Ice cream buying tip #1: casually mention that it's your birthday when ordering.
Today's weather was absolutely perfect for a hike (warm sun with a cool breeze) so we took the 90 minute trek up Srd Hill for a visit to the Imperial Fortress. Aside from the spectacular views of the city and the shimmering Adriatic, we also got an unexpected history lesson on the Croatian War of Independence that ravaged much of Dubrovnik's historic old town. Walking around here it's hard to imagine that only 20 years ago there was a war being fought in these streets, but the museum certainly brought that fact to light. We learned that at the height of the Serb aggression in 1991, over 600 missiles hit the old town in a single day, in an area that is probably only the size of about four city blocks. Unreal.