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Day 52: Point Turton to Port Broughton. . . Sunday 16th December
Breakfast quite early this morning and off in the van, plenty of sun to enjoy and made our way along the other side of the peninsula to Port Victoria and Moonta Bay. Both these bays were lovely with cream sand that went on forever. For hundreds of metres the sea was very shallow, crystal clear and warm ideal for young children to play in, then it dropped suddenly to give a beautiful blue colour . . . it always looks different when the sun shines. We couldn't resist and decided to have a walk along the foreshore just paddling our feet in the warm water and looking at the houses that were built along the cliff tops . . . they have such wonderful views out to sea. We met a young couple from Adelaide whose father had just bought a house at Moonta Bay and they said that the large houses cost around $5-600,000 roughly £300,000. Sounds great but if you could see how far you have to travel to get there or anywhere else for that matter, you would seriously have to think about it. The countryside within the Peninsula is not very inspiring to us although some people would love it but it's all a matter of individual taste, and when you do get to a town there are very few shops and they look like something from a western movie, you quite expect to see horses tied up to the holding rail rather than cars parked. The roads are very straight and extremely long, saying that their condition is terrific . . . your whole perception has to change in Southern Australia. Found a good site with internet access at Port Broughton and updated the web site didn't do a lot else as we had chalked down a lot of miles for the day.
Day 53: Port Broughton to Cowell . . . Monday 17th December
It's your Birthday . . . it's your Birthday . . . and where are all my presents???? I had a good day with Keith cooking breakfast, as usual, and a lovely dinner tonight with home-made birthday card. Yesterday we were contemplating taking the Ferry from Wallaroo to Lucky Bay (The Eyre Peninsula) but whilst finding out the cost some $210 we decided to drive round it instead which we did today. Drove through to Port Pirie and then to Port Augusta where once again we needed supplies or should I say to replenish the stock of "rocky-road-cake." From early on the scenery changed and there were a range of high hills all around us and in some cases very spectacular (Mount Remarkable National Park) we then moved onto Whyalla and on down to Cowell not a lot of bays or ports to call into along this stretch of roadway. Keith found a turn-off for Lucky Bay where the Ferry would have docked, if we took it, and a sign for a campsite. At first it was a made-up road and then it turned into a dirt track for a few miles and then the contractors where building it as we went (see pics) it ended up taking us to Lucky Bay well that's debatable there was a broken down wooden sigh saying Shacks Nos 22 - 124 and a group of galvanised sheds in various states of disrepair, but all had "Sea Views" another one of those Deliverance Towns. No way out except the dirt road again . . . at last found Cowell but decided that Arno Bay was nicer and that is where we are celebrating 'yours trulys' birthday.' Tried to phone home but no signal down here except for emergency!
Day 54: Arno Bay to Coffin Bay . . . Tuesday 18th December
Once again on the Lincoln Highway heading towards Port Lincoln, a very large town with good shops and restaurants with nice seafront area getting ready for a carol service that evening. We took off to have a look at the new development built around the harbour . . . see what you think! It was still quite early so we hit the road to Coffin Bay and we knew we had made the right decision when we pulled into the lookout point, it was beautiful. We found the one and only site and then took a stroll around the bay, well part of it anyway. There was a designated pathway called the oyster walk and we stayed with it for about 2K, found a great spot on the beach and had a paddle, thought we would do the rest tomorrow. There were oyster beds out to sea and the area was reknowned for it's famous oysters, exporting them all over the world. The middle of the Eyre Peninsula suffers very bad drought conditions but the coastal regions, especially the campsites still have enough water for the grass and washing of cars . . . something we found quite extraordinary. Our usual nighty visitors arrived namely the Kangaroos and you could hear them jumping around the van.
Day 55: Coffin Bay (stayed put) . . . Wednesday 19th December
Most people cleared out of the site early today so we practically had it to ourselves, decided to get a local map and continue with the oyster walk. The area up from the beach around the campsite was scrubland with red soil it was an extremely hot day and within a few hundred yards we were sweating, then an Emu appeared and was totally oblivious to us, it's the first one we have seen over here but it was really hard work getting a photo. The walk took us around the hills of Coffin Bay and then back into the bay and through to the other side along the coastal route. The total route covers 13K and we found a great inlet with nobody there and had a swim in the shallows, the sea was warm, or we were very warm. Spent several hours there and then mooched back. Land being sold off all over the bay and houses also . . . quite lovely (see pics). There is plenty of action happening on the water with boats heading out to fish around the islands, dolphin and seal watching and boats being refurbished along the foreshore. The local school kids dive off the jetty or the bathing platforms and most of them seem to enjoy the fishing. Whilst we were getting ready to have a meal at the yacht Club, sounds very expensive but it's run by volunteers and most evenings they produce a two course meal for roughly £17 which included coffee and drinks (for both of us!) They all take turns . . . one day it's the bowling Club, the local RSL and then the yacht Club. I digress, what I was trying to say was we met a couple called Sam and Phyl who had been travelling Oz for the last six years and we spent an enjoyable hour or so talking to them, mostly they were giving us some valuable advice on the Nullabor, where we should be stopping, staying and getting supplies and fuel. Keith was very fortunate during the evening someone slipped into his sleeping bag with him for a little surprise. It must have been around 12.30 a.m and Keith was turning the lights on and hitting the sleeping bag, my response was to put my sleeping bag over my head to which I got a smack round the head and Keith scooping something off and throwing it across the van. Keith's words "it was a bloody big spider crawling across my back."
Day 56: Coffin Bay to Elliston (140K) . . . 20th December
Unfortunately, we still haven't found it so he could be having company again tonight . . . lucky thing!!!!!
Said cheerio to Sam and Phyl, they were going on a boat trip around Coffin Bay and we headed off to the Flinders Highway on route for Elliston taking a look at Mt Dutton Bay on the way. Miles and miles with very few inhabitants along the way. How the pioneers managed to cover these vast distances is beyond belief, especially with the transport available i.e, horse and cart and the extreme heat. But manage they must have grinding out a living from the production of salt, grain, gypsum, minerals etc and then transporting it to the Ports for transportation. You realise how hard it must have been especially if you follow the historic ship wreck trail, so many were lost to poor navigation. The invention of motorised vehicles and rail opened the country completely up. (Sorry about the history lesson). Got a few supplies from the local Supermarket. . . well sort of, found a great family site and then went on the Elliston Great Ocean Tourist Drive, yes really!!!! It turned out to be a wonderful experience across the cliffs of Elliston with absolutely no one around. The views were outstanding and the whole route had been laid out so well with sculptures along the cliff tops and pull-ins so you could stay there as long as you liked just enjoying the coastal views of Salmon Point, Blackfellows and Anxious Bay (see pics). Cannot believe more hasn't been made of this place it's a lost paradise and really worth a visit.
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