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Luckily the short flight over was at least some silver lining for the hassle at Chennai airport and the flight itself was fairly uneventful. Sean managed to catch some sleep, much needed, and all too soon it was time to get off.
Colombo airport is a world away from India and Indian airports, people were polite, the immigration was a breeze, getting our luggage and customs no worry at all, and before we knew it we were in arrivals and in Sri Lanka. The woman at the information desk was really helpful and the taxi tout was polite even when we declined his offer. We stopped for a snack before embarking on the next leg of the journey to Kandy. We had decided not to break up the travel to get there as soon as possible to give us a proper rest when we got there.
The loca0l bus to Kandy was not particularly comfortable to begin with as we were stood. In the heat and being ill Sean looked ready to keel over so the bus conductor did all he could to get us seats and a really lovely lady gave hers up for him. A while later the conductor shuffled everyone round so I could sit with him too and the journey from there on was without complaint. Arriving late into Kandy in the dark, and no one having heard of the hostel at which we were supposed to be staying, our tuk tuk driver Bennat took us to a new place and we gratefully settled down for the night.
The owner, who Sean insists is the Sri Lankan Dave Benson Phillips and so he was affectionately named DBF... yes DBF, must have been thinking we were fussy or rude as for the next few days consistently ordered dry toast for Sean. He often tried to offer us more exotic things but the weird British man just wanted dry toast. Early to bed for a much deserved rest.
Feeling better, the next day over breakfast on the verandah, we decided to visit the elephants. Berrat, dreadlocks and all, was waiting for us at the entrance and we were whisked away in the Rasta cab. We first stopped at a private little operation offering rides and baths but the elephants looked so sad in the chains we soon moved on and went to Pinewalla Elephant Orphanage. The elephants looked very happy. One had 3 and a half legs after an accident with a train. The orphanage rescued him and we think he was happy here. We saw a massive 60 year old elephant with a poorly foot that was getting treatment. He had the hugest tusks. The babies were very cute only three months old and Laura got told off for trying to stroke them. I would like a pet elephant I think but we might need a bigger house.
In the evening we went to the Tooth Temple but weren't allowed in because I was wearing shorts. We didn't want to go in that much anyway so went for dinner in 'The Pub' having good English chicken soup. We spent the rest of the evening on the balcony with a pot of tea and Uno.
After waking up and finding our way to the bus station, and after a lengthy trip to the post office which was just an exercise in repacking and labeling an already packed and labelled parcel, we headed for Siguriya World Heritage Site. When asked what it was like Laura said it's a bit like Snowden you can climb to the top. Foolishly we both thought it was free. After two buses and three hours we arrived with two hours before it closed and found out entry cost more than our flight over to Sri Lanka. We went for a walk around the bottom and sneaked into the museum and then headed out for food. We found the best little hut on the side of the road, while a little swamped with flies, and had our first Sri Lankan curry. It was served cold, we aren't sure if this is right or not, and was spicier than Indian curries which Sean should have loved but still feeling a bit peaky couldn't enjoy it fully :-(
Three hours and two buses back and we were ready for dinner. We should have given the day up as a loss but we were determined to have one successful excursion. The restaurant looked beautiful and far above our usual standard of plastic furniture and warm water. Feeling more himself Sean had a chop suey. After waiting 45 mins for it to arrive it was bad. Seafood tasted like it had been scooped from the bottom of the freezer. Lost my appetite immediately and didn't eat a single bite. The waiter came over and I told him I wasn't happy and he swiftly presented us with the bill, for the full amount. Remaining surprisingly calm we waited it out with a battle of wits and patience, refusing to pay for uneaten, and frankly very poor, food and him saying he couldn't or wouldn't do anything for us. We won, he lost his patience and gave us the whole meal free. Always good for the budget. Pleased, and a little tired, afar our victory, we stopped next door at the supermarket where Laura attempted inventive shopping for food for a man who isn't hungry. Sweets, bananas, crackers and ginger biscuits in hand, we went home.
Leaving Sean with his feast I attempted to pay for the room and figure out how to get to our next destination. DBF forgot I'd asked for the bill so perusing the travel magazines I asked what I think was his Dad for help with getting to Nuwara Eliya and beach recommendations. He was more than helpful with all of this and more as for the next half hour I was engaged in a conversation about Islamic evangelicalism; it's not a religion it's a solution, and being convinced to have children now before I get too old, there is always time for travelling after children when I hand over my business to them. The good news is I only have to wait until we're 50 until we continue with our travels so until then...
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