Hey Guys, hope everything is well. I wasn't sure what your site was so I googled it and found this one. The photos are amazing. I think I might try this site about my stay in fredericton. I could post photos of me taking the city bus to the mall, going to the market on saturday, going to Dolan's on Thursday, taking my dog to the park and maybe just getting a slice of pizza. All joking aside you both look like you're having the experience of a life time keep fit and have fun.

Ps: Krista, whose Fergus?

This afternoon we travelled through all three major areas of the city...the Zona Sur, Central La Paz, and then up out of the canyon to the flat Alto La Paz which has 1 million inhabitants of its own...predominantly immigrants from the countryside. Amazing views of the city from here. After that we travelled 1.5 hours to Chacaltaya...the World's highest developed ski area...although the word developed is used loosely. It is situated at an altitude of more than 5000m atop a dying glacier on the slopes of 5395m-high Cerro Chacaltaya. The steep piste runs from 5320m down to about 4900m and there is no bunny hill. We asked today and were told that no one has been able to ski here for almost 5 years.The improvement of the ski lift has been on Bolivia's agenda for almost as long as Club Andino has been in existance...built in 1940 it was South America's first ski lift...unfortunately, it hasn't changed much. An automobile engine in an aluminum hut turns a steel cable loop...super primitive by North American standards. The major problem is that global warming causes the glacier to receed 6-10m per year...the Ski club has been selling chunks of the glacier for years but cannot keep up with the advance and the ski hill is expected to completely disappear in 30 years. We arrived to clouds... but no snow and placing one foot after another we made it to the summit...Ferg had a bit of an altitude headache and the views of La Paz, Illimani, Mururata, and 6088 Huayna Potosi were obscured but the climb was still a success. Mate de Coca at the lodge cures all and soon we were back to Sunny La Paz. Tomorrow we head North to Madidi National Park in Rurrenabarque for 4 days in the jungle and touring in the Pampas...can't wait.

Up early and off exploring again...today we visited Valle de la Luna - Moon Valley. It really isn't a valley at all but a bizzare, eroded, hillside maze of canyons and pinnacles technically known as badlands. It lies past the trendy Zona Sur 10km down the canyon of the Rio Choqueyapu from the city center. The Rio Choke as it is known locally is all but lost! This fetid stream which provided the gold that gave La Paz its present location is now utterly dead and beyond help. According to one souce the river annually receives 500,000 tonnes of urine, 200,000 tonnes of human excrement and millions of tonnes of garbage, animal carcases and industrial toxins. The industrial toxins include cyanide from tanneries and a cocktail of chemicals and dyes from textile and paper industries, which cause the river to flow bright orange in places or red with a layer of white foam. Currently no laws exist for dumping into the river. The Choqueyapu flows underground through central La Paz, however, where it emerges in the Zona Sur locals manouver around heaped trash and animal carcases and unbelievably use the water for washing, cooking and drinking. Most people heat the water before drinking it but few boil it...even boiling it would not eliminate the chemical pollutants from industrial waste...the potential for health problems is staggering. the issue usually comes up at election time but funding has always affected implimentation. 1 in 10 children die before the age of 5 as a result of drinking contaminated water. Terrible sad statistics. Past the river and into the red mountains that characterize the Zona Sur lies the cactus gardens and Moon Valley itself...home to many species of cacti including the hallucinogenic 'choma' or San Pedro Cactus.

LA PAZ, Bolivia (AP) -- Bolivia's new President Evo Morales said multinational energy companies were conspiring against him and urged backers to take more political power in one of the harshest speeches he has made since taking office a little more than two weeks ago.

"Some multinationals already have conspiracies," Morales said Monday, according to La Prensa newspaper and other local news media. "We've had meetings with the top military leadership who have given us information on how they are preparing this."

Morales, who has pledged to bring government control over all levels of oil and gas exploitation, did not name any companies by name or give details as he spoke to rural union leaders.

The president called on Bolivia's social movements to mobilize to defend his government's plans to change energy contracts held by multinational companies in order to keep more of the profits in Bolivia.

Bolivia is one of South America's poorest countries, but it has the largest natural gas reserves after Venezuela.

Multinational companies have invested $3.5 billion in Bolivia.

Vice President Alvaro Garcia Linera, a former guerrilla, also spoke out against energy corporations at the event.

"It's necessary to mobilize against those who want to do us damage, because the petroleum companies, the gringos, are going to pressure us," Garcia Linera said.

The Death road lived up to the hype. Desending 3345 vertical feet over 68 km, was rad. The first part was pavment we reached speeds od 65 km per hour, the death road part was a dirt track barley wide enough for a single vehicle to pass, super steep tons of corners, we took it at about 40km per hour, I can´t imagine there is a better downhill moutain bike trip out there, this one was the real deal. Kris did well, no wipeouts, it was fairly dangerous, the drop was a couple thousand feet in most places, so one wrong move, blown tire, failed brake, etc, and it would have been all over. Our bikes were good Rockey Moutain models from Canada, pretty new with disk brakes the trip ended with 10 minitues of very steep single track down to a lodge by a river where we had a buffet lunch and a dip in the swimming pool, there were lots of animals there monkeeys etc. Tommorow it´s off to attemt ski the worlds highest ski hill, it´s about 5400 meters. Fergus

Just got back from the wickedest ride of my life...was SO MUCH FUN! Ferg and I left with 5 others today and the Downhill Mountain madness team at 8AM headed for Corioco to Mountain bike the world's most dangerous road...what a tremendous experience. We were lucky and not only did we have a small group of amazing people, but also a super sunny day...not one drop of rain. The guides said yesterday it rained the whole day...we biked for 68km over ashphalt and then dirt road before leaving the road altogether to travel one by one down a single track...almost 5 hours in total. We travelled at approximately 60 or 70 kms per hour on the pavement and 40 to 45km on the dirt road. The road itself is notorious for fatalities and just last week 30 unfortunate souls lost their lives in a bus accident...the route was littered with memorial carrions to lost ones as is common practice when someone loses their life in South America. We had just started to drive to the takeoff site when we passed an overturned tractor trailer. Despite how bad this all sounds our guides were true professionals and we really had a thrilling but safe ride...they were totally on top of bike maintenance and brakes were checked and adjusted at every check point stop. The road itself is spectacular...there are even locals who stand at the bad blind turns with red and green flags...not uncommon though to see car carcasses in the valley below...pretty crazy because you drive and pass on the left so sometimes you really have a view of the drop off...guard rails are non-existant...and rocks on the road and landslides are common. They told us to go around every corner expecting to meet a bus. We passed upwards of 50 waterfalls and many we actually passed directly underneath...refreshing! You were encouraged to not look at the scenery until stops and most of the time you had your eyes on the road eating dirt! Even with front suspension the vibrations were unbelievable! Did manage to see huge eagles and one magnificent condor though...pretty amazing birds. Over 80% of the ride was downhill...we were going so fast that no matter what gear you were in you could not get enough resistance to peddle forward faster...best kind of ride! At the end of the single track we arrived at the lodge and were treated to soap and a shower...we were all pretty wet and dirty from the water crossings...had to peddle like mad not to get bogged down! After a swim in the pool by the raging river you could check out the resident animals before a wicked meal and cold cervezas. The butterflies here were beautiful and every color of the rainbow...there were also 2 species of parrots, alpaccas, chickens, and monkeys to name a few...will not mention too much the 3 species of biting insects that plagued our dinner. Enjoyed great Bolivian coffee and then piled in the back of the Toyota Landcruiser for a chance to do the death road by another mode of transportation...really got to look around this time. This experience has definitely been one of the highlights of the entire trip...it was such a rush and really got the adrenaline pumping. Would do it again in a second! Arrived back in La Paz around 6:30 and although sore from the last few days activities I am on top of the world. Tomorrow we are leaving early in the morning to visit Moon Valley and then on the the World's highest Ski Hill at 5400mplus...hoping to climb to the top and see the city...fingers crossed for no clouds. Fabulous day!

dear krista
its so nice to see that you are a real person i really thought you were a phantom fergus proved me wrong by putting your lovely picture on the site when you guys finish galavanting it would be awfully nice to meet you well you two have a wonderful time and i am sure you will enjoy yourselves grampy jim

Well managed to get all ends tied up in La Paz and celebrated with a well deserved night on the town...went to Cafe Sol et Luna and were treated to some awesome music by a local band...they were great and even did some Santana cover tunes - we had a great night but drinking at this altitude definitely comes with a bonafide hangover. Despite all the water consumed during yet another virtually sleepless night...hard time catching Z's in La Paz...we were both pretty rough in the morning...walked down to Cafe Le Terraza for another yummy breakfast with real coffee...not instant...and then took way longer than usual to pack and head to the Cemetary district to catch the bus to Sorata. All the buses are converted school buses and they are pretty funky to say the least...this bus was all locals...even dogs too...and packs go on the roof! Wondered at first why there were metal bars soddered to the backs of the seats but after we climbed out of the canyon that the city sits in we soon found out. Most of the road was not paved and what a ride...the route really takes a beating here during the rainy season...5 hours to Sorata up North past Lake Titicaca if there are no problems...literally had to hold on to stay in your seat...felt bad for the people piled into the aisles. The road was pretty good on the way there and we only got stopped 2 times...all switchbacks into the townsite though and a lot of honking going around corners because there definitely was only room for one vehicle wide. We were met at the bus by a local guy - Luis - who had just built and opened a new hostal so after Ferg checked the spot out we decided to stay there. It had the best view of snowcapped Illampu, 6362m & Ancohuma, 5427m... and the town square (Plaza General Enrique Penararanda) with its towering date palms...we had a 20 X 30 balcony all to ourselves on the top level...NICE! Went down to the square to one of the Italian joints and had some great pizza and Mexican food...love the avacadoes down here...have become Guac fiend! On the way back we hooked up with Ignacio a Chilean dude also staying at our Hostal...he had talked to some local guides/boys who were willing to take us up the route to Laguna Glacial...an ambitious climb that lies on the El Camino del Oro trek...an ancient trading route between the Altiplano and the Rio Tipuani gold fields. Sorata itself is perched on a hillside in a valley and is a crumbling colonial gem that lies well off the gringo tourist routes...especially this time of year as the peak climbing season here is August to September. Interesting history point...Sorata in 1791, was the site of a distinctly unorthodox seige by indigineous leader Andres Tupac Amaru and his 16,000 soldiers. They constructed dikes above the town, and when these had filled with runoff from the slopes of Illampu, they opened the floodgates and the town was washed away...talk about a tactical manouver. We decided to join our new Chilean friend and after checking the facts consumed more carbohydrates and packed our gear before heading off to sleep. In the morning after yummy Coca leaf tea and breakfast we hooked up with the guides and Ignacio and went off to rent tents, a stove and sleeping rolls to camp above the clouds. Grabbed some fuel and food and stored our extra gear and then began the steep climb up out of the townsite...it was literally uphill all the way from our doorstep...nice hot sunny day though and it wasn't long before pant legs were rolled up and layers peeled off. Have done some hiking relatively high in the Canadian Rockies but I can honestly say that this day was one of the most mentally and physically challenging I have ever experienced...the climbing was so steep and there were really no places where it evened out or even approached what you would call a downhill...unbelievable scenery though every step of the way. You know you are tired though when you are stepping in numerous types of animal feces and don't even care...nice to eat as much chocolate as you want though! With heavy packs the last third of the climb was pretty demanding...extra points to Ferg as he definitely had the heaviest load...cans and all! By the end of the day I was literally taking 6 or 8 steps and then stopping to regroup...love the mental challege though of being alone with your own body & mind and knowing that only you can get yourself to the top. Saw many sheep and some flowers I have never laid eyes on before but not too many people...best part was when super tired and suddenly a sheep herder was playing the flute from one of the nearby mountain tops...was invigorating and somehow perfect. We arrived at the Laguna Challata after six and a half hours of climbing...a height of 4400m...Thanks Wes for the GPS! This is where we would camp for the night as the area above was too steep to set up tents! We had about 1.5 hours before the sun disappeared so we gathered water from the Lagoon and started to prepare pasta for dinner. Water really takes a long time to boil at this altitude...gave us time to get out of wet clothes, set up the tents, and prepare for the night...was really pretty cold already. We had a pot and 5 spoons...finally got to use my spork and we enjoyed tomato sauce with onions, cheese, and hot peppers...oops not green peppers! Ferg and I ate out of the pot lid and the boys huddled around the pot itself...tasted pretty damn good! Climbed in the tent at dark around 8pm and played crazy eights. Hard to sleep despite the level of fatigue...set the alarm for 5:30 and reasted as best as the cold hard ground would allow...Ferg and I and our packs were squeezed into a little 2man...Ignacio, Rodriguez and Hernando were on the only other possible tent patch 7 feet away. Around 4:30 it started to pour and not long after it was also raining in the tent...Ferg's sleeping bag was soaked all the way through and the tent floor was also leaking from the bottom up. I was huddled on a dry patch on my sleeping pad about 3 feet wide with Ferg's only dry pants right in my bag with me...tricky perdicament. Waited until 9:00 for the rain to let up and played crazy 8's until the cards got soggy...was raining lightly and ran room service of bread and chocolate next door when nature called and forced us outside. Packed up the tents and gear and waited to see if it would clearas it was still raining lightly...we were about 1.5 hours and 600 vertical feet from the Laguna Glacial @ 5100m. The thunder clouds sealed our fate when suddenly they rooled in again... in seconds and completely blocked of the view of Illampu which had been mostly obscured and teasing us since we had ventured outside...the guides were not up for going at all as the route would be wet and the weather uncertain...there was a tonne of lightening in the night. At this point we were forced to turn around and we started the decent. I thought the way up was killer...and going down I could not believe how much we had climbed the day before...funny how the mind works in different circumstances...however, going down was a different kind of challenge. The route was difficult because the path was vague and covered with loose rocks of varying sizes...footing was difficult and the rain only made the situation worse. In addition the steepness of the slope made it hard to get stopped once you and the combined weight of your pack got moving...different muscles entirely were screaming! Really wished that had not been so tired the day before and had taken more photos as today everything was obscured by the clouds. Today, however, we met all of the locals bringing their herds up to the high slpoes to feed...my favorite kind of traffic...silent horns and all! We maintained a great pace and had no trouble at the river crossings despite the elevated water levels...guess you have to look at the whole thing as a great success considering the quality of the experience and the combination of the time of year. Really no one in the area even goes up this high during the rainy season and we had a beautiful 10 hour window of sunlight and incredible views! Crazy 24 hours just the same before we arrived back in town. When we got back to the hostal we expected to find Luis who would let us into the gear storage room so we could get out of our wet clothes and get cleaned up...he was no where to be found! After 2 hours we gave up and went down to the square...apparently going barefoot around here is somewhat of an oddity I soon found out! With full bellies we went on a more intensified search for Luis...Ignacio found him with the local police trying to settle a dispute over 100$ payment for a beer he had just consumed and the change he allegedly did not receive. Forgot entirely that Sunday was the last day of the Festival de la Candellarria...Bolivias's biggest celebration...everyone...even the older ladies wer dancing in the streets and drinking beer. Luis was hammered to the point of staggering and it was 4 in the afternoon...the boys forgot their irritation (been there maybe???) and soon Luis was crying and telling us all that he was a good guy....definitely no hard feelings and soon we were all laughing at the situation...except Luis! Got into our room and rescued our packs from the roof before saying bye to Ignacio who was catching the last bus out of town...really cool cat to spend time with. Unfortunately, hard straw beds were not much better than the tent floor and after some sleep we woke to the pouring rain again...caught the 9 am bus and started up the switchbacks to La Paz. They say road delays are part of the travel experience in Bolivia and we are definitely getting experienced...mudslide today forced the bus to halt for half hour to 45 minutes on the edge of the narrow road...not even the sheep could get past and they ravaged the bushes beside the bus before we all got moving...another 30 m then to a full stop again...eventually we arrived in La Paz...wet packs from the roof of the bus and all. Would not trade a minute of our adventures to Sorata though...glad we ventured off the beaten track! Back in La Paz and ready for huge 30km mountain bike ride up North to Corico...better get some sleep!

On thursday we are flying to Rurrembarque to do a pampas tour, there will be monkeys. The Pampas region is characterized by plains and low vegetation. The main attraction is the Yacuma river where one can see yacarés (a local variety of alligator), batos, american ostriches, pink dolphins, capybaras and turtles. The tour operater said we could swim with the dolphins, and fish for Phirana, I´m going to fish for Dolphins.

Pampas Tour (Package) Caracoles Lodge. This tour combines with Chalalan or Mapajos
Day 1. Arrival by plane in Rurrenabaque. Following the road to Reyes and Santa Rosa you arrive at the Caracoles Inn on the banks of the river Yacuma. In the afternoon you will be able to enjoy the diverse fauna, birds, butterflies, the famous river pink dolphins and the Yacares.
Day 2. Hike through the Grasslands ( Pampas ) to see the Anacondas. The vegetation here is home to capibaras, wild pigs, tapirs, frogs and crocodiles.
Day 3. Travel by canoe along the River Yacuma to observe the wide variety of monkey species such as Hooded Monkeys, Spider Monkeys and Howler Monkeys.
Return to Rurrenabaque after lunch.

On wednesday we are going here
Chacaltaya - Worlds Highest Ski Slope
Daily from La Paz
Half day

Drive out of La Paz, following the road that climbs into the Cordillera Real, past flocks of sheep and llamas, to reach the upper slopes of mount Chacaltaya, which hosts the worlds highest ski lodge. We dont advise you to ski - there is usually not enough snow nowadays - but the views from here of the snow-capped Andes and the altiplano below are literally breathtaking. (The last few kms of the road to the top are in very poor condition.)

We are biking the death road tommorrw (also known as the worlds most dangerous road)
We are going with a company called Downhill maddness
Check out thier web site at www.downhill-madness.com

LA CUMBRE-COROICO
1 DAY
This breathtaking downhill mountain-bike ride is notorious. The road is better known as The Death Road or The Worlds most dangerous road due to the fact that many accidents happen there. We start in La Cumbre, a high Andes pass at an altitude of 4670 meters where we will get a safety talk and get ready to go. The first part of the trip is on a smoothly paved road in which we can go as fast as 60 kph while enjoying the Andes peaks around us. Later on we will get to a drug checkpoint called Unduavi and will face a 4 km. uphill part, anyone can get in the support vehicle if necessary to skip this part. Estimated duration of tour
11 hours
Estimated duration of bike ride 5 hours
Percentage of Downhill 80 %
Distance 64 km
Level of difficulty Intermediate/Experienced
Group size 5 to 30

After the uphill theres a junction called Chuspipata where the road changes into a narrow dirt road that is rocky at some points and goes through a thick forest with dramatic 1000m drops off the side, we will take this road. Do not worry about safety though since we stop in the most dangerous curves and there is a guide every 5 people, everyone is taken care of. On the way we will get to see waterfalls and some streams have to be crossed. We are also able to listen to wildlife and do sightseeing on the amazing scenery. The best thing to do in this part is to enjoy and take as many pictures as possible.
You end the trip in the village of Yolosa where you will do a 10 minute single track headed to a beautiful Eco lodge called La Senda Verde. You will have first class service there and you can also get in touch with the nature because of the animals that live there. After that, we will head to Coroico, a nice and quiet town where you may want to stay.

Dear Petit YaYa and Fergus

Your pictures are beautiful and because your pictures are so beautiful, your mother has not lost her mind.....It looks like you guys are having a great time. Tonight is YaYa night and your mother has finished her prescription pills so tonight she is having a beer or maybe two, what do you think.

Enjoy your holidays and have lots of fun.

Love Judy one of the famous YaYa