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Turning into a Skunk!
No, not because I've grown a bushy tail and started to emit a stink from my rear end (although I do really smell). I made the schoolboy error of glancing in a mirror in a shop last Friday in Port Vila. My hair is 2-tone! I'd forgotten what colour my natural hair is but don't remember it ever being that dark! Thank goodness I've managed to pre-book an appointment for Xmas Eve in Auckland pre-flight.
So, Brae left us last Friday which was sad; she had to get back home for some job interviews. She left a very sweet note for the "whities" though. If you're reading this Brae, thank you. I was really touched by your kind words!
Our journey back to Moso was quite eventful. Firstly, our bus driver was late. After we'd stopped at the supermarket, the bus wouldn't' start so the guys (plus a few random locals) tried to push it through the carpark until they finally conceded that it was fooked. They called the recovery guys who turned up about an hour later and simply plugged in some jump leads. All a bit odd since we were 100 yards from a petrol station and 200 yards from a car shop that also had a mechanic yard in it! Anyhooo, we got to the mountain that crosses the island and there was a huge traffic jam as they resurfaced the road. We finally got home about 3 hours later than expected. More drama than we've had in the whole 3 weeks!
On Saturday we took the boat out round the island again for the day. This time we'd had a brainwave for the BBQ (it was a big worry last time as there is no refrigeration on the island and we'd bought meat that had to sit festering for a night). This time we bought sliced bread, plastic cheese slices and tomatoes and made toasted sandwiches. They were the best sandwiches we'd had......ever!!!
Sunday we were forced again to go to church and watch more hand clapping, hand waving and hallelujahs! Thank Jeremiah it was our last Sunday. Praise the Master!
Turtle Controversy
So, we've found out some interesting info over the last few days. Agatha Christie, eat your heart out. We stopped off at the Tranquillity Dive Resort on Saturday where they have a turtle hatchery. A guy showed us around and they have tanks full of different aged turtles. When they reach 12 months, they release them into the ocean to give them a better chance of survival. I have mixed views on whether this is right or not as in some ways it allows more of them to make it into the water but on the other hand they won't have learnt to survive and feed themselves. Anyway, that's another debate. I asked the guy where they get the turtles from and whether they take the eggs from the nests. Enlighteningly, he told me that they bought the hatchlings from the village. Which village I asked, only to be told Tassiriki which is our village. Hmmm, interesting. So how much do they pay for them and how do they get them? They pay 200 vatu (about GBP1.50) per hatchling and get them every year. He said they were expecting 100 to come in this week. We told Kalo, our project manager who said he would find out the story.
Thinking (naively) that it would all be sorted out, we forgot about it. Last night we headed to turtle beach and didn't see anything until we got to the very end of our trek. Good timing or what? There were tons of hatchlings scampering own the beach having just escaped their nest. It was amazing although we couldn't see a great deal in the dark. They were much stronger than the ones we saw in daylight the other day but these ones were obviously ready to make it to the sea. Anyway, we got up the next day and Kalo looked very grave and said he had found a hatchling on the grass near our bungalows. There is no way it could have got there alone and once they get in the water they don't touch land again for years to come. So, clearly, our friendly beach monitors has stuffed them into their rucksack the night before, presumably to sell to the nearby dive centre and one had fallen out. Spoke to Kalo to find out what would be done about it. He said it would be dealt with in the village as they have their own punishments but not sure how they will deal with it if nobody will admit to it. Of course, now my cynical mind is working overtime and suspecting everyone in the village of being in on it. Next instalment to come on this when we get it ourselves! Needless to say, I'm escalating it (God, I'm still in the corporate mindset!) to the organisation that runs this project remotely as we paid a lot for this and it possibly makes fools of all of us and the overall project. So there!
Cockroach in my bed last night that was squished by my roommate, the remains of which were left on the floor. I woke up in the night and heard a rat scurrying around and the next morning the remains were gone but replaced with a load of rat poo. Milena in the nest room said she had woken up in the night as something was nibbling on her toe through her blanket - a bloody rat! Pant, pant.....only 4 more sleeps to go.
Forgot also to mention last week that we had been to someone's house to watch Love Patrol on DVD. Half the village came and were gathered around a tiny portable TV. A load of kids took a liking to me and were clambering all over my legs. It was then I started to itch and was frantically checking out their heads and bodies for nits and fleas. The last thing I need on top of all the other insects is my own private collection. We've seen a lot of things roaming o the kids but I think these ones were safe. The dogs and cats are covered (which we only realised when we picked up some puppies to cuddle and then chucked them back on the ground)!
Daring to Dive
Overcame another challenge on Tuesday as I arranged to go diving for the day. As some of you may recall, it was a traumatic experience for me when I initially learnt to dive as I still had a psychological block from losing a good friend and colleague to a diving accident 13 years ago. I've also only ever been diving with one person as my buddy so I knew I would struggle with the trust issue and the last time I went diving was well over a year ago so I'd forgotten what to do!. Anyway, got out onto the boat and there was me, a Kiwi guy and the dive instructor, Steve, so a nice small group. I was all raring to go until I got into the water. As soon as I put my head under I started to hyperventilate. I kept signalling to Steve that I wasn't ok and coming back to the surface. After doing this for a good 10 minutes I was on the verge of giving up and almost crying out of frustration with myself when he just told me to take my time and got hold of my arm. It's amazing how reassuring that human touch can sometimes be and, gripping onto him for dear life, I made my way down slowly. Once I got to the bottom I was absolutely fine. We saw some great fish and beautiful coral and even squeezed through a swim through (at which point I battered my Kiwi friend over the head with my fin - accidently I might add). The Kiwi guy had to get back onto his boat in the afternoon so I had lunch with Steve and his wife and then went out for a private dive in the afternoon. This time I had no problem going down and we ended up being underwater for 66 minutes which flew by! Saw loads of cool stuff including a turtle. Definitely back into it so looking forward to the next country where I can go diving. I hear Honduras is amazing but will hopefully get a chance to dive the Galapagos before that - now that would be incredible!
Decided that Steve and his wife have the perfect life. They have been dive instructors all over the world living on tropical islands in the Caribbean, travelling the world on cruise ships and basically love their work. I suppose that's what it's like when you're paid to do your hobby. I need a hobby!!!!
The turtle controversy continues.....
So, whilst out diving for the day, I gleaned some interesting info. The dive centre owns the turtle hatchery and they happened to mention that they had just taken delivery of 193 hatchlings. Where from? Ah, none other than our innocent Kalo had delivered them 2 days ago in a big bag. No wonder he was keen to keep the problem in the village. It seems that the dive centre gives the village a 'donation' for their trouble to avoid it becoming a buy/sell arrangement that could sprout into private selling all over the place. I then started chatting to one of the boys who works with the turtles in the dive centre and it transpires that not only does he live in the village, but he's Kalo's cousin! I then discover that the village supplies the dive centre with the fish to feed the turtles so it's all one big happy family working on this together!It's not the fact they do any of this that pisses me off as I actually think the hatchery is a fairly good idea, it's the fact that they have blatantly lied to us. I'm particularly disappointed in Kalo as he had claimed he was going to stop what they do as he disagrees with it. Yeah right, only when the incoming wonga stops! So, I'm facing the moral dilemma right now of whether to dob them in or not as it will continue regardless.
More spiders these last few days (2 nights and counting!). Hayley did spider patrol the other night so I happily walked into the room when she suddenly told me to step outside immediately. I knew it was somewhere behind me but wasn't sure how far away so I just grabbed her shoulders and stared at her as I shuffled out of the door! She had to get Jo to come and get it as it was too big. No sooner had that one gone when another one appeared in her bed, accompanied by several roaches in the room. Aaaargh! This morning there were blood curdling screams coming from Milena's room as the most enormous spider appeared. Jo came to the rescue again. I saw the remains of it outside and bloody hell, thank God I didn't see it in the flesh. Its legs were the size of my fingers. Only 2 more sleeps to go......
So, today is Friday and we made it into Port Vila for the last ( and VERY final) time after negotiating a very full boat, an even fuller bus, some roadworks on the mountain across the island and an idiot in a car who decided to roll backwards down the mountain and cause chaos!! Went to the beach the final time on Wednesday night and saw a turtle laying so that was good luck. This time I decided to touch its head (have only ever touched its shell and back flippers to date) and she kept craning her neck but I think it was more in agony of childbirth than anything to do with me! Yesterday I did a final walk through the village to get some pics. Ended up at Kalo's house where there was a dead pig hanging (for our farewell feast) covered in flies - mmmm, yummy! Stayed around his brother's house to play a bit with Stanley (Kalo's 2 year old son who appears in almost all of my people pictures!) as he's super cute, even by my standards. Ended u being given a plate of lunch which was quite possibly the best food I had eaten the entire month on the island! We were supposed to be having our grand farewell party last night which is something the village has been talking about from the day we arrived. Hardly anyone turned up (only the string band and that was under duress I'm sure) and they had all b*****ed off by 8pm so we were a bit miffed to say the least. Everyone was in a bit of a weird mood yesterday and today so we think something serious had maybe happened in the village. Who knows? And frankly, who cares? I am outta here!!! Spending today with some of the girls and there's an outdoor cinema showing Ice Age 3 tonight (along with pizza andpopcorn) and then I have to be up at about 4.30am tomorrow to get my flight. One night in Auckland then back to Jeanette's where I plan to get cleaner than I've ever been before!
- comments
Ayumi Gosh, Linda, you really are in the bush!! I am off to Inida Mumbai and Bangladesh Dhaka from tomorrow and was nervous on their food, sanitaly etc, but now I feel better : ) I hope you have a great Christmas in Auckland. I will share some stories when I am back from Langkawi after New Year's. Love, Ayumi
roger Brilliant. First time I've caught up on the loop, great reading, very envious. If you find a spider hole you can pour lighter fuel down it and strike a match - apparently they come out like a jack-in-the box, at least it would solve your sleeping probs!!!! Guy in one of your pics, not a Jesse Bishop by any chance - looks a bit familiar with an old acquaintance - more later if it is. We're heavily into the alcohol side of the festive season, hope you are too. Yep, like the hair long. See ya. R xx
brae mannnn thats intense. holy s***. i cant believe kalo would do that! so wat are ya gonna do? i feel like ringing them up! after all that s*** he dished out to us about trying to stop the poaching problem. and it was kalo's cousin at the diving centre....so y couldn't we get it cheaper..so was that john, richard or bloody barry. i'm pissed off a fair bit. i feel a bit ripped off really. and the spiders man i laughed my head off! thats so funny about the rat nibbling on milennas foot! lucky jo was there to save ya's. so wat food did they give you for that really good meal? my mum brought home a yam today and I was having bad thoughts haha. i'm glad you liked my little letter. man i felt lost when I got home haha hope ur doing well