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Trek Day 2
After a hearty breakfast of porridge, we set off at 8am for what is pitched as one of the hardest days of the whole trek as we were climbing 800m in altitude. The group quickly split into hares and tortoises. I was a definite tortoise and I'm proud of it. I'm not in a competition and have no interest in walking so fast that I miss the spectacular views and, more importantly, make myself sick. As the day progressed, a number of hares slowed down and I ended up in a middle group of my own.
The walk was tough but steady. There were a load of very wobbly bridges across the gushing glacial river. I'm fine with heights but a lot of people were freaking out. One of the bridges was about 200m above the river. Amazing! We stopped for a very welcome lunch where Bhim decide I eat like a man as I ordered 2 plates. I was starving and I knew the afternoon was going to be the toughest as we were going to ascend 600m in less than 3 hours. I also stocked up on snickers, for energy and a reward at the end. We set off with some intrepidation, not really knowing what to expect. Actually, it was hard work but if this was the toughest day, then I'm pretty confident about the rest of it, although obviously we'll have altitude and fatigue to contend with.
I could definitely feel the capacity of my lungs shrinking as we made the climb and my breathing was becoming more intense but I concentrated on it and was fine. We then turned a corner and saw Namche Bazaar on the hillside. At that point my body kind of buckled. I think it knew it had no choice up to that point then my legs turned to jelly and I found that last few hundred metres really hard. Namche Bazaar sits at 3420m and is the last point of civilization before Base Camp. It's a thriving metropolis (well ok, not really) with shops and markets to stock up on last minutes supplies. Our guesthouse was pure luxury (said in a broad Yorkshire accent!) with duvets, hot showers ($3 a pop) and great food. I went foreign tonight and had spag bol. I was planning to be a veggie on this trip and will be from now on but I trust the meat at this place. Oh, and I haven't had a drink since Thursday! It's a world record!
We were given sheets to record any altitude sickness symptoms and rate them on a scale of severity from 1-10. So far, and touch wood, I haven't got any symptoms apart from a bit of a cough but it's hard to know if it's altitude related or not.
For those of you not in the know, altitude sickness occurs above 2400m and is basically when there is not enough oxygen in the blood. If the symptoms aren't recognized and dealt with, it leads to fluid on the lungs and an edema which is fatal. The symptoms include headaches, dizziness, inability to breathe and nausea so nothing that you would normally find too unusual on any kind of mountain hike. That's why it's so dangerous. The only way to treat it is to descend. A lot of people are stupid and carry on and that's when they get into difficulty and die. You can't train for it and even the fittest people can suffer so it's a very individual condition. Keep your fingers crossed for me!!
We also had to have our heart rate and blood oxygen recorded. Mine was good at 92/96. As long as it's over 70 you're fine!
It was late night partying in Namche Bazaar. I had a pot of mint tea and was tucked up in bed and asleep by about 9.30pm!
Trek Day 3
I actually had a great night's sleep and woke up at 5.30 after only 3 pee stops during the night. Although technically a rest day, there's no rest for the wicked and we had to be up and out early for a walk to help with acclimatization. It was a strenuous climb up, past a museum about the region and the Sherpas where we watched yet another disaster film about Everest. Are they trying to tell us something? We then watched a body bag being carried down the mountain by some army guys. It was one of the Sherpas from yesterday's avalanche. It really brings it home. They are bringing all of the bodies to Namche Bazaar first as many of the Sherpas are from here. It's scary to think that next Thursday we will be 200-300m from where it happened. We then carried on up to an airstrip which is used to deliver supplies for expeditions up Everest. It just looked like a dusty footie field and had several donkeys aimlessly wandering across it. From there we could see a building on the mountain opposite which is pretty much only accessible by climbing across some glaciers or being choppered in. Apparently it's a Comfort Inn Hotel for the rich and famous that costs $2000 a night. Er, no thanks! We climbed to 3840m for a cuppa and what is apparently one of the best views of Everest. Unfortunately it was in the clouds although the surrounding mountains were pretty spectacular. Our guide Bhim promises us we will see Everest and if we don't he has a picture on his phone, ha ha. The best way to acclimatize is to come to a lower altitude to sleep so that's why we had to do this walk today so back down to Namche Bazaar we went, just in time for lunch where I stuffed my face with pizza and chips. Yep, that's the kind of classy bird I am but we are doing some serious carb loading to prepare for the next 5 days. The cheese on the pizza is from yaks. Well, nyaks actually which are female yaks.
It's funny. As with all trips I've been on, conversations today turned to those of a scatalogical nature. It's always day 3 or so. On that note, I still haven't been to the loo. I'd rather get the motions going while I have a ceramic squat toilet rather than the holes in the ground we will have to use further up outside in the freezing cold! I know, I know, too much info!
It started raining after lunch but luckily we had free time to go shopping and stock up on essentials for the next week or so as it will be at least 7 days til we reach any shops and showers etc again. Karen and I did some retail therapy stocking up on chocolate and granola bars and I got a couple of knee supports as I'm concerned about the way down. Also got extra electrolytes for rehydration and a belt as I'm losing my trousers already, despite the copious amounts I'm eating. We then had an hour before dinner so, considering it was Saturday night, we decided to hit the town and go for a pre-dinner drink (juice) in the Irish bar next door. We accosted Bhim enroute and took him with us. It was kicking with all of 7 people there, including us 3 and the barman.
As I write this, it's 9.30pm and I'm tucked up in my minus 20 degrees sleeping bag with my longjohns and balaclava on and still a wee bit chilly. Might have to consider wearing my down jacket in bed from now on.
Tomorrow is a 7 hour hike to Phortse Gaon which sits at 3810m and is home to many of the Sherpas that go on the Everest expeditions. We should see Mt Amadablam from our night stop which will be great. The scale of the Himalayas is overwhelming. I had no idea really. It's very hard to describe and it's very difficult to capture on photos. But, what I can say is that from what I've seen so far, I know that the films we see on TV don't exaggerate it. I'll try and add a few photos here before I go to sleep tonight as a taster.
So, this is where the comms stop as we have nothing for at least a week. There is a mobile signal at Base Camp but I couldn't get any network even in Kathmandu so left my phone there. We will be walking every day from tomorrow and, all being well, we will reach Base Camp next Thursday 24th. I hope I make it. Seems a shame to come all this way and not get there but our guides are watching us very diligently so I know they won't let us go on if they think we can't make it.
So, until then.......wish me luck. Yikes!!!
- comments
Tina Great posts - I'm looking forward to reading the next one that says you made it!! Good luck x
Michael Clemons Some cliff hanger No pun intended