Huaraz: Up Close and Personal

It's hard to describe Huaraz…we wish that people at home could come and see it just to see how different life here really is. But, since that's not possible we'll do our best to give you some idea by describing our walk to the market…

As we emerge from our apartment we´re greeted by the sounds of the roosters next door that never seem to sleep. This is mixed with the noises of the pigs from across the road and the guy who blasts announcements from the megaphone attached to his cart. Every time we step out the door the first thing we notice are the awesome mountains surrounding Huaraz, so beautiful! As we wander down the road we usually pass at least two or three borrachos (drunk men) stumbling past us before we reach the corner (seems to be a real problem in Huaraz). At the corner we walk past our local internet place, a mechanic's and a few stalls selling herbs, sweets, drinks and a local corn dish. Music blasts from all around (usually the same song on repeat), and horns and alarms join in at various points. Electronic beats and local ranchera music are the favourites. People will stare at us unashamedly and whistle, sometimes shouting 'gringo'or 'gringa' as we walk past. Cars beep loudly as they drive by - some are taxis and some are just randomers in their cars who want to make a few soles. At various times along the way we'll move on to the road to avoid dead rats splattered on the ground, chickens scuttling about and bands of dogs looking for a fight.

As we dander along the maze of streets we're met with loud, brightly coloured signs and stalls, shops and cafes of all varieties. The most popular restaurants are either those that sell roast chicken and chips, or the 'menu' places that offer local delicacies such as raw fish, guinea pig and beef stir fry (a dish 'borrowed' from the Chinese but claimed as their own). One thing can be said for the folk here - they're very creative and resourceful. People in the street offer their typewriting skills, local produce (anything and everything), shoe-shining, rides on llamas with sunglasses or other wooden animals and regional tours to name a few. There's also a lot of begging by old and young - in the streets, in shops, in restaurants and we were even followed around the minimarket the other day by an 8 year old boy who wanted us to buy him an ice-cream - how could we refuse?! The main square is a permanent reminder of the earthquake of 1970 that devastated Huaraz and the surrounding towns (the worst natural disaster in Peru's history, killing over 100,000 people and injuring over 200,000). Many of the bodies were buried beneath the square in mass graves. The plaza is now quite a pretty place with flowers and a fountain and is a popular place for people to sit and watch the world go by…but the main cathedral has yet to be fully restored.

The earthquake is one of the main topics of discussion with the locals, rivalled only by the subject of food. Peruvians love their food. They believe it's one of the best cuisines in the world, coming in a close second behind the French (!) Therefore, it's not surprising that one of the main hives of activity in Huaraz is the central market. The smell hits you as soon as you enter it - a mixture of fish, smelly cheese and dead animals…mmmm nice! Colourful displays of fruit and veg are in every aisle and they're really cheap so we try to visit at least once a week…we're becoming experts at making guacamole! Dead animals greet you at every turn - a trail of blood on the floor showing how fresh they really are!

Huaraz may be loud, brash and busy at times, but one thing it's not is dull!