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Although I have heard that the traditional tea house is a dying cultural institution in most Chinese cities, Sichuan prides itself on preserving the tradition in Chengdu I never quite knew what I was ordering but the teas poured were so delicious -- complex combinations of tea leaves, flower blossoms, and other flavors. Yes houses are places people gather to pass the time playing Mojong, talking, and... Having their ears cleaned. Yes, for about a dollar a man wearing a headlamp and armed with scraping, picking, and clipping tools will "clean" your ears. Watching this procedure, I could not get my the voice of my friend Pat out of my head. Pat, an ENT Doctor scolded once when she learned that I was using Q-tips to clean my ears!
Last night I met up for dinner with some other travelers from Norway and England. We went out for Sichuan Hotpot. Here is how it worked -- a large pot is placed on the burner built into our table. A spivey broth is prepared along with even spicier dipping sauce. Then we are invited into a refrigerated room where over 70 varieties of green, potatoes, roots, onions, shrooms, tofus, meats (duck, beef, yak, chicken, etc), fish, and novel animal parts. We chose about 50 skewers for the five of us and set to cooking it all in the broth. We decided that we would try pig brain as one of the many experiments. How long must brain cook before it is "ready?". No idea but we cooked it beyond recognition. I won't belabor the point but think tofu... My rabbi clients will fire me just on principle...
After dinner I saw the Chengdu Opera which is famous for its magically fast mask changers. Right before your eyes the performers change masks and you have no idea where the previous mask went! See the Chinese film, "King of Masks" to experience this. But the show was so much more -- live music, pageantry, dance, comedy, Lazer show, and acrobatic demonstration all rolled into ninety minutes. Really memorable.
This morning I got an early plane to northern Sichuan near the Tibet border. I landed and went to Huanglong (yellow dragon) National Park for the day. Went up by cable lift, then began a 15 km trek that leads you up and into the forested gorge. The government has built a wooden boardwalk/ stairway that is suspended a few feet above the fragile forest floor. You must see these photos which include azure colored calcified pools (at nearly 12,000 feet above sea level they are the highest), waterfalls, two temples, and forest. I was glad I packed electrolyte powder and almonds!
Made my way to the town adjacent to a second national park -- Juisaigu. My driver, Huang Bo (or at least that is the way I butcher his name) put in a CD with music by the Carpenters, lionel Richie, Stevie, and richard Marx. There were also some show tunes (Sound of Music, Evita, Beaty and the Beast). Before you knew it we were in Karaoke heaven -- especially me since unlike a certain wife with the initials LS, Huang Bo was oblivious to the fact that I tend to invent lyrics.
This eve I went to the one restaurant in town recommended by Lonely Planet -- a warm and welcoming Tibetan restaurant. At the end of the meal they sing you a song and give you a prayer shawl for the road. On my way out I met some guys (one Irish and one American) working in the field of Chinese sustainable Tourism. We wound up having a drink and they gave me the lowdown on the park. Tomorrow is another big hiking day.
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Marilyn(as in aunt) I'm so pleased that I finally am getting your blog!!! Don't ask me how. Your trip sounds like an incredible adventure. Stay well and enjoy.