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Finally, back on-line to bring anyone who still interested up to date.............
I think we were just about to leave Aqaba, Jordan via a ferry to Nuweiba, Egypt. We figured that the lunchtime fast ferry was the best option as the slow one left at midnight and attempting customs clearance at 3am was not something we really wanted.
So once again we packed up the bikes and prepared for another border crossing, lets see how much money they want..........and more importantly are they going to be a happy bunch of immigration officers, probably not!
Now Aqaba ferry terminal must be the only one where you can't buy tickets there, so we had to turn around and head back into town to locate the office. Luckily there was one not too far away but they didn't take credit cards...........s*** ! Not to worry, there was a bank and another 'so called' office across the road, or so we were informed by this man who had appeared from nowhere. Feeling a little apprehensive about this situation I reluctantly went along with it, Ed seemed confident, but I was now clock watching. Time was tight for Ed to make it to Hurghada for his flight home and we really couldn't afford any delays.
Still they didn't take credit card so we ran downstairs to use the ATM, but that didn't accept our cards, but don't worry they could do a point of sale on the card - how long was this going to take.
Finally, tickets obtained, money paid - cheaper than I'd originally been quoted and we were off.
Arrived at the ferry terminal, showed tickets and passports, we were in !! It was then I rounded a corner and saw 3 more bikes plus a support vehicle! Turns out they were Turkish bikers coming from Bodrum and attempting to reach Cape Town by end of February. Of course through all this you have to pay for the honour of leaving the country, OK! How much now ? 8 dinar for me and 5 dinar for the bike, well that didn't hurt too much !
Once safely on board we began talking to the other bikers, turns out they had an old friend from turkey who ran a dive centre in Dahab - only 60km south of Nuweiba. This was going to be a good option, it was a sure outcome that customs clearance was going to take a while and we would be riding in the dark, then to try and find accomodation in an unknown town. They very kindly invited us along with them which we gratefully accepted, this was going to take the pressure off the border entry.
Meantime, on board we changed more money, grabbed some food and Ed had some fun filming the locals. We also got our visas checked and stamped, so once again we were in but what about the bikes ? This was the country that had the most expensive carnet requirements, all paperwork had to be correct.
After what seemed like ages, we were all finally allowed to leave the ferry and attempt customs. Now at this point I was given a pink slip of paper which was to be presented on arrival at the customs check point. So I handed it in at a window along with my carnet - problem !!! My name had been written incorrectly, I must go back to the ferry and get it changed..........so I rushed back and after several re-writes it was sorted. Back to the customs point !
Handed back the pink slip again along with the carnet - its OK - sigh of relief ! Next window ! More questions from customs ! More windows ! More money !
I will attempt to recall this sequence of events that allows you to ride your bike on these wonderful Egyptian roads - yes I'm being sarcastic !
First you hand in the pink slip and carnet (pay 510LE about £60), next you take it to another window where you get given a folder with more paperwork (pay 30LE), all documents were photocopied, then back to another window, carnet gets signed, put into the folder, go another window for insurance (pay 50LE), another slip of paper, then back to the window where the carnet has been signed, get given paperwork back to take to a door where customs then take it so an Egyptian driving licence and plates are issued (pay 100LE). In the meantime the bike is checked and a rubbing of the VIN taken, which is placed in your folder. Finally, when all is paid, licence plates attached we are ready to role! Or are we ? We're stopped just before leaving ! All the paperwork needs to be re-checked and logged ! Finally, we are ready to role..................
So, this doesn't sound too bad ! Right? Wrong!
During all my travels I've learnt that in many countries queuing or being quick doesn't exist and this country was no exception. Locals are constantly pushing in, mobile phones go off, phone calls taken, cigarette and tea/coffee breaks happen. So what should possibly take an hour at most now takes about 3 !! Mix this with the whirlwind of paperwork, money changing hands and no language in common, it can be an exhausting and lengthy process.
The light has now gone, a 70km night ride no ahead on unfamiliar roads where we really don't know what condition they are in. Add to that the police check points, these occur on entry and exit to all towns, most times they don't want anything, sometimes a quick passport check and the odd question as to where your heading. No problem ! Our journey was made much easier by the big 4x4 support vehicle lighting our way ....................
Our stop for the night was a very basic hut, pretty much on Dahab beach, actually no more than a shed, but it was good enough and we had a great evening with the turkish bikers - plus one estonian girl ! Unfortunately, our schedule was tight, we had to get to Hurghada by friday and we were unable to stay an extra night with them.
Next day we said our goodbyes, gathered some information about which route was best to take - not the St Catherines road as it was through the mountains and snow had been reported, too cold ! OK for possibly 50km but not 200km ! And off we set for a long days ride, first towards Sharm El Sheikh, then up towards Suez before finally stopping at our goal town of Ain Sokhna - just 300km north of Hurghada. And no we didn't go over the Suez canal, that bridge was much further north, we went under it !! Pretty underwhelming I have to say.......
In Dahab we stayed in a shed for €5 each, now we were stuck in this huge hotel complex, talk about mixing it up, this place could've housed a small city!
Currently, I'm in Hurghada waiting out the christmas season, Ed caught his flight and I'm waiting for my spares to arrive from UK! Message is they've cleared Port Said and should arrive today.......
Next move ? Who knows ? The elections take place in Sudan on the 9th January! Reports say that civil unrest may occur, the embassy is advising against all unnecessary travel with sporadic attacks on tourists! If you have to travel, make sure you have several days food packed and stay away from certain areas !
Alternative, is a ferry from Alexandria to Venice ! But this would take us straight into Europe in the midst of winter - not good! Another option is the expensive route through Libya, where we would need an escort, whose expenses have to be paid! Would there be enough vehicles at the border to share the cost?
Or we call it a day and ship back to the UK with a future plan of shipping back to Kenya and continue what we started. In between time other trips will be undertaken...........already have loads of ideas !
On another note, I've just been informed my bike has yet another recall! Front disc brake bolts and wheel spacer........happy days !
For now this blog is up to date, some photos will follow ! Hopefully, Ed will post some more along with video ! Apologies if anyone was expecting helmet cam footage but the camera is not working properly and there has been no time to sort it, maybe in the new year !
MERRY CHRISTMAS AND A HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!!
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