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Ok, well time for what we guess is the last blog update...
So after the last time we wrote we flew north from Cochin all the way to Delhi - would like to say it was delightful but it wasn't... ! We stayed in the 'backpacker' i.e. cheap and convenient area of Pahar Ganj which looked like it had recently been bombed. Hoping to find a silver lining amidst the rain cloud we ventured to the Red Fort, witnessed a few street wedding processions (very colourful!) and spent a couple of days soaking up the noise, dirt, dust and sounds of the capital, but alas, couldn't come to like it too much....
All the easier to not like it when we got the wrong train station for our train to Varanasi... a typically huge Indian crowd of 'helpers' or is that 'touts and scammers' later we realised we were definitly at the wrong station with insufficent time to get to the next one. Slightly annoying moment to put it mildly which we had to correct by booking a flight to take us the next day.
Was definitly worth the journey and agro of getting there as Varanasi was a real highlight, like nowhere else we have seen on earth - totally unique. It's like a representation of India all packed into 1 area of the city - notably the banks of the Ganges. Just incredible to see how religion plays such a key part of daily life and this river forms the lifeblood of it. We took a sunrise boat ride down the river along all the ghats, watching people bathing, washing, dipping their children in, as well as their rubbish....... sometimes - no, many times, this place defies belief. But as our friend in Mumbai told us you have to see Varanasi not just with the eyes, but with the mind. Very true.... Also it felt like one of the places with the highest concentration of cows, walking down some of the narrow laneways that lead to the river (which are inaccessible to traffic) it felt like we were walking through a farmyard. We also witnessed the evening 'puja' - a daily ceremony of light, sound, worship, flowers, incense performed by 7 men on the banks of the river - very atmospheric stuff.
From Varanasi we made our way on to Agra (successfully caught that overnight train, right train station this time which somehow reminded me of a refugee camp.... also lots of 'wildlife' to be seen there....). Agra while less than an enchanting town itself was a must stop destination, and our hotel in Taj Ganj had a brilliant rooftop terrace with a spot on view of the Taj Mahal. Timing was such that we were at the Taj Mahal for Valentines. Woke up super early to catch sunrise which unfortunately was a bit cloudy, but nonetheless the building itself was beautiful - as many people had told us, much bigger than you expect, and simply beautiful to look at and walk around. Symetrical, white, clean and a stunning piece of architecture. Easy to while away a few hours in the grounds.... until we were ravenous for breakfast! We later took a simple boat out that just punted along the Yamuna river giving us beautiful views of the back of the Taj at sunset. Not a bad way to spend Valentines day..... One of the most bizarre things we saw in Agra was children rushing over to shovel up in their hands fresh water buffalo s*** (as the animals were walking through the town from the waterside). WHY?!?!?! In Agra we also checked out Agra Fort and the Baby Taj Mahal - some worthwhile spots to see. And the Baby Taj was so peaceful, very few people there.... peace and quiet - precious commodities here.
From Agra we headed onto Jaipur which wasn't really our cup of chai (which we do love!) Too big, crowded, traffic congested, noisy etc. Paul does reckon that he's had his best thali there though so that is a hit on the food front. And we did have to laugh when we were confronted with a rampaging wild boar, fresh out of the street rubbish and heading our way! Also more wedding processions to be seen there... love is always in the air!
Then onto Udaipur which was fantastic - set around the beautiful Lake Pichola, and set of the film Octop**** - which we watched on the open air rooftop of our hotel one night... very cool being on location! Took a boat out to see the beautiful floating Lake Palace a bit closer, wandered around Jagmandir island with views back to the mainland, and also checked out the City Palace which was really beautiful. As always, plenty of good food (we're still not bored of curry), banana lassis, reading, relaxing, rooftop sunsets and meeting some cool people on the way - not only travellers, but wonderfully kind, helpful locals, who always have a smile to spare. Definitly liked Udaipur....
Next stop in Rajasthan was Jodhpur which was another highlight - referred to as the blue city, it really is, with indigo washed buildings - to keep cool and apparently a mosquitoe repellent! While the journey to Jodhpur was by dust and death defying coach (I curse that driver) the time there was fantastic mostly due to visit to Mehrangar Jodhpur's fort which is still run by the Maharaja of the city. A mighty structure that sits on top of the city, fabulous views, it is just a vision and experience of history, culture and the spirit of Rajasthan. Majestic and massive! We celebrated being geeks with the excellent audio guide which with educational stuff and music made it really atmospheric. Definitly the best managed and well run 'attraction' we've been to..... For 1 of our evenings there we broke the booze detox for 1 evening and indulged in some G&Ts - delish!
And from there yet another train journey has bought us to Jaisalmer, which is where we are right now... arrived a couple of days ago and have so far been out on a camel safari with a company run by Mr Desert - 4 times champion of this title won at the annual Desert Festival in Jaisalmer - picture will show his signature moustache and turban! The camel safari was brilliant - fabulous to get out into the desert and see some of the dunes, villages, and empty plains..... Amazing food considering it was cooked by campfire, well behaved (if a touch flatulent) camels and a night sleeping out under the stars - fab! Needless to say though our backsides are now sore and I'm never getting on a camel again... but so glad we did it! We still have time to properly explore this desert outpost town, which is surprisingly quiet (hurrah!) so will go and see the fort & havelis in the town before we leave tomorrow, onboard another night train destined for Delhi. Saturday we are planning to do any remaining Delhi sights that take our interest, a touch of shopping (!) and then are meeting a friend for dinner, before on Sunday morning we cast off our 'backpacker' status and check into a 5* treat for Paul's birthday. Planning to eat so much at breakfast that we are about to burst and then laze by the pool for the remainder of the day... reflecting on our last 5 months of fabulous honeymoon memories, and getting our bags packed to come home on Monday morning!
So that's about it! The honeymoon is drawing to a swift end.....
So see you in less than a week,
Lots of love as always, L&P xxx
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