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Blimey, is it really only two weeks since I last wrote? We seem to have done such a lot! After I left you in Motueka, and we looked at the weather forecast to decide when we were going to try and kayak the Abel Tasman Coast, we set off (to kill the wet days inbetween times) over Takaka Hill, around the inland border of Abel Tasman National Park, and up along Golden Bay to Farewell Spit. We didn't take one of the tours along the spit but we went to the beginning of it, and it already felt remote and windswept... It was beautiful up there, with black swans swimming along the coast and 'pukeko' (dark blue marsh hens with red beaks) along the side of the road... and we found a nice little spot right on the sea to spend the night. The area draws a lot of artists and there are lots of pottery and craft shops along the way. It's not hard to see the appeal.
The next day we made our way back down and had another day or two mooching around in Motueka and Marahua, at the edge of Abel Tasman. On the Friday (4th May), we hired sea kayaks and - after a two hour session on how to use them, how to avoid capsizing, and what to do if we did (the instructor left us at the end telling us to be nice to each other, and not be a 'divorce canoe'!) - paddled for two days along the coast up to Totaranui. It was fantastic! The weather was all blue skies and sunshine and it was so relaxing paddling about along the coastline, on the calmest of waters, visiting the seal colonies on the little islands and pulling into little gems of beaches for stops and lunch. Just wonderful! The first night we stayed at Anchorage Bay in a hut, spending the entire evening on the beach, cooking pasta and walking along it in the light of a full moon to little coves at the end, before bunking down next to all the other walkers and kayakers.
It was magic and I wished lots that you were all there with us.
The second day we had an amazing few minutes watching seal pups playing and flipping about in the water around Tonga Island, one coming right up to the kayak and swimming around our paddles. They were lovely! After lunch we left our kayak (for the company to come and pick up), and walked the next bit of the coastal track to Awaroa Bay, a huge inlet that can only be crossed at low tide. We stayed in the hut on the edge of it overnight, and got up early next morning to cross it before walking the final stretch of coast to Totaranui to meet the water taxi back to Marahua. It was a brilliant trip... Simon's all up for sea-kayaking now, especially if we stay...
So then we had one more night in Nelson before making our way to the west coast and Westport. There we stayed at Cape Foulwind(!) after more seal-watching and a fabulous sunset, the cape - on the contrary - not living up to the name given it by Captain Cook!
From Westport we went to Greymouth (that drive along the rocky windswept coast was beautiful), where we parked at a lovely, African-themed backpackers, and after four days of beginning to look like Ken Dodd(!), we made the most of the hot showers, as well as the woodburning stove and TV room! From Greymouth we followed the coast to Harihari (famous for Guy Menzies, the first man to fly solo from Australia to New Zealand, landing upside down in a muddy field just outside the village!?), where we stayed on the coast. The sunset was lovely, again, but despite intentions to do the Harihari coastal walk, the next morning was a washout (Friday 11th) and the downpour continued all the way to Franz Josef. The rain let up to give us a cloudy glimpse of the glacier (just not Patagonia, so spoilt that we've become!), and for the rest of the afternoon we took refuge in an internet cafe... on a bus!?
Saturday was beautiful again, and we spent a fab day around Fox Glacier (just south) with Steve (Australian) and Jenny (form California) who we picked up hitchhiking. They were great company and we really enjoyed strolling around Lake Matheson, for the 'View of Views' of Mt. Cook and its reflection in the lake. I've only put up a couple of the hundreds of photos we took! The skies were clearer for the glacier this time, and we walked up and down to it exchanging travel stories with our new friends before saying goodbye and leaving them in the village to hitch back to Franz Josef.
We stayed that night at Gillespies Beach, just west of Fox Glacier, and had a fantastic view of the mountains as we stood right next to the sea. The next morning - last Sunday - we got up and walked the Galway Track through bush to yet more lovely desolate beach, before jumping back in Sponge Bob and heading down to Haast, for a quick look at a very dampened Jackson Bay (for fish and chips in about the only building there - but it was SHUT! Aargh!), and then heading inland towards Wanaka...
This morning, the clouds had lifted again, and for what, I think, has been the best bit in 'Godzone' (a derivative of "God's Own Country", as the Kiwis affectionately and justifiably call their gem of a country!) yet. The drive up to and over Haast Pass, through Mt. Aspiring National Park, along Lake Wanaka, across to Lake Hawea and down to Wanaka is neck-straining! I loved it, and I don't think Simon minded me continually telling him to stop and pull over. It was one photo opportunity after the next.
So now we're in Wanaka, and just in time (after days of being anywhere near a town of any size or of any facilities), as Sponge Bob has sprouted a second bulging tyre (the last bit of the journey was getting quite wobbly!) and is also going to be put through his paces in his 6 monthly WOF this week - Warrant of Fitness (an MOT)... Hmm. A replacement windscreen has already been ordered. The crack was in it when we bought the van, us completely unaware that it would mean it'd fail the WOF as a result. Tant pis! It'll still have worked out a lot cheaper than renting (although I do envy these big white boxy campervans their cosy-looking insides, with kitchens, ensuites, plasma TVs, Dolby surround sound etc. etc.!)
And that's us, just as my minutes at this internet cafe are running out. I can't believe that the end is now countable in weeks, as well as months. Gutting. I will miss so much being able to choose from several wonderful spots and views everyday to decide where to stop for lunch, to stay the night... We're the luckiest b*****s in the world, as they'd say here! New Zealand is definitely growing on us every day. You've got to come here...
All our love, us xxx
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