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Fantastic, frightening, frantic, festy, fractious, fetid, fun, forboding, festive Fez!!
I love it and I hate it all at the same time.
I love the idea of Fez. It is the spiritual capital of Morocco. Another Imperial city, originally settled in the early ninth century, with a strong Andalusian flavour. From a lookout opposite the medina, Fez stretches out at the base of a range, a golden-pink expanse of mud and brick, layer upon layer upon layer. Rooftops are dominated by aerials and satelite dishes, and the vista is dotted with green tiled minarets. And, there are golden doorways and gates a-plenty!!
There are reputedly 9200 alleyways in the medina of Fez, and heres where the actual experience of this city turns a little sour. Armed with a Lonely Planet double-paged map, one is given an over inflated sense of confidence in navigating the labyrinth that is the medina. Correction: a labyrinth has a sense of order that is acutely lacking here. If you stay on the "main drags" (ie paved paths about 2m wide) then you're probably ok, but venture off and life gets interesting. The alleys are anorexically narrow, many are dark tunnels (due to building in every available space), and most are chock full of people, donkeys, carts, produce and wares.
I came here prepared to "lose myself" like I did in Casablanca, only there I was treated to wide open streets. Here, not so much. Add to the mix touts shoving all manner of goods in my face and slimy men calling out, and you can just imagine how much I enjoyed myself! We had an "organised" tour of the medina today and I left half-way through. Our guide for the day was dragging us through all of the above, and in and out of miniscule shops (probably his commission junket), and I reached my limit. We'd been ushered through the fresh produce section, meat and fish section, the dyers area, the brass and metalwork section and the tannery.
The tannery is hard to cope with. The smell gets you first. Its hidden behind high walls of shops, which you are obligated to enter to see the tannery. Nothing really prepares you for what you're about to see, the photos dont have smell-a-vision, nor can they convey the squalor. We were only there for a few minutes snapping pictures, I really feel for the poor b******s to have to work in it day in, day out. It really makes you think twice about buying that 2000 dirham leather jacket in the shop after that.
I pulled the pin on the tour in a scarf shop and headed back to the hotel. Attempted to. Ye olde Lonely Planet wasnt a great deal of help as I had NO IDEA which little alley we were in!! I backtracked as best I could and eventually caught a taxi back to the hotel.
Fez is far from all bad though. The area of the medina near the hotel is charming and has a legendary cafe, Cafe Clock, owned by an Aussie guy, who I was fortunate enough to meet this afternoon. Its Moroccan food with a western twist, or maybe thats western food with a Moroccan twist. Either way its fusion food that works.
The other highlight has been the Sufi Cultural Festival, in town all this week, and conveniently based at the museum opposite the hotel. Last night I wandered in and became a part of something Im not sure I can explain. Due to the Arabic/French language barrier I couldnt read the programme, but I believe the performance was a group of Sufi masters singing Islamic hymns. It was beautiful to sit in the courtyard of the museum and enjoy music that was transcendental. It didnt matter that I didnt recognise the tunes, or understand the words, I could connect to the melody and the percussion, and appreciate the voices along with everyone else. It was also wonderful to smile and clap along and connect with the people around me, rather than being hassled for money or leered at. Im going back tonight!!
Our time in Fez is short. Too short. I think a couple more days and I could find my own pace in the rythym of the medina. I feel a bit like we're being rushed through this country. There hasnt been much opportunity to meet local people and get a sense of their way of life, like we did in Jordan and Egypt. If it werent for the festival last night I would wonder if there was any life beyond souks/shops and tourism operators.
For the next few days we'll be in the High Atlas mountains and the desert, home of the Berber peoples.
- comments
Mum & Dad we have read all your blogs so far. have enjoyed them immensley. Great to hear that you are having a good time. Love from the family Mum, Dad, Graeme, Wendy and Aaron
Mum & Dad Immensely*
Fishy Mate, I think you're in the wrong job :) The way you write conjures amazing images!!! Makes me realise why I love travel so much (sometimes you forget when you do a lot for work!). Also brings back fond memories. Thanks lovely one, a good pick-up at a much needed time! K.