Hello

Well here we are in China once again and let me tell you its quite a contrast from the well organised pristine Japan and the ultra modern and fun Hong Kong.It's really hard to get used to China as it's a full assault on the senses.When we first arrived in Guangzhou it was really hot and muggy and the pollution was making my eyes sting and it was hard to breathe.The city just seemed huge and dirty and overwhelming.

We then discovered the little back street markets full of dried seahorses and caterpillars, live scorpions, tropical fish, kittens, puppies, bunnies, chickens and I forgot all about the bad things and kept looking for more cool stuff to discover.We spent a couple of days there, then took an overnight train to Guilin.

Taking a train in China (which we have done many times but you forget how odd it can be) is always an adventure.For a start they changed the platform it departed from so a whole load of waiting passengers got shifted by a small woman with a Loudspeaker barking instructions at us in Chinese like there was a national emergency rather than a simple change of plan.We all rushed off in a group which was good as Brian and I would have had no hope finding the new platform as Chinese writing looks like space invaders to us.

Once on the train it left 5 mins early (nice to be prompt but what of the inevitable late runner??).We had quite a pleasant journey overnight - we had a bit of "eye rolling" between us as we dealt with the "cultural immersion" side of things - burping, noodle slurping, gas (!), need I say more.All this gets to you, then the locals will give you a big smile and say "Huh-ro" and you just crack up and put your 'western" standards aside and get on with life on a train.

Once in Guilin we took a bus to Yangshuo (1 hr) and arrived in this picturesque town that has changed so much since we visited it 12 years ago, but still retains its old world charm.It's the rainy season here so not so many backpackers about but there are many Chinese tourists which means the main streets team at night with activity and it's a really nice lively place to be.Western appetites are well catered for here so we have been enjoying pizza and veggie burgers and also some great chinese noodle soups stuffed with veggies.We found an Indian restaurant the other night run by a man from Darjeeling (who boarded a bus bound for Ealing Greg….).He makes the best curries complete with Naan and raita and we are in heaven!!!!

On a more domestic note, its been raining here for 5 days and is extremely muggy.I washed a pair of socks and it took 48 hours for them to dry!!!!!!!!!Things just hang about smelling weird so in the end we visited a Chinese Laundry (which it has to be said - is the ultimate cliché!).They did a sterling job of washing and drying our clothes and now we are sweet smelling again all for $3!

We are sticking around here for a while -we are passing some time here in southern China while waiting for our friends Barry and Nok to arrive in Chengdu later on in July.Once we all meet up, we're heading off to the Tibetan regions where the real adventure will begin.We can't wait to get back into that region.We have heard that Yushu has just begun allowing foreigners back into its town this week after the earthquake in April so we are lucky that we can visit the families we know there without violating our visa conditions!Accommodation still looks like it is in tents but we shall go prepared for this - a spot of camping on the Tibetan Plateau sounds like awesome fun.The reality of course might be rather challenging.Watch this spot!

By the way, Facebook is banned here so if you send me a message on Facebook it comes to our hotmail address but I cannot reply.Censorship is alive and well.

Right, that's enough from me today - check out the photos to see what we have been up to - due to the constraints of constant rain its all about the dining out.If we get some good weather we have some bike riding around the countryside planned.

Lots of love (and send us some sunshine!)

Kerry and Brian

xx