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So here we are in Cuzco, Peru. Not sure if its the jetlag, altitude or lack of sleep but I have been doing a lot of sleeping. But we´re in the zone again now after getting out and about. We started our Peru experience by having some cheap basic carb on carb dinner – pasta soup followed by potatoes and rice, with a few scraps of meat and onion. Thats what you get for 2 soles each though (under 50p). It was still kind of good as it is quite cold at night.
The first real day here we went to the Museo Inka and managed to trail a guided tour in English. It has lots of pre-Inca and Inca relics, like queros (drinking vessels), metal and gold work, jewelry, textiles, mummies etc. It even had a mummified Peruvian hairless dog. We learnt the difference between alpaca and llama (I think its to do with neck and hair length, alpacas having short hair/necks), and some of the Incan practices. They observed the stars using bowls of water, to determine seasons, climate, harvest etc. Plus they had an early form of computer using strategically placed knots in lines of thread. It is thought that they recorded onformation on harvests, births, deaths etc, but no-one knows for sure as apparently the Spanish killed those who did know.
We´ve enjoyed sitting around and visiting the markets to buy llama-themed woollies, and just people watching. We saw some school children doing a march (its a common thing), and some women dancing round a singing man in the middle of the day. We saw the 12-sided stone and impressive Inca walls. We found a better place for dinner, (4 soles!) which we have now been to twice.
Yesterday we got a collectivo taxi to Chinchero, where we walked around and admired the views – green patchwork hills sourrounded by snow-capped mountains, from the tranquil village. The people we saw here were mostly wearing traditional clothing. Then we went on to Moray. This is another Inca site which, it is thought, was probably an agricultural testing ground, as each circular layer has its’ own microclimate with 5 degrees difference in temperature between each one. There are a number of these depressions, all as beautiful as the surrounding scenery. After this we went to the Salinas. These salt pans use the salty water from a natural spring to make salt licks for animals. The brown and white pans look amazing, nestling on the side of another beautiful valley. We ended up getting really sunburnt (stupidly it is the first day I did not use sunblock, and it ended up being scorching). More menu economico for almuerzo (lunch). We might get fat on these 3 course dinners, but as Lawrence pointed out its more likely to be the additional icecream than the soup course that does it.
We were looking forward to moving to our new hotel on Friday – its part of the Intrepid Inca Trail tour we booked more than a year ago. We had seen in Lonely Planet that our new hotel (already paid for) was in the “mid-range” section, and we couldn’t wait to see what this upgrade would mean! And it is actually quite nice and central, with a beautiful sunny courtyard and ensuite bathroom. Just a bit more classy but not luxury. Still, its going to be the best we get whilst travelling. Last night we met our tour leader, who informed us that we are the only two on the tour, so that will be good (I think). However, there will be loads of people also doing the same trek with other groups, so its not going to be private. Then she told us that there is going to be a strike, and that the train back to Cuzco will be blocked. It actually turned out to be to our advantage (we hope), as we will have to spend the night in Agua Calientes, so we have more time on Machu Picchu and can relax in the hot springs. We got quite excited as she outlined our route, although I am a tiny bit worried about my knee, and the 4/5am starts followed by 7 hours of walking for the next 4 days. Some people in our hotel just came back from a trek; five people started it but only two finished, and one person had to be taken back on a stretcher. Hmm. But they also said how amazing it was, even though they spent the whole time throwing up.
So, until afterwards…
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