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The two most important words/phrases to know in South America are 'peligro' and 'mas o menos'. Learnt these both in haste in ways which could not be forgotten.
Peligro means danger, something you realize when a tanker full of fuel goes past you at 140kmph on a very windy road along Lake Titicaca. A hair raising experience at the best of times especially when the 78 yo kiwi guy in front of you has gone for the oxygen cylinder (be it out of pure adrenalin or the fact we're 3500m above sea level).
Mas o Menos is pure Latin America with a basic translation of thereabouts. It should be taken into consideration at all times where schedules are concerned. If the bus is scheduled for 11am mas o menos, the commuter should arrive 15 mins before (just in case) usually to wait til 30 mins after the departure time or when the bus has been filled, which ever occurs first.
Lake Titicaca is the highest navigaaible lake in the world or that's its claim to fame. Water is bitterly cold, as is the wind that that whips off it on the 3 hour round trip to the Isle de Sol or sun trap as it was renamed by our boat. No one could quite work out why we went there except there was a boat waiting and it cost 50p. That said, the lake itself was very beautiful with the snow caped Andes behind it.
Cusco and the Inca Trail were amazing. Not going to attempt to describe the Inca Trail and Machu Pichu, the pics speak for themselves. Had a great crew for the trek, 15 hikers, 25 porters, 3 cooks, 2 guides we were quite the motley crew. A good mix of English, Spanish, pigeon English/Spanish and even some Quechua dialect (the local tongue of the porters) ensured some highly amusing conversations.
Highlights were as follows:
- Hikers vs porters/locals 4 way football tournament for pride and 1PEN (about 25p) at 3200m after the first day.
- Finishing the 1300m/4.5hour climb to 'dead woman's pass' on the second day
- The heavens opening midpoint on the 3rd day much to the delight of Dave the Manchurian who up til then had been extremely put out by not being able to use the US Army knockoff wet weather gear he'd bought from Vietnam.
- The aforementioned wet weather gear failing within10 mins of its inauguration and Dave having to leg it to the lunch spot and look in envy as the 25p poncho's purchased 10 mins before the hike had outshone his more fancy attire.
- Final day walk through the sub rainforest, The Sun Gate and Machu Pichu itself.
- Pisco Sours (local cocktail) in the hot springs after completing the bus down to Aguas Calientes then more at the Salsa Club that evening.
For those contemplating the trek, you should do it! Meals are first class, Michelin stars pending. Sanitary conditions are not so remember, pack your own toilet paper (this holds for all South American loo's), get in early doors or find solitude and live the hikers adage that 'natures good'.
Points I was asked to ensure were noted in this blog by our guide, Percy (Paul/Turk/Greeny/Burls….different type of 'percy').
1)Its not the lost city of Machu Pichu……the Quechua's never lost the city, its was abandoned but the local tribes still knew where it was.
2)Guinea Pig…….yes it can be eaten, not sure I liked it much though but it's the local delicacy.
3)Llama….it too can be eaten. Very tasty, quite similar to mutton.
4)Peru, it's a great place to go.
Hmmm, that's a community service, wonder if the magistrate will agree.
From here a few days in Mancora on the far north coast of Peru was nice. Not a lot of waves around and no hot shower but it didn't matter as the temp never dropped below 23deg anyway.
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