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An early start: an alarm that didn't go off, and Miguel wakes us for the rush to the bus.
Luggage goes on top (will we ever see it again?) and we go for a 7 hour journey.
The roads out of Kathmandu are incredibly crowded, noisy and dusty. Our bus labours along through a slow moving stream of brightly decorated lorries, belching fumes, motorbikes with 2,3,4 or even 5 passengers, street sellers, and pedestrians.
It's slow progress, along main roads which vary from good (tarmac) to dirt with huge potholes. We have seats at the front, and feel good! The bus stops: 'wee stop here' shouts the driver. The men disembark and line up; the women run around on the verges trying to find a discreet area- difficult with a constant stream of traffic and a rather large drop off the side of the road. A further stop sees lunch provided (dahl baht of course) in a roadside cafe. It's good and cheap!
Dumre, a small town some 5 hours into the journey marks a change. The bus turns 'local' and from here, as we meander through ever deeper valleys, stops frequently, picking up a stream of locals heading home from the festival. In an hour, the seats are full, the aisles are packed, and I have a baby (who promptly goes to sleep). It's hot. We survive, arriving at Besisahar for the start of the Annapurna circuit.
We register at the ACAS office, and the 7 of us head for Bhulbhule. The pace is fast (too fast) as we wonder if accommodation will be available. Humidity and temperature are high.
Two and a half sweaty hours later, we find rooms for 200NR (£1.60) ......it's begun.
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