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Day 239- We slowly bounced into the platform at around 6ish and before we could get off the train we had touts shouting out offers for minibuses to Sapa town. We were currently in a town called Lao Cai as it was the closest the train could bring us, it was another hour by minibus to Sapa. So once out the station we started to ask prices, one man quoted 100,000 Dong which we simply laughed at. He kept following us and asking if we wanted it but when we said yes if you make it cheaper he repeatedly quoted 100,000. He wouldn't leave us alone or drop the price and after some marching around the car park like the pied piper followed by an army of touts one man finally shouted 50,000 Dong (the real price) so we collared him and jumped in his minibus. It was 7.30am when he drove into Sapa and he stopped at a hotel where the minibus was obviously sent from. We asked to be dropped at Sapa O'Chau- the office we booked our trek with, but all they babbled on about was how we should stay in their hotel and book with them. They simply don't listen at times but after a lack of movement and repeated orders of Sapa O'Chau they finally agreed and took us to where we wanted. We dropped our bags and set out for a hurried breakfast, on our way we met the infamous H'mong villagers who act friendly with you asking several questions and sounded interested in you in the vain hope that you will buy some of their goods. The ones we came across weren't too pushy at all though and they are so lovely you can see how people easily fall for it. Our trek was due to leave at 9 and along with Eve and I there was only one American joining us, he was a really nice lad and easy to get along with. We walked through Sapa town to the river and then followed it to the first village, Suoi Ho. It was very basic where the local people are of the H'mong tribe and we passed a few small houses, some cute kids and a beautiful surrounding of terraced rice paddies. We started to climb upwards and as the clouds rolled in it became quite chilly but luckily as we pulled out our hoodies we stopped for lunch in Matra village. It was a big bowl of hot beef noodle soup. We couldn't think of a better time to be given this typical dish. It was really hearty and warmed us up ready to tackle the next leg. The last hour or so took us past yet more remote farm houses and rice fields until we arrived at the large village of Ta Phin. This is where our guide May Lai lived, she is part of the Red Dzao tribe and we would be staying in her house with her family for the night. Walking through the village we seen many local villagers and it was great to see them all dressed in their traditional dress just like our guide. As we approached May Lai's house she stopped at a small shop and started talking with a woman who was buying clothes from another woman. The buyer turned out to be May Lai's mother and she was buying wedding clothes for her other daughter. It was quite interesting to watch and we were surprised at how much money they paid for the goods! We were then taken to her house and showed our beds which were surprisingly nice, we actually had a mattress and a mosquito net- luxury for homestays! We sat around the table and met 4 other people who were staying the night. We chatted away then pottered around the house watching the family cook and clean and generally go about their daily lives. There was a Shaman priest in the house blessing and chanting, we were told that a very rare mouse had been seen in the house and now the house was cursed and people would become sick so the shaman was there to get rid of the evil spirits, he was amazing to watch. It was great to see and just before dinner we were treated to a herbal bath, this consisted of a wooden barrel, just say big enough for you to sit in and it was filled with hot water infused with all sorts of herbs and medicines. It smelt fantastic and me and Eve made sure we were the first to dive in, there was only two tubs so we snapped them up and enjoyed a nice soak. After we simply hung around the kitchen area and watched as our guide cooked up some of the dishes that were to be served that night. It wasn't long before we were helping to carry them to the table, it was only small yet about 14 of us managed to fit around it. There was so much food, we couldn't believe it, a choice of, stir fried beef and pepper, pork with onion, fried chicken, two steamed fishes, egg and tofu, an huge array of mixed vegetables and of course lots of steamed rice! The food was very basic, nothing fancy but cooked. About 20 minutes in we were all given a shot of rice wine, we toasted to something in Vietnamese and then knocked it back. It was so strong, pure moonshine! A belly full of food and many, many more shots and obscure toastings later and we were ready for bed. It was an incredible experience to sit and eat with a local village family and follow their cultural ways around the table, we all sat around talking a little while before nodding off.
Day 240- It was too much of an early start, we were eating breakfast by half 8 and disappointingly it was banana and honey pancakes. Fortunately I love them and the honey was locally found by the family and taken in their way traditional method- involves quite a few stings, so we were very grateful they made the effort for us and made what they think us westerners have breakfast. However Eve isn't really a fan and it was disappointing because we paid for a cultural experience and even if the family do eat rice and veg, that is what we also would like to eat. It was duly noted on the feedback form and hopefully taken on board- at least an option would be good. The next half an hour was spent with the family trying to sell us some locally made clothes and goods although they were more than happy with us trying on a lot of them and then our guide May Lai even brought out her wedding outfit that she had made herself to show us. It was beautiful and she was so proud to show us it was brilliant. The women sit in the house for 1 year before their wedding making and sewing intricate patterns on to there wedding dresses. Come 10 o'clock we were on the move again and this time we walked along the mountainside higher up than yesterday given us some spectacular views of the valley ahead and more amazing terraced rice fields. As we descended it started to heat up again and at around 12 we stopped at the side of the path and walked down to a small area overlooking the valley where we had lunch. Again it was disappointing a baguette filled with some form of extremely processed pork and laughing cow cheese with some Asiatic pear after. Again we would have ideally preferred something more traditional. It was only a further 20 minute walk downhill to the road where our pick up was waiting for us, it took us all the way back to Sapa. In the feedback form we mentioned the fact we thought the actual trekking the could have been longer and the food more traditional and after speaking to the staff we think they appreciated some honest opinions. We had a few hours left so along with David we went to the bus station to book our tickets back to Hanoi then onto the market. It was quite small but very authentic, it primarily comprised of local H'mong and Red Dzao villagers buying and selling clothes and food. We found the food area and were recommended the fried pork dish by someone from the tour office and it was as good as they described. From here kept on walking and had lost David by this point so found a cafe and ordered ourselves a well earned beer and coffee. Before we knew it we had to rush back to the office and pick our bags up and head to the station where are bus was waiting. It was yet another long sleepless 11 hours on the bumpy road.
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