherboard houses and staging posts have been restored and gallery after sweet shop greet you. I tried a fantastic chilli chocolate, that nearly blew your head off but was strangely addictive.
So I pushed on to Milford Sound, from where I wanted to cruise the sound. Stunning snow capped mountains and green fields guided you through to Te Anau where you start the famous Milford Road. This is a 240km round trip with no petrol stations, more on that later, and the infamous Homer Tunnel.
I set off with just under a full tank and hoped to make Milford Lodge before night fall. The road started off fine, and then more twists and turns, second gear up hills, first gear down hill. The blue skies had clouded over and wind and rain accompanied me. I have now aged 10 years due to the wrinkles caused by concentrating sooooooo hard for so long. By law you have to carry snow chains for this road until the end of September, and there are signs everywhere forbidding you to stop as this is avalanche country. Rocks litter the road in places and the road road narrows usually on bend so that if you meet another campervan coming the other way, God help you ! My petrol guage is dipping violently from 3/4 to 1/4 full. I am not a happy bunny. There is no radio or mobile signal and I am a little tense - I can tell you.
I reach the homer tunnel, this is down hill and dark! The walls have been blasted and left as rough as the day the dynamite exploded there is water cascading down the rocks. I now know why people always head towards the light at the end of the tunnel. Straight after the tunnel more hairpin bends and huffing and puffing, my arms are tired from feeding the steering wheel through and my clutch thigh is aching from changing gear too much...
Then at last Milford Sound Lodge - I take the last campervan space and go get my self a beer. I figure I deserve it... I meet up with Dee and Ollie from Bristol and as the Stiff Upper Lips we enter a pub quiz at the only venue in town. Cafe / Pub / Restuarant / Tour Booking Place. We were winning at half time and this did not go down well with the locas. Luckily our naming of 20 muppets let us down and we came an admirable 3rd.
I had parked next to 2 families who were on holiday with there 7 1/2 children, yep one lady was pregnant again. I had left my window down and they kindly tried to wind up the window but not in time to stop and infestation of NZ Blackfly or Sandfly. These little mouths with wings feasted on Pom a la carte biting me on the face twice, the lips once and my hands and feet.... Quite a scary look the following day as I reacted with large hard lumps!
The Lodge is in the Rainforest surronding the sound and all power goes at 11pm, so no heater that night. But glow worms light up the forest and the stars, through the cloud were magical. This is well worth a visit...
The following day bought low cloud and rain, and so my cruise did not show the towering Mitre Peak or the sheer cliffs that make Milford a World Heritage site. But the rain meant the waterfalls were gushing and we did see some seals and and a rare penguin...
Then came the drive back and more bends in wind and rain, the Homer Tunnel and a petrol guage wilding showing nearly full and nearly empty. Panicking that I would not be able to get back I pulled off a hand brake turn into a dirt track that promised emergency petrol. In my rearview mirror I saw the passenger cover her eyes and my heart nearly pounded out of my chest but 10 extra litres of petrol were got and I arrived at Te Anau safe and sound, if not a little stressed.
I met up with my neighbours from Milford who had recommended the camp site, I enjoyed my first Black Russian (drink that is) and spent an enjoyable evening as part of the extended family. The children had been told that they had to wash up every night as part of their trip chores, so even my dishes were washed !
Next morning so blue sky and a long drive to Lake Tekapo. I passed lake so blue the defy any description my limited vocab can bring. Lake Pukaki especially with Mount Cook in the background just took your breath away. The campsite at Lake TEkapo was right next to the Lake, and whilst admiring the view I was adopted into another family from Canberra - who shared a glass or 2 of wine and watched the sun set on the lake.
Here the sky was clear and you could see the milkyway and Southern Cross in all their glory. No more sandflys and restful night was had by the lake.
I have now swapped my backpackers van for a luxury 4 berth VW, which is HUGE! This luxury with shower and toliet comes at the $4 a day price tag and I am just about to head onto the free Ferry again. I hope to make it to the Waitomo Caves before dropping the van back in Auckland on the 3rd.
So I say farewell to Middle Earth to the snow capped alps and ice blue lakes and I say kia Ora North Island - hopefully without throwing up on the ferry getting there.
Please write with news from home, as it will be more difficult to collect news when I head off feom Auckland.....
Love
Lynne
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