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Kevin and Joannie on tour
Today after breakfast (which is available until 11 am...bliss!), we set up the Carretera Cobre (named because of its winding path).
The weather was clear, unlike some days so far when there has been a fog that rises around eleven. The road was paved and not very busy. It wasn't long before we came to the entrance to the big Codelco copper mine at which point we had to turn off onto smaller roads.
We turned off to the Reserva Nacional Rio de los Cipreses, passed the Termas de Cauquenes and not much later the road turned into "ripio", a gravel track, that led over a steep hill, finally dropping down into a green valley where there was some subsistence farming, with ramshackle houses hosting a few sheep, a cow, hens and hordes of dogs.
Though there are easy walking paths within the Reserva, there wasn't a map available at the entrance. We went to the Camping "Ranchillo" where you have to park your car and ate a picnic at one of the many shaded benches there.
Afterwards we went on a dusty trail that led up the valley of the River Cachapoal. Unfortunately the path was some 26 km long and requires an overnight stay in a basic refugio if you want to do the whole thing. So we missed out on all the flora and fauna, hanging glaciers and volcanic views :-( But at Mirador La Guardia we got some great views.
The sun was high and the walking was hot. We came across a group of chaps refuelling a big machine that scraped the stony ground to make the track. They commented on the heat.
We had walked a considerable distance but the scenery wasn't changing so decided to head back. The big machine had moved on and there was only one chap sat in his 4WD, music blasting out. Eventually he overtook us in a dust cloud. However a few minutes later he reversed back, offered us a lift and explained we would have to stay behind the scraping machine. He spoke very fast but we learned that he lived in the Araucania region, thought life was expensive and couldn't quite get that we were travelling alone and not on a package.
He dropped us off at our truck and we were grateful as the walk back was only covering old ground.
We headed down to the Termas de Cauquenes. We like volcanic spas but these were very different. Once we paid (about £4 each) you were led into a vast hall with private baths either side. A women ran your bath or "tina", gave you a towel and closed the door. The baths were deep and made out of carrera marble. Surprisingly we were the only ones there, given that these are the most famous in Chile. One could imagine Victorian Generals and women in crinolines coming to take the waters. Allegedly Bernardo O'Higgins stayed here as did Charles Darwin.
Afterward there was an old veranda with sunbeds to relax on. In the background there was the noise of a waterfall and in the distance we could see an old rickety rope bridge.
Making our way back to Rancagua, we passed again the gates to the Codelco compound and it must have been shift change. Tens off buses were streaming out and heading down onto the Centrale Valley plane and tens more were heading uphill. The coaches overtook us, eager to get home.
Back at the Hotel, the waiter told us before we even sat down that they had Carmenere wine and fettucini, so dinner was sorted.
We had changed our plans so we can visit the deserted mine of Sewell, near the El Teniente mine. Trips only run at weekends so we have extended our stay here by one night.
The weather was clear, unlike some days so far when there has been a fog that rises around eleven. The road was paved and not very busy. It wasn't long before we came to the entrance to the big Codelco copper mine at which point we had to turn off onto smaller roads.
We turned off to the Reserva Nacional Rio de los Cipreses, passed the Termas de Cauquenes and not much later the road turned into "ripio", a gravel track, that led over a steep hill, finally dropping down into a green valley where there was some subsistence farming, with ramshackle houses hosting a few sheep, a cow, hens and hordes of dogs.
Though there are easy walking paths within the Reserva, there wasn't a map available at the entrance. We went to the Camping "Ranchillo" where you have to park your car and ate a picnic at one of the many shaded benches there.
Afterwards we went on a dusty trail that led up the valley of the River Cachapoal. Unfortunately the path was some 26 km long and requires an overnight stay in a basic refugio if you want to do the whole thing. So we missed out on all the flora and fauna, hanging glaciers and volcanic views :-( But at Mirador La Guardia we got some great views.
The sun was high and the walking was hot. We came across a group of chaps refuelling a big machine that scraped the stony ground to make the track. They commented on the heat.
We had walked a considerable distance but the scenery wasn't changing so decided to head back. The big machine had moved on and there was only one chap sat in his 4WD, music blasting out. Eventually he overtook us in a dust cloud. However a few minutes later he reversed back, offered us a lift and explained we would have to stay behind the scraping machine. He spoke very fast but we learned that he lived in the Araucania region, thought life was expensive and couldn't quite get that we were travelling alone and not on a package.
He dropped us off at our truck and we were grateful as the walk back was only covering old ground.
We headed down to the Termas de Cauquenes. We like volcanic spas but these were very different. Once we paid (about £4 each) you were led into a vast hall with private baths either side. A women ran your bath or "tina", gave you a towel and closed the door. The baths were deep and made out of carrera marble. Surprisingly we were the only ones there, given that these are the most famous in Chile. One could imagine Victorian Generals and women in crinolines coming to take the waters. Allegedly Bernardo O'Higgins stayed here as did Charles Darwin.
Afterward there was an old veranda with sunbeds to relax on. In the background there was the noise of a waterfall and in the distance we could see an old rickety rope bridge.
Making our way back to Rancagua, we passed again the gates to the Codelco compound and it must have been shift change. Tens off buses were streaming out and heading down onto the Centrale Valley plane and tens more were heading uphill. The coaches overtook us, eager to get home.
Back at the Hotel, the waiter told us before we even sat down that they had Carmenere wine and fettucini, so dinner was sorted.
We had changed our plans so we can visit the deserted mine of Sewell, near the El Teniente mine. Trips only run at weekends so we have extended our stay here by one night.
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