Hi there all Firstly, apologies if you've received this twice, K and I combined names but didn't have time to edit them! We're both safely in Cambodia, and have been in Siem Riep for the past 4 days. The Fear Factor Road From Hell journey in was only the start of what's proved hard touring, both emotionally and organisationally. Tourism in Cambodia after the horrors of 20 years of genocide under the Khmer Rouge (we're learning every day here just how evil and cruel a people can be to its own - unfortunately there are Holocausts everywhere) is in its infancy, which makes for some interesting and frustrating experiences. The reasdon most come to Siem Riep is to go visit the awe-inspiring and magificent Angkor Temple complexes (for mental picture see Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom or Tombraider) which are truly a wonder of mankind, but all around it is hardship and poverty. For the 1st time we're understanding what visitors to South Africa must feel like when they drive past or through Black townships and squatter camps on their way into gorgeous beaches in Cape Town or the huge fortressed houses and high rise shopping centres in Johannesburg. Just a little ouside the main town are wooden houses on stilts built into the river, thatched with bamboo and palm leaves, with rice paddies and waterbuffalo grazing. Beautiful, but the catch is also that over the past few years more than 1 MILLION landmines have been cleared from these same areas, all laid during the war. 2 or 3 people every day are killed by unexploded landmines here. We've tried to mix up the heights and glories of these massive temple complexes (the most exciting ones to us being those where Nature and the jungle have taken hold again over the past 1000 years, massive roots of trees working their way into the masonry and slowly slowly pushing it apart until collapse of huge sections. Who has the Power?) with "authentic" Cambodia, everyone hustling for one dollar, rural tranquility and horrible history. We head to Phnom Penh, the capitol city tomorrow - who knows what awaits! Hope this finds you all well, please keep checking our website for updates, and if you want to email us you can still use gmail or the website, whichever is easiest. Big love KnD

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www.offexploring.com/knd