Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
There have been times duing this trip when I thought it might have been a good idea to travel as part of a tour group, as many of you suggested. However, today was totaly validation for me as to why I'm betting off solo.
Keep in mind that I have been planning this trip off and on for almost 2 years....or at least variations of this trip. The primary tool I used was trip advisor's france forum. With the forum, people post questions, and "expects" give answers. At some point in the past, the topic of Marquis de Lafayette's burial place came up on the forum as a unique place to visit. I was immediately intrigued, as I have always found Lafayette an interesting character. If you aren't up on your US history, Lafayette was a rich french kid with noble blood ('marquis") who decided to come to the US and help out for free during the Revolutionary War. He goes on to great military success, convinced the French to aid the US against the Brits, and is key figure in US history. On the forum I had read that a US flag flied at Lafayette's grave, and a local chapter of some organization (maybe the DAR) make sure the gravesite is maintained. Today was "find Lafayette" day.
The first challenge was getting to the cemetary when it it open. It is the only private cemetery in Paris, and it is open from 2-4pm certain days of the week. Moreover, it is hidden behind a doorway on a regular street...if you aren't looking for it, you would never know it is there. All this does is entice me more.
As it turns out, the cemetery (Picpus) is primarily the final resting place for many of those who were sent to the guillotine during the Reign of Terror. OK, history lesson time. In the 1700's the nobility of France were really rich, and about everyone else was really poor. In 17989, the people revolved against King Louis XVI (wife is Marie Antoinette) and the nobility. In the next few years, chaos ensues as two rival political parties duke it out for power. There were all kinds of execuations happening across the country, targeting those opposed to the revolution. Between June 14 and July 27, 1794, things really get out of hand and 1306 people are sent to the guillotine in Paris. Their ages ranged from 16-85, and there were from all social classes (but the rich and nobility were really targeted.) However, the 1306 included a bunch of Carmelite nuns, so anyone was fair game to the blood thirsty. Charges for death were petty and often false. Things slowed down after July 27 because the guy causing most of the problems was himself sent to the guillotine, and his cronies became scared that they could be next.
To accomodate all these bodies, a couple of mass graves were quickly dug in the garden of a former convent about a 5 mintues walk from the guilllotine, and the corpses were secretly thrown in after dark. One woman, whose father and brother were guillotined, followed the carts one night and saw where the bodies were thrown. Over time, the families of the victims began to meet secretly and buy up the land and surrounding land where the mass graves were (keep in mind many of the killed were rich.) They also solicited a religious order to offer up perpetual prayers for the vicitims. The order is called the Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary and of the Perpetual Adoration of the Most Holy Sacrament of the Alter (a mouthful, I know.) There 'mother house" is a church next to the cemetery, which I also visited. It was, by far, the simplest church I've seen in Paris; very plain. On either side of the alter are 2 large plaques bearing the names of the 1306.
Back to Lafayette. The cemetery is very small and has two sections. One is gated off and is the site of the 2 mass burial plots. The other is an active cemetery, and to be buried there, you must have an ancestor in one of the mass plots. In Lafayette's case, his wife's (who was from a very noble family with strong ties to the king) grandmother, mother and sister were all put to the guillotine and placed in one of the mass graves. Since he is buried with his wife, they were eligible for Picpus.
The cemetery is very interesting, and I took a number of pictures. It is really a collection of family cemeteries, and some of the names were familiar to me as streets and neighborhoods in Paris. Even the graves of those more recent included noble titles; I even saw some Princes and Princesses. I spent about an hour at the cemetery and church, and it will probably be one of the highlights of my time in Paris. There was one other couple on the grounds the entire time I was there.
Prior to the cemetery, I roamed about the neighbhorhood, which has a great arts area. (I was in teh 12th, for those of you familiar with Paris.) I stumbled upon a church, so I went in to explore and was rewarded when the organist started to practice. Another pretty but fairly neglected church, this one was significanlty smaller than most others I have seen, and it was the first churce to have regular pews and kneelers. Even the local church next to my apartment only has chairs. After the cemetery I went to Montmarte to see the famous church Sacre Coeur, which is on a high hill north of the city and gives some of the best views of Paris. It is also the home of the Moulin Rouge, was once home to seedie behavior and many great artists (Picasso, Monet, etc.) It is still a bit of an artist colony, but way touristy. I bought a fairly cute but probably way overpriced piece from an artist working in an open green for 50 euro. After walking around and checking out some shops with the usual crap, I came face to face with my great weakness (where art is concerned)...a pottery store, all of which was made in France (and I think by the same artist.) I bought a piece, and as I was walking out, saw something else. I walked away for about for about 3 minutes, then went back and bought my Christmas present from my parents. Mom, consider me done. This is why I brought an extra peice of luggage for the trip home! From there, I headed home.
Some things I've been meaning to bring up:
Last week when all the news was breaking about General Petraeus' affair, I was in London and had just visited the Imperial War Rooms from WWII. Of course all the talking heads on TV were debating if Petreaus' indicretion was really enough to lead to his resignation, blah blah blah. At the War Rooms gift shops were a bunch of vintage miliary prints, including a couple from a campaign to warn soldiers/sailors from talking to women about military 'stuff". There was one with a beautiful woman being ogled by some miliary, and it said "keep mum, she's not so dumb!" I'm not passing judgement of Petraeus or implying the woman was a spy (I'm not even remotely up on the story), but the timing was ironic.
I think I mentioned before that panhandlers were much more prevalent in Paris. Many are what you see in any city; either sitting on the sidewalk with a cup or approaching and asking for money. However, others utilize the subway system. yesterday a guy hopped on the subway and played his accordian for a few stops before collecting donations and hopping off. Today a bassoonist hopped on and did a fabulous version of Bolero. Others sing. Still others get on and (I assume) tell their story very loudly then move through the car to collect donations. (The are obviously speaking in French, so I can't say for sure what they are saying.)
You have to feel for anyone whose lot in life has reduced them to begging, regardless of the circumstances. On the other hand, Paris also has plenty of scammers and pickpockets. This is something I was fully aware of, again, thanks to the Trip Advisor Travel Forum. Sure enough, I was taking my first walk on my first day here and within 30 minutes saw 'the shell game' being played. (3 shells, one holding an object, guess which one it is.) There were plenty willing to play, so I walked by and was ignored. Shortly after that, aguy is walking towards me and as he approaches me, picks up a gold ring off the ground and starts talking to me. I start to respond that it is not mine, when I remember that this is another common scam. (The person convinces you to take the ring, then says they are hungry and need money, etc.) So I give him a 'non.' and walk away. He follows me and I realize there is no one else really close by, so I looked him in the eye, pointed in the opposite direction, and give him another NON! in my best "I used to work in warehouses; don't screw with me" voice. That was empowering, and I'm glad it happened right off the bat. I haven't had any ohters until tonight, when a couple guys tried to tag team me in Montmarte. It was getting dark, but there were plenty of people around. One good "non!" and they moved on. (And all of this is nothing compared to what I experienced in Atlanta in 2006 when Mark and I were there for the Final Four. Bleeding Heart Mark gave a guy some money and then others came at us like vultures. That was intimidating. The Paris scammers have been less common than I expected, and they move on quickly when they know you are on to their gig.)
In regards to the pickpockets, I'm carrying a backpack everywhere, and I keep a small lock on it so it can't be opened. The lock is chinzy enough I could pick it if I lose the key, but I figure it is enough to get a possible pickpocket to move on to the next person. I feel very safe in Paris. Granted I'm in by 10pm at the latest, but there are always plenty of people around, and in the city center, the police presence is significant.
Bacon update: I owe the French an apology. What I thought was bacon was technically ham (according to their label.) I bought bacon today that is very much like what one can buy in America, and it was delicious. My 8 month pregnant sister is possibly the world's biggest fan of bacon, so I wanted to get that all straightened up.
My 3 year old nephew saw yesterday's pictures and wanted to know if I rode the ferris wheel. No, I did not. So he isn't totally disapointed in me, I'll try to get video of a subway arriving at the station so he can see what I have been riding. That should cause him to come up with hundreds of questions for my sister and brother-in-law.
The plan for tomorrow (with only 2 sightseeing days left, I'm back to planning): a trip to a bascillica in the suburbs called St. Denis. Bunch of former monarchs are buried there, and I've heard it is awesome. Next, the museum on the history of Paris. I'll wrap the day up with the Arc de Triumphe to get some pics of the Christmas lights on the Champs Elysses, which get turned on tomorrow.
Today's pictures include some more storefronts (from the ARts district in the 12th), a lot from Picpus, and just a few from Montmarte. I would have liked to get more in Montmarte, but darkness fell as I was drooling in the pottery store.
- comments