Today we go rafting around Yangshuo. The rafts are monopolised by a short and fat man who won't be shifted on his price. His phone goes off during negotiations - it is gold plated. On seeing this we silently admit defeat and pay the price demanded. He barks orders at one of the raft men. Farmers guide their oxen across the shallow river and some locals swim from one side to the other. It is a peaceful ride down the calm river, interrupted only by a brief water gun battle between the rival boats - James' and mine and Stephen's. The war is cut short as the cheap water guns break pretty quickly. There is the occasional mini waterfall to negotiate too. Mine and Stephen's craft is naturally a little heavier and we get wet bottoms on occasion as the raft sinks deep below the water as it crashes down the falls.

At the end of the tour we take a look at the Big Banyan Tree - which leads little further description other than to say its shade covers one thousand square metres. The fifteen hundred year old tree is planted near a museum which can best be described as exhibiting 'rocks that look like stuff.'

Yangshuo Bus Station, located opposite the 'Fawlty Towers Hotel' (no joke), is the last we see of the town as we take a coach back to Guilin. In the evening we go back to the same 'pick your own' restaurant opting this time for the duck. The waiter/butcher is much more subtle this time and within fifteen minutes we have a platter of duck and duck's head soup (which fortunately tastes more of ginger than duck's head).

The main landmarks of Guilin are two large pagodas erected along the river bank. They reflect well into the river making for distinctive photo opportunity. Opposite our hotel yet more open air dancing is going as dozens of elderly women dance the night away