Early to rise! If there is one thing our research of this trip has told us its be there early to avoid getting a rubbish seat. We all piled into a van which preceded to take us exactly 20 meters down the road to...er...a backyard really. Passports were checked and yellow slow boat stickers were issued. From there we walked exactly 100 meters down a very steep hill to the Thai immigration office who were very efficient and pleasant I must say. Officially stamped out of the country we waddled down to the 'river ferry' which would take us across the river to Laos. The river ferry is sixty odd long slim wooden boats with a small outboard. Not easy to get into, not easy to get out of...certainly not easy to do either with a big heavy backpack! But amusing :)

The Laos immigration office was typically arcane and confused. Should you ever attempt it, I can explain the process as follows:
1) jump the queue and request an arrivals card from the lady behind the desk
2) after filling out the card, jump the queue and hand to the lady behind the desk along with passport and photo
3) hang around in a small semi circle in front of the desk staring at the 20 people behind it and generally getting in the way of the waves of other tourists trying to figure out 'the process'
4) wait for the man to call your name, pay him and run for the boat

...or run to the man supposed to take you to the boat who insists on waiting for all his customers before proceeding. b*****.

This same man wasted no time trying to flog us sandwiches and beer which he insisted we should only buy from him. He then gathered us all to explain how very dangerous Packbeng is. Thieves and murderers everywhere it would seem. If you haven't already booked your accommodation he has a picture of a lovely guesthouse for 500 baht. I'm not sure if you stay in the room or just get the picture...we politely declined. Man not very happy. He then insisted on taking all our passports which we refused to give him consequently sending him into a cracking tantrum about how we don't understand English. Not funny at the time, quite funny now. A much calmer and reasonable woman was then dispatched to explain why passports were needed which turned out to be legitimate...tanty boy just scowled. Another van trip to the shop around the corner to purchase supplies where reasonable woman admitted her company had rooms in Packbeng for 200 baht. We still declined agitated at the now 2 hour delay and eventually got the green light to get on the slow boat.

***Cue scary what the hell is this going to be like music***

Should you ever contemplate the slow boat trip, ignore the poor advice...it was magic! Two days floating down this stunning river with the occasional Beerlaos, some Talking Heads on the iPod and the most incredible scenery is far far removed from Hades. Toilet was fine, seats were like something out of a discarded airplane (as well as allocated on the first day so all that stress for nothing!) and there was even a bar. We also managed to avoid the dreaded 'engine seat' which I must admit would have been a bit less comfortable.

Thrilled with our good fortune and first taste of Beerlaos we arrived in Packbeng fully prepared for the coming onslaught...of a few blokes who asked if we needed a guesthouse. They didn't even hint at a potential theft or murder. Laos was in fact fast becoming the most laid back place I've ever been to...and I've been to Malawi!

Yummy dinner across from our dilapidated but cheap guesthouse where Noam had to decline the offer of a 'Happy Pancake'.

Early to bed but not before Lis insisted on an early rise the next day to buy more provisions and get to the boat early to ensure a good seat. "Not necessary" insisted Bill, "I spoke to the Captain and we have the same boat tomorrow and the same seats...same same he said, same same..."