Spent a great day wandering around La Paz and managed to cover a great deal of the city on foot. Explored the area around Sagamaga Street and found it to be full of everything the locals think a tourist might crave. At least it is all condensed in this one spot! We walked up through the open market area and it was wall to wall vendors selling fruits and veggies and various meats and fish...really bizzare to see all of this food just laying out on tables and tarps. We saw the famous Iglesia de San Francisco and then explored Calle Lineas before it rained...it rains at least once in the afternoons here! Calle Lineas is full of shops that also cater to the tourist and we visited some containing amazing textiles...there is definitely a difference in quality between what is sold on the streets and what is offered in artist co-operatives. Add one more shoulder bag to my collection...I am weak but Ferg approved the purchase as it was of amazing quality. We visited a woman's weaving co-operative and actually got to see the process itself...what a skill and it is unbelievable how time consuming the process is...definitely requires patience. After that we downed a jug of fresh squeezed OJ and visited the Coca museum...it explores the sacred leaf's role in traditional societies, it's use by the soft drink and pharmaceutical industries and the growth of cocaine as an illicit drug. The displays are educational, provacative, and evenhanded. Was a lot of info packed into one of the tiniest museums ever! After that we wandered through the witche's market...truly freaky...the Mercado de Hechiceria contains shrunken and dried animals of all kinds...even feteouses...baby llamas, jungle kitties, & lucky toads...you name it...bizzare! Witch Doctors toss the coca leaves and tell fortunes but never for tourists. This city of 1.5 million has a great feel and we enjoyed the day...clouds never cleared to give us a glimpse of the mountains beyond the bowl though. We were happy we both wearing sneakers, however, as the local boys shine boots to make money but with 'sneaks' on they leave you alone...it is a bit unnerving at first because there are a tonne of them and they all wear hats pulled down low and ski masks just showing their eyes...it is a social staus thing as many do not want to be recognized while working even though in most cases it is to support their large families...av. number of kids per family in Bolivia is 5... a lot of mouths to feed. We are spending one more night here tying up loose ends before heading North in the morning...currently just killing time waiting for the afternoon siesta to end and things to get moving again. Had wicked Lebanese food for dinner last night and was a nice treat because it was totally different from what we typically eat each day...hoping to try some local Bolivian dishes tonight...curious fact...they have over 130 varieties of potatoes here! Got lucky today and the Siesta coincided with the rain...time to run now and tackle the to do list! Hope all is well !

Have finally arrived in the highest capital city in the world, La Paz, Bolivia! In fact we are a little lower in altitude than the past three days spent on Isla del Sol...Island of the Sun...reputed to be where the Sun itself was created. We left Puno and crossed the boarder to arrive in Copacabana, Bolivia after a 4hour bus ride...nice little town right on the shore of Lake Titicaca. Was a beautiful ride despite the rain with the snow capped Cordillera Real far off in the distance...can't wait to see this mountain range up close...6000m peaks. After lunch we caught the hydrofoil across the Lake around 1:30...not the fastest mode of transportation but a great way to relax and enjoy the view...as is turning out to be typical here it had cleared off and the sun was out full force. The ride was almost 2 hours and we were met at the dock by local boys who were offering to act as guides...most people just visit the island for an hour or so...can't imagine...but we had packs in tow and planned to stay for 3 days. Dave, the boy with the brighest smile, quickly adopted us and offered to show us the best route up the hillside and find us a place to stay with a local family. He quickly won us over and soon he and Ferg were racing up the hill...my big pack has to weigh close to 75 pounds at this point and I was in no way interested in attempting the pace these two were setting...heart pounding in the chest! It was quite a climb and at the top Ferg and I both were feeling the effects of exercise at altitude in the strong afternoon sun...we stayed on the southern end in a village called Yumani and the elevation there is 4023m. Was delightful however, to wander up the slopes and smell sweet Kao or incense brush and wander through the planted terraces. Isla del Sol has about 2500 permanent residents and no cars...what a treat! It doesn't take long to gain a profound respect for how hard these people work and the loads they lug in their daily lives. Got a big chuckle out of the actual traffic...herds of sheep, alpaccas, and pigs which travel along the cobblestone paths...lots of donkeys and a few cows too...pretty bust at dinner time when they are all returning from grazing in the hills! We stayed above the village of Japapi nestled on the Kona Bay...the view was breathtaking and after settling in we just sat outside and attempted to take it all in...wandered about the village on the first day and then found 'Las Verdas...the Candles' towards the southern tip where we sat and enjoyed Cervezas and watched the sun set over Kakayo-Quena ridge. We sat at little tables built of trees and stumps and enjoyed homemade pasta with fresh pesto sauce for dinner...was super cool and we watched the lady pick the ingredients from her hillside garden...delicious. Slept too well despite the thundering downpour in the night and actually awoke and had breakfast only to sleep some more...the joys of altitude and the luxury of being on vacation. We ate Quinoa soup (grain that contains almost all of the essential amino acids) and Ferg had chewy goat while I had fish - pejerrey- before setting off on a 6 hour circuit to visit the Northern end of the Island...about 22 km. Isla del Sol was known to early inhabitants as 'Rock of the Puma' so we went off in search of the ruins at Cha'llapampa via the strenuous ridge route...was beautiful route as from here you can see both side of the island and even the Isla del Luna (moon) off in the distance...Peru off to the other side. Climbing along an ancient route to the isthmus at Santiago Pampa we arrived at Piedra Sagrada and the Templo del Inca...the first thing you see is a table (Mesa Ceremonica) like structure that was used as an execution block for those convicted of wrong doing...ironically today many tourists use it a picnic table...no Thanks! Directly across from this area is the Titi Khar'ka or Titicaca - the Rock of the Puma, which is featured in the Inca creation..it resembles a crouching Puma...the Cara de Viracocha or face takes some imagination to distinguish but a local boy tending his cows was happy to climb up on top, in his sandals no less, and point out the four distinctive elongated niches. The two on the right are called Refugio del Sol and the two on the left are known locally as the Refugio de la Luna...according to tradition it was this very spot where the Sun made its first appearance and later Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo appeared and founded the Inca Empire. In the surface of the stone immediately south are the Huellas del Sol or natural markings that resemble footprints and have inspired the notion that they were made by the sun after its birth on Titicaca Rock. Past this rock is the remains of the Chincana Ruins and the Palacio del Inca also known as El Laberinto or the Labyrinth...the maze of tiny doorways overlooks a beautiful white sandy beach complimented by the water in every shade of blue...quite a sight. From here we made the decision to be adventurous and return home to Yumani via the unexplored coastal route...what a great decision that turned out to be...not only did we not have to retrace our footsteps, but we also got to see the whole other side of the island. Definitely a bit more difficult footing but a nice opportunity to travel through the ports and villages of Cha'lla, Kollabaya, and Cha'llapampa and up Cerro Palla Khasa...while passing Bahia Kea, Bahai Cha'lla, and Bahai Pukhara and racing the sun as it dissapeared over Cerro Santa Barbara. Don't forget the evening traffic, people are incredibly freindly and everyone greets you with Buenos tardes as the prod the animals along on their way home. It gets cold pretty quick when the sun goes down but we arrived back in Yumani at 6:45 just in time to find our way back to Las Verdas before dark for another great dinner of freash pasta and homemade pizza. Played crazy eights, Ferg is now in the lead overall, and listened to the Senorita teaching her young Chicka (girl) how to cook. This place had no electricity so we dined by candle light and remembered to bring our headlamps this time for the return walk home...the night before was an interesting walk. Rained unbelievably hard in the night...definitely sounded like hail but Ferg is in dispute and we awoke to a clear morning...gets pretty damp and cold...nothing dries...so we were glad to see the sun. Especially after one of the coldest showers ever! The youngest girl in the family, Margarite, braided my hair in the traditional local style...two braids, we had fun...she was a sweet girl! After this it was time to load up the packs and make the long trek down to the docks...we enjoyed lunch of Trucha and Papas fritas with Arroz while we watched the locals finish their lunch break...the men all sitting together chewing coca leaves while the women sat together spinning wool. After siesta they all worked together to construct a new pier...was quite a site watching these women...of all ages...filling sacks with rocks and then carrying them out on the pier to dump them while the men mixed sand and concrete mix to seal them into position...hard workes to say the least! We relaxed on the beach until the boat departed at 4 and then 2 hours later we were back in Copacabana...more sun out on the water...poor, poor nose! Sun is so strong have been wearing a hat for 2 days! Caught the bus to La Paz at 6:30 and scored some delicious Empanads de Queso for the ride from local lady in the park, 4 hours later we arrived at the edge of the cliff. La Paz is situated as if in a fish bowl and the cliff drops away to the canyon below with the city spreading all the way up the edges...the lights were amazing and I'm glad Ferg woke me up to see this sight. We are staying at the Hostal Republica, 3 blocks from the historic heart of the city...it was once home to one of Bolivia's Presidents and the rooms surround 2 large courtyards and a garden...pretty cool spot to rest our heads. Ventured out this morning and are currently exploring the The Prado and Lower Sopocachi while attempting to cross a few items off of our list of things to do...this city has a great feel and today it is cool but not raining. Plan on staying here for another night before heading up North to see the Cordillera Real that has been teasing us with views of it's 6000m peaks...the rosy sun set over the snow capped peaks last night was beautiful on the drive in from Lake Titicaca. We think we will be visiting a place called Sorata for any of you following in the atlas...base camp for many expeditions into the mountains! Hoping to do some trekking and maybe bag a big peak! Was energizing to log on today and see so many people following our adventures...Thanks for all the positive energy, We Love it!

and by "crap" I did mean Fergus and the crab

Hey guys! The website is great. My favourite is the picture of Fergus and the crap. Nothing much is happening at STU. The talent show Ive been organizing goes up tomorrow night. Ferg, I think Im going tree planting next summer! Keep having fun. I cant wait to see you both.

What great pics. Really enjoying sharing each day with you both, each day is like a new chapter. Continue to have a great time and travel safe.

Hey Ferg, sounds like a blast. Sounds like ur covering lots of territory. Love the pics as well as the stories, keep'em coming.

Hi Ferg & Krista.

Just a quick note to say that we have enjoyed your "offexploring" website.
The pictures are amasing.
Also enjoyed both of your reporting of what you are doing and where you are heading.
Sounds like your having a wonderful time.

All the best and stay safe.

Michael & Carmel

Dear Fergus and Krista. Thanks for taking us on your fabulous trip with you. Its been quite a ride so far. I'm already looking forward to tomorrow! Love, J.A.

Hey Ferg and Krista,
Your trip sounds and looks amazing. Your in the land of the revolution Ferg.. VIVE CHE!!! Enjoy the rest of your trip..
All the Best,
Toni And Gordie

Day number two in Puno...had a great dinner last night at Uruku's just off of the Plaza des Armas and even got to bring our own bottle of Chilean red...shared a nice appetizer of marinated trucha on a skewer with veggies(super fresh lake trout) and really enjoyed the presentation and overall atmosphere of this little place. Ferg had a huge plate of staek and I tried the local specialty...Kingfish...neither one of us even came close to finishing our plates. Great Friday night and the streets were packed even in spite of the rain...sure is chilly up here though. Woke up this morning to more rain and were not too sure what the day would be like out on the 'Lake of the Gods'...Lake Titicaca is the largest Lake in South America...190km...and is shared by both Bolivia and Peru. It also wins as the world's highest navigable Lake and is about 283m deep with a water temperature of around 10 degrees despite the elevation...great for aquatic life. Mini bus picked us up and took us down to the wharf...was super cold...winter jacket weather...sitting in the back of open boat was hard way to wake up after not too much sleep. We headed out to the Islas Flotantes...craziest concept ever...they are floating islands comprised of layers and layers of reeds...an ancient tribe of people live here..the Orus...and have been doing it for thousands of years. The reeds are called Totoacas and are actually edible if you peel them like a banana...we gave them a try but they really do not taste like anything at all. They are used to make boats that look super cool...with animal figureheads...and are used by the people to move from island to island. We took a ride in one rowed by an island couple...visits to the islands by tourists are one of the ways that these people make a living and they transport you for a small fee. The islands themselves can last for 40 or 50 years...fresh layers of reeds are piled on 3 or 4 times a month...after that the island becomes too thick and heavy and will sink when the heavy rains come. They are very freaky to walk on...definitely takes some getting used to. We were able to see the local fish...talk about being close to the food supply...however, if a tourist was to eat the fish they would fall fast asleep after about 15 minutes...crazy chemical make up in the fish itself. We visited 2 islands and we bought a beautiful woven wall hanging of the most amazing and vibrant colors...feels good to know that the money goes directly to the artist herself instead of being filtered out at best through some store. By this time the sun was shining bright and the colors that Lake Titicaca is famous for were 380 degrees around us...beautiful blues that change in depth and color almost by the minute...wicked boat ride. Somehow too Ferg and I got dropped off on one floating Island to join another boat...our new boat was the cat's ass! Next it was a 2 hour and 40 minute ride out to the Isla Taquille...this place was truly magical. Only islanders live there and they almost always marry someone from the 6km long Island...no one else can live there unless they actually marry an Islander...the population is around 2000 and the people are very quite, soft spoken and shy. It has always been this way and the Island is steeped in tradition. They are famous for their textiles and work with alpacca fibers. Their work is highly respected and you meet them on the paths knitting and spinning fibers onto spools while they walk. You can tell a lot by what they knit...with well deserved pride...for themselves to wear. The men wear knitted hats that look like night caps...single men wear colors and white...married men wear red...and public authorities wear multi colored caps with pompom tassles that stand straight up. Little boys were the same as single men however, instead of wearing the tail to the side they wear it straight down their back. Women here have little social standing and do not even talk in the main square...at public meetings they sit either 3m in front of or behind their husbands...as a result they cover their heads frequently with a black square shawl with colored pom poms at all 4 corners. Young girls have large multi colored pom poms whereas older women exhibit smaller pompoms of less colors. Public authorities are elected for one year only and receive no pay...working only for the Island itself as a cooperative. The main square has a huge textile cooperative and on the first floor is all the knitted caps, vests, and belts that the men make...the skill level is considered to be the best in all of Peru...on the second floor is belts, coca leaf pouches and men's belts that the women make. Each family has a number and works at home...when you buy something the money is then given to the appropriate family. They take a lot of pride in their work and how they dress...the work is also practical though and men wear thick work belts that are made by the women with their hair woven right into the center of the belt itself. These are very stiff and protect the men while they carry heavy loads on their backs during their daily work...the women also weave beautiful colored belts that are frequently worn over top of the stiffer belt and these belts are so intricate that they take a month at least to make. The island has no noise, no lights, no police and very few animals...preferring instead to use the limited space for agriculture...it is the place anyone wanting to get away from it all would dream to live. The townsite is incredibly green and flowers are everywhere...the flower of the Inca is red and the most beautiful of all as it hangs like elongated bells from the tree branches. We had lunch with a local family...Quinoa soup that I would love to be able to get at home and then a second couse of fresh lake fish served with rice and papas frites. We finished with tea made from a local herb and listened to a local man play a small instrument like a guitar and a pan flute...what a treat. we had walked 45 minutes up the hill to the main square and now we went back to buy a couple of hats for ourselves...glad we had held out for the real deal...I think Ferg put a photo of us two tourists in the album...they are so soft and definitely an asset here at night! The return boat ride was warm and sunny and we spent the entire ride up on the roof...is neat to watch the locals fish and sit on the shores tending to their sheep. Was one of the best days ever...super red nose again and all!

Well the adventure continues...Peru has it all and the more we see the more I am amazed...what a beautiful and diverse country. After a night out in Cusco and a really delicious dinner we crashed early in an attempt to rest from the long bus ride and actually up wake for the alarm at 5:15. Ferg tried Alpacca tenderloin tonight and found it to be quite tasty...a lot like deer he said if he had to pick a close comparison. We slept pretty good despite the altitude but the night was short just the same...had a quick breakfast at the hostal and some more yummy Coca leaf tea...it sure cures what ails you...I love it! Caught the bus to the train and headed up over the hills of Cusco and into the country. The train leaves from a quaint little town...as many vendors here as at the bus stop in Cusco...selling everything you would need for a day at Manchu Picchu...especially rain ponchos and water! The train was about 2.5 hours and follows the raging Rio Urubamba...it is insane! Arrived in Las Callientes and soon boarded the bus to the Manchu Picchu site...Ferg definitely not a fan of organized tours and I soon was inclined to agree. We quickly lost our tour group and headed for Waynapicchu...reputed to be the hardest and most rewarding site to visit at Manchu Picchu. We headed across the main site and soon began climbing up through the mist...this place is ancient and you can definitely feel the energy of the land. The climb was challenging with huge rock steps and soon we had a good sweat going...as you climb and climb the view of the main site below gets better and better...we made it to the top under the estimated time so I felt pretty good about our accomplishment. Was funny to see our tour group far, far below...super glad we ventured out on our own. We spent a while on the summit, I saw the most beautiful colored hummingbirds I have ever seen! After a snack and some Agua con gas...carbonated water that you have to specify not to get absolutely everywhere down here...we started down to catch the last bus. Was great to be up here at this time of the day as there were virtually no tourists left...Manccu Picchu all to ourselves. Caught the bus down the switchback and one of the local boys raced us down...totally crazy! He was dressed in his colorful native attire and every time we met him at the crossing he would be there yelling and howling...must have been 12 at most! They race the bus down from the top and then climb on at the bridge to have thier photos taken and receive tokens from the passengers...hard way to make money if you ask me...check out the photo in the album of the road and you will see what I mean. We had a quick lunch before catching the train...they have what is called the Menu Typica almost everywhere here and essentially you get to pick a salad, a soup, a main couse, and fresh squeezed juice or dessert...all for 10 Soles...approximately 3.5 Soles = 1 US dollar...great deal and we ate every scrap. The train and bus to home rounded out our 9 hours of travel but it was definitely worth it. Hard to believe that Mannchu Picchu was only rediscovered in 1910 buried in the overgrowth of forest. One of the truly unique spots on the globe. In Cusco we had dinner at a place that brews it's own beer and some delicious home made pasta...this place was really cool atmosphere and a great end to the day. After a cup of Coca leaf tea I packed in order to buy a cpuople of more minutes sleep in the morning. Today we travelled 6.5 hours south to Puno...was a spectacular ride...this country just keeps getting more and more interesting...tonight we are staying right on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca. Looking forward to another early morning of adventure visiting the floating Islands...a village on the reeds. Can't wait! Miss everyone at home! XO Kris

Mdae it to Mucchu Picchu, it was pretty good, deinitly worth the trip, Kris and I hiked a big mountain behing the site, it was really quite breathtaking, The incas had style to build a city way up there in the mountains, Met some crazy old english guy who was on acid, tottal freak show, The city of Cusco is the biggest tourist trap in the world, Tons of tour groups, and Japanese with cameras, I´m Glad we´re going into Boliva, we can get away from all these people and out into the mountains, We´re in Puno Peru right now on the Bolivian border, on Lake titticacca, I love that name, it´s the highest navagatable lake in the world whatever that means,
Going to Floating village tommorrow, It´s a village on reeds that floats in the middle of the lake, and some island too, It´s a tour group thing so it should be pretty lame, I think I´ll bring some wine, Next day we´re off to Bolivia, Coppacabanna, then to an Island, Then back to Coppacabanna for A huge festival called the Virgien of la Candialara, it is one of the biggest parties of the year, On the last day, the bravest, stupidest, and drunkest guy jump into a big ring with 100 bulls and try not to get gored, Kris will try to stop me but she can´t, I´m unstoppable. Wes is coming down to meet us for Carnival, He´s a total Hero,, Keep it real Fergus