Hi everyone,

I am at Iguassu falls at the moment but I am a couple of days behind with my journal entries so that will be covered in my next update. Sorry its been so long since a proper update. This tour has been quite intense-I'm nearly always busy doing something. This will be a rather long blog entry as I attempt to summarise each day from my journal entries. I am going to have to split up the blog entries as it is so long it keeps making the programe crash.

10/12/2011 Travelling to Ollantaytambo

We had a look at Sacsayhuaman archaeological complex from the bus. We first went to the womens weaving project and were walked around by Effy (guide) giving us details about the weaving and dying. Hannah and Dean were playing football with the children. There was a very cute brown alpaca. We then went to see Inca ruins. The Inca site was pretty good and view was amazing but unfortunately it was raining.

We travelled to hotel in Ollantaytambo and walked up to Inca ruins in Ollantaytambo. It was beautiful and was very hot now the sun had come out. Effy showed us around and we then had time to explore the area. Effy seems a nice enough person but he is hard to listen to as he says guys nearly every other word. We went out shopping and in preparation for Inca trail I bought 2 wooden walking poles, headband, 2 packets of shampoo, cereal bars, cookies and chocolate and I thought I bought water.

11/12/2011 Inca trail-day 1

We travelled through communities to begin our Inca trek at km 82. There we got our sleeping bags and matresses. We then had to have our bags weighed and I was amazed that Hannah's and other peoples were over but mine wasn't. We then began the walk and I was very slow talking at the back with Dean. I don't like being last but never mind. During the trek we looked over Q'entimarka and walked around willkarakay. Had to be careful not to follow people through to their private sports for the toilet. We also met Ricardo (our assistant guide) at ruins. We then treked the last half an hour to lunch where we experienced the amazing hospitality. The porters had already carried all our duffel bags and had to carry 20kg each. They had set up tent and table for eating and we also had hand bowls with water and soap to wash our hands. It was quite different as there were chickens everywhere and some pigs. One chicken even was nosey and went on one of the bags. We had asparagus soup, garlic bread and afterwards trout. We then treked for maybe another 2 hours to campsite. Stopped for some rests and at one of stops went into a room where porters were having a drink. Amazingly they had a TV in there where Andean music was being shown. Not long after arriving we had hot water to wash our face. We then had afternoon tea- hot chocolate, crackers with jam and popcorn.

After that we were introduced to all the staff. The porters ranged in age from 20 to about 57. We asked questions and guide translated so porter could answer our questions. The boys were asked do they have sisters, we were all asked were we single, where we were from and where we worked. The introductions were interrupted by the drunk from the campsite shouting. We found out that porters come from local communities, some are related (1 father and son), they do Inca trail 3 or 4 times a month and it increases in high season, their working life is limited by knee and back problems. They've got bank accounts and 200 sol is paid to them for each trek. Went down near local house for the squat toilets and locals began talking to us in Spanish which we didn't understand. Toilets stunk a bit and I won't be going down there in middle of night. We then had dinner which was soup followed by chicken. After that some of us chatted, some of us played cards and I updated my journal. Saw the stars and Declan asked whether one of the bright stars was North Star. Was a bit upset at dinner that Effy said we had some good hikers in our group and some not so good ones. I was obviously one of the not so good ones as I spent most of the time at the back of the group.

Then I went to bed and it was still rather too early for me to go to bed. Took a long time to get to sleep and before going to sleep I had to struggle to find things in bag, open tent and scramble up bank to go to toilet behind tents. Realised that I was probably illuminated by a bright star/moon.

12/12/2011 Inca trail- day 2

Well had a wake up at 5am and had some coca tea. Had breakfast at about 5:40am of oatmeal and then omlette. We left about 6:20 with Ricardo leading and Effy at back. I was at back of fast group. Poor Hannah had asthma so she was quite a long way behind along with Shaun, Dean and Effy. We then were told how to get to campsite and allowed to set our own pace.

I was thinking I may have to go with slower group as I couldn't go at Jens pace and I didn't want to be left with no-one around. Luckily Declan was fairly similar pace to me so we walked together up the steps with some stops. At last shop I bought some water there and it cost 8 sol when it normally costs 2.50 sol.

I was surprised I coped with it quite well and felt fine. Whether it was determination I walked quite fast to get to highest point (4200 m a.s.l- Dead Women's Pass- in hills looks like a face of a women). A few people mentioned that I was going quick and was like a machine. I was 3rd person up there in our group. Still had views but it was quite cloudy on top and cold. Once we saw the porters we began descent down. I didn't really like going down I was scared of slipping. When stopped for a rest my leg would begin shaking. Me and Declan arrived after Johnathan, Josh and Danny. Reached Paqaymayo campsite about 12:15. Dumped my stuff in tent and went to toilet then didn't have long to wait for the others to arrive for lunch. We had soup then pasta and like a quiche tortia.

I was amazed to find that could flush the toilet in the squat toilet. Chain was attached to a small branch. After that had 45 minute sleep, then back to toilet with Hannah, then dipped feet in local spring (which was very cold but refreshing on the feet) and then spent time writing journal before having afternoon tea including snacks again. I then went to carry on with journal and tidy tent before having dinner soup and then main course. Went to bed reasonably early again. Pretty successful day and not as hard as expected. A lot of others found it very tough going up to top but I didn't get too breathless.

13/12/2011 Inca trail- day 3

Well it was rather chilly last night. Had wake up call at 5am again and breakfast at 5:30. I felt fine when woke up but then I thought I'd better take malaria tablet while I'm thinking about it. That made me feel sick as I hadn't had breakfast. I actually found this a tougher day today maybe it was because I am stiff or I was ill in morning but it was nearly all downhill. Day started with some uphill where we stayed together a bit more as we were visiting Runkuraqay inca ruins. We explored this site after Effy had talked to us. Josh left his pole down there so Jents went quickly back down and up again to get it for himself. We went up to a lake and Sean's comment was it was just like bogs in Ireland.

We walked up to the second highest pass Runkuraqay pass and there stopped for snacks. I struggled peeling an orange and was using someones penknife and was almost there when Effy said are you all ready to go. At first I tried to eat it while going down but it was too steep. I found it harder work going downhill as I stiffen up and steps were steep. Went through a small cave area. Another companys porter had unfortunately sprained his ankle so Effy took his 20kg rucksack and carried it. We were going downhill for a long time before finally reaching another inca site. I was so glad to see steps up that I went up quite quickly and got a little out of breath. This ruin was Sayacmarca and was a good ruin to see and I wouldn't like to have missed it. Kept trying to take photos of another ruin in distance but it was quite misty. We then walked down to toilets and there Shaun made a St Bridget cross out of reeds. We then went up 150m and then began a pleasant walk with nice views of the cloud forest to the camp site for lunch. Again we went through an inca cave along route too. We had a bit of a rest at this camp and for lunch had soup and ate chicken kieve, pasta and salad. Some llamas also visited the camp. One was massive but none of them spat at any of us. It was then downhill nearly all the way to campsite which again I didn't enjoy. Prefer uphill but I did enjoy the scenery and the weather began to look up. At one point though I did feel completely alone as everyone else was ahead of me and Effy behind me had done a disappearing act. We took long way round to campsite to see Phuyupatamarka but just as got there it began to mist up so it felt like we were on edge of world as could just see grass terrace we were on and then nothing but cloud. We waited there to see whether it would clear but it didn't so we began our descent again.

When got on outskirts of camp Winaywayna I was so happy as I thought another gadventures campsite was ours and then was told I needed to go further down. After finally reaching the campsite I had a treat of a hot shower and a western toilet. Not long after that it was snacktime and chefs amazingly had baked a beautiful orange cake with icing saying welcome to inca trail. How they managed to bake a cake while camping. For dinner we had soup then pizza as well as chicken. We retired to bed after dinner early due to a wake up at 3:50am.

14/12/2011 Machu Picchu

Well slept well but being woke up at 3:45am is not fun in a tent when its dark and raining. I got a little panicked in tent as Effy had told us breakfast was at 4:20 so I thought that meant be out of the tent at that time but all the porters were waiting outside tent at 4:10 to tidy it away. We just had some coca tea, like a porridge and bread for breakfast. After breakfast it was a reasonable easy walk apart from being tired and the 50 steps up to sun gate. Weather also improved so could see Machu Picchu.

We got down and were greeted by Manuel (guide), Kathryn and Giddeon and then went down to cafe before having a tour of Machu Picchu with Effy. In cafe we retired our walking poles as they weren't allowed in Machu Picchu. Machu Picchu was spectacular and was a lot bigger than I was expecting. Afterwards we had time to explore it ourselves and me Jens and Sean went over to Inca bridge for a look and scenary was good there too. We even had a run up some steps which I'm hoping may have loosened up my legs as they don't feel as stiff. Jens sort of jumped into someone on way down as he got fed up with all the slow walkers coming up from train. Amazingly one person was hobbling up on one leg with crutches. After that got bus down to Machu Picchu town. I quite liked the town. It has got a railway going through middle of it. We then walked to train station, got on 1 hr and half train journey and then 2 hour bus to Cusco so we arrived about 6:45pm.

15th December 2011 Amazon, Posada Amazonas lodge, Peru

Had a flight to Puerto Maldonado this morning.

The heat and humidity hit us as we left plane in Puerto Maldonado. We got on minibus and went the short distance to the office. There we had a juice drink and watched the cute monkeys which came over from the offices' neighbours. Was quite amusing to watch womens reaction when monkeys got rather close to her when she was washing her hands. We travelled in bus to what they called the port. In port there was a little shop and 2 motorised long narrow boats. On bus we had snacks of Brazil nuts, finger bananas and dried bananas. On boat we had a carton of juice and ate rice from a large leaf. The rice had been wrapped up in a leave. On boat we saw 2 red and green macaws as well as a giant rodent capbra. We arrived at lodge and manager talked us through things. Was told to lock snacks in safe to stop animals going for them. Otherwise they would likely chew a hole in my bag for them. Was a bit disturbed when got to room. It looked a nice room with 2 beds, mosquito nets and hammock. However it was open down one side to jungle, had high rafters and I could see the soil underneath the floor planks. I was worried about what would go boo in the night.

We then went for a walk through rainforest to 37m tower to view the canopy. On walk we saw howler monkeys, saw massive roots, may have seen a tarantula on way back. On way back Fernando (guide) got us to chew some bark and asked us what it reminded us of. I couldn't think but once someone said panadol, paracetamol etc I knew it must be the quinine tree. There were also lots of ants carrying leaves along the pathway. The tower was a little scary as it shook a little but views were worth it above the tree canopy and across the river. After dinner had our briefing and then I went to a mini-lecture about eco-tourism in loge. Unfortunately I was the only one who went so it was aa bit embarassing. After that spent time chatting at the bar with an australian (Navan) whos family was from Sri Lanka before electricity went off at 10. I then had to find my headtorch in my bag and barman helped by shining his in my bag. I then went across the bar to get my camera battery and headed to bed. I hadn't checked the bed so I just lay on top of blankets in my clothes. Unfortunately I couldn't light my candles as lighter seemed to not work easily. I didn't expect to sleep a wink but I did the mosquito net was sort of like a room in itself.

16th December 2011 Amazon, Posada Amazonas lodge, Peru

Well woke up at 4am for breakfast at 4:30am. I wass wandering around with a flashlight as it was still dark. I just used wet wipes for cleaning and got dressed. There was a shower but as it was still dark and I was using a flashlight to get around I decided to give the shower a miss. After all having a shower in dark is not appealing even without having chance of finding any animals near me. Had breakfast then we walked to motorised boat which took us near to the lake. We then did another walk down to the raft/boat. On way down to other boat/raft we went to the toilets and surprisingly they were good even though they were in the jungle. We then were paddled around the lake in a boat/raft where we stopped to look at birds and also saw a family of giant otters. We were lucky to see them as they are not seen everyday. We then had a go at piranha fishing. I didn't catch anything but some people did and one person sent a fish above everyones heads.

Had some bread and a passion fruit. The effort to get in passion fruit was not worth it for the taste. I created some amusement while trying to peel it. One of the guides told me to break it like an egg. I was sure he was joking until someone else said give it a go so I banged it against the table. Obviously it didn't do anything. Got hard skin off after a while but still had to peel inside it. After break we walked down to bird shelter and watched the red and green macaws. Guide took photos of them for us through the telescope. Later we got in boat to meet shamen and see medical garden. It was quite interesting. Shamen spoke in Spanish and then the guides translated it for us. There we tried a natural painkiller where we chewed some bark that make your tongue, mouth and lips go a little numb. We also had the option to try the herbal equivalent of viagara, a remedy to help immune system and a drink for energy. All of them were mixed with pisco. The only one I tried was the one for energy. I was hoping the viagra didn't work for the boys next door as they drank all of them plus a bit more alcohol in bar when we got back. As I was a girl on my own and my room didn't have doors I am glad it didn't work for them.

I went on a night bug walk and we saw posisonous spiders, poisonous ants, poisonous centipede and some cockroaches. Also saw frogs and went for a little paddle in gum boots into a small pond. Once lights went off we carried on chatting around the candle light and jumping with all the insects that landed on us. Crawled under mosquito net when went to room and quickly went to sleep despite Josh and Danny telling me they had seen rodents in their room earlier.

17th December 2011 Returning to Cusco

Well woke up in the morning to howling monkeys, bird sounds and insect sounds. Had no idea what time it was. It was probably about 5:30am. I heard boys in next room ask what time it was. I didn't hear the answer but thought I heard them say they had slept 11 hours. I got dressed and went down to breakfast area. When I got there I couldn't see anyone and breakfast wasn't set up. I thought what time have I slept to. He said breakfast in 5 minutes so I asked what the time was. It was 6:25am and I wasn't due to meet the others till 7:30am.

I did have a sleep of 40 minutes on plane. Finally we got back to cusco at 4:30 and I rushed down to see the attractions in Cusco.

First I went in Compaňa de Jesús where I saw a beautiful view over main square. Then met Sean and had a quick chat before I went into cathedral. Cathedral was beautiful and very large. TOn my way to Sun temple I met Navan so we had a pleasant walk down to Sun temple then went into a tourist market and then back to the main square where the christmas lights were on. I managed to use a bit of spanish today talking to a young boy outside the Compaňa de Jesús earlier and then I had to walk from main square to the restaurant Fallen Angel. I had to ask for directions. Fallen angel is also a boutique hotel and has some very interesting looking rooms. After dinner went back to get changed for a night out in Cusco. Luckily Hannah was also returning to hotel otherwise I probably wouldn't have bothered going out. First went to irish pub and was a little giddy on red bull.

After that went on to two clubs. One we weren't in for long. Met Navan again and was dancing with him. I also danced with Sean. I really enjoyed the night. Think I gave people a couple of surprises that I was dancing and giddy without alcohol. I did begin crashing from about 2:30am/3:00am so a few times I went and sat on top of the speaker. It did massage my bum a bit.At 3:51am me, Josh and Danny walked back to hotel and I began my packing and looked at e-mails. Finally got in bed just before 6am.

18th December 2011 Travelling to Puno

Well alarm went off at 6:30am. I had gone into a deep sleep but I still hadn't warmed up. I would have come home earlier last night but I didn't want to walk/get taxi on own. I hadn't realised how close hotel was and how many people would still be on the streets. About 7:15am we got mini-bus to bus station. Got on 7hr bus ride to Puno and I just slept, slept, slept. The odd times I woke up there was some very nice scenery but I didn't have energy to keep eyes open. After lunch we looked at main square and looked in cathedral. We went in supermarket to buy gifts for family-panecetto, sugar, flour, sweets, rice and pasta.

19th December 2011 Lake Titicaca

Well feel a lot better today. Still don't want to move on though as just want a bit of a rest day. We started day be all getting cycle rickshaws and being cycled down to meet the boat. They were a lot more comfortable than ones in India. We first went in shop and bought some crayons and paper for homestays. We got in boat and went for about a 30 minute boat ride to the Uros islands. They were amazing, all made out of reed bed roots and reeds. They felt very secure. Had a nice welcome and first sat on a reed seat for a presentation on how they make the reed beds. Jesus (child) was amusing to watch as he kept removing reeds from the model of the islands that his father was showing us. I hope he doesn't do that to the islands themselves.

After that we all had a tour of local houses. Two people from tour went into each house. In the house made of reeds they dressed me up in traditional dress. As they were taking photos of us a sweet little girl was trying to clamber her way up me so I ended up picking her up. I then went to their little stalls and bought a picture that they had sewn plus a model boat and they gave me a free necklace. I shouldn't have bought them as haven't really got room in bag but I liked them. I then went in a boat made of reeds and as we were taking photos inside it two local men jumped in boat and began paddling it. The little girl was so sweet and came on boat with us. . We were paddled out to our boat and we then had a couple of hours on boat for relaxing before arriving at Taquile island.

We had a 20 minute walk uphill and then walked around local square and had lunch in local restaurant.

We then got in boat to travel over to the homestay with the Laqum community. There we were greeted and were escorted up to the village with the local band playing behind us. There we met our host and saw him picking his nose. A lot of the others then played football with the locals and with the other gadventures group. We were then dressed up in local clothes and danced with each other and locals. After that we walked up to house and it was hard with bags plus all the layers of skirts. Our room was very nice-alot better than expected. We had to chuck a bucket of water down to flush the toilet and didn't have water but toilet and taps were there to do so. The beds were comfy and we weren't sleeping on the floor. We met all 6 children and went in the tiny hut for dinner where we had soup and then a rice dish. I played card games with girl and Hannah was playing with the very young girl. We were getting signs to go to bed at 8pm by asking what time we went to bed at home and then watching us.

20th December 2011 Homestay, Lake Titicaca and Puno

Well we were having a wake up knock at 7:10am but I reckon I was probably waking up from about 5am onwards. I got up at 6am to get my sock out of bottom of bed and thought it must be time for wake up knock as I seemed to have been in bed ages in the morning. When saw it was only 6am I got back into bed till 7am. Flies bugged me a little in kitchen (shed) while eating breakfast. The children were all getting ready for school apart from the 2 youngest ones. They had six children altogether After spending some time close to house we went to plough/weed the fields with pick axes. Was a little hard to begin with as didn't know what we were doing as it was explained in spanish and farming/weeding is not my forte. Its not something I would like to do everyday thats for sure and homestay host left us on our own for quite a bit. The 3 year old boy started being a pain then. Before he had been amusing himself and we were saying how good he was compared to British/Australian children. He then began to trample what we had already done including standing on the crops. He then began trying to get pick axe from me and was right under my feet. It was like tug of war and Hannah came to help. We were saying no in spanish and sit but it wasn't working. Finally we got pick axe from him and he then began to throw mud at us so we moved to a different area of the field to work on. He traipsed back off to house and it was with a sigh of relief that he went. He came back with his father later on but that was ok. Sure Johnathan and Giddeon must have destroyed a lot of the crop in their field they were working in. They showed us how they had done it. After 10am we had a rest till 11am and had a very short walk plus I rang home which was nice. At 11am we had soup and also a rice dish.

After that it was time to say goodbye to our homestay hosts and we had the two hour drive in boat back to Puno. I was enjoying being on back of boat until Kathryn began clipping her toenails. We then got mini-bus back to hotel and I spent afternoon on teaching english course and uploading photographs.